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Happy with them Mark?

I’m 8 weeks from having to make a decision on our windows and doors for our MBC passive frame. I hope to get passive certification so performance is important. Rationel, VELFAC and Nordan are keenly priced but I think the single weather seal they offer might be a problem longer term. Nordan have good performance data. Internorm are top quality but don’t do outward opening French doors which is a problem as we have two. Norrsken are similarly priced but I haven’t seen they can meet Part Q yet. I have a few more interesting options on the go but don’t have a price to compare with yet. Then there’s installation and warranty questions. It’s a minefield!

Nice saving and a great hourly rate😊 What timber did you use?

Thought I'd ask ChatPGT A clicking noise coming from your Underfloor Heating (UFH) actuator can be concerning and may indicate an issue that needs attention. The actuator is a critical component in a UFH system, controlling the flow of hot water by opening and closing valves based on signals from the thermostat. Here are some reasons why your UFH actuator might be clicking and what you can do about it. Possible Reasons for the Clicking Noise 1. Normal Operation Sounds: • Valve Movement: Some clicking is normal as the actuator opens or closes the valve. This sound is usually soft and infrequent. • Design Characteristics: Certain actuator models are inherently noisier due to their mechanical design. 2. Frequent Opening and Closing (Short Cycling): • Thermostat Settings: If the thermostat is set with a narrow temperature differential, the system may turn on and off rapidly. • Room Temperature Fluctuations: Drafts or external heat sources can cause the thermostat to activate the actuator frequently. 3. Faulty Actuator: • Mechanical Failure: Worn-out gears or components inside the actuator can produce a clicking sound. • Stuck Valve: If the valve is sticking, the actuator might struggle to move it, resulting in repeated clicking. 4. Electrical Issues: • Power Supply Fluctuations: Inconsistent voltage can cause the actuator to malfunction. • Wiring Problems: Loose or damaged wires might lead to intermittent signals, causing the actuator to click. 5. Loose Mounting or Components: • Vibration: An improperly secured actuator can vibrate or move, amplifying operational noises. • Loose Valve Linkage: The connection between the actuator and the valve might be loose. 6. Air in the System: • Air Locks: Trapped air can cause uneven water flow and noises resembling clicking. • System Bleeding Needed: Releasing the air can resolve the issue. 7. Thermostat Issues: • Faulty Thermostat: Sending incorrect signals to the actuator. • Battery Low: In wireless thermostats, low batteries can cause erratic behavior. Troubleshooting Steps 1. Observe the Pattern: • Timing: Note when the clicking occurs—constantly, intermittently, or only when the system starts or stops. • Correlation: See if the noise coincides with temperature changes or thermostat adjustments. 2. Check the Thermostat Settings: • Temperature Differential: Adjust the settings to prevent rapid cycling. • Location: Ensure the thermostat is not exposed to drafts or direct sunlight. 3. Inspect the Actuator: • Visual Inspection: Look for any visible damage or loose parts. • Mounting: Ensure the actuator is securely attached to the manifold and valve. 4. Examine Electrical Connections: • Wiring: Check for loose or frayed wires connecting the actuator to the control system. • Power Supply: Verify that the voltage is stable and within the actuator’s specifications. 5. Bleed the System: • Release Trapped Air: Use the bleed valves on the manifold to remove any air pockets. • Professional Help: If unsure, have a technician perform the bleeding. 6. Test the Actuator: • Manual Operation: Some actuators allow for manual opening and closing to test functionality. • Replace if Necessary: If the actuator is faulty, replacing it may resolve the clicking. When to Consult a Professional If the clicking persists after basic troubleshooting, it’s advisable to contact a qualified heating engineer or technician. Professional assistance is recommended when: • Persistent Noise: The clicking continues despite checking common issues. • Uncertainty: You’re unsure about performing electrical checks or system bleeding. • System Performance Issues: Reduced heating efficiency or uneven floor temperatures. • Safety Concerns: Suspected electrical faults or potential damage to the system. Preventive Measures • Regular Maintenance: Schedule periodic inspections of your UFH system to catch issues early. • Quality Components: Use reliable actuators and thermostats from reputable manufacturers. • Proper Installation: Ensure that all components are installed correctly by professionals. Conclusion A clicking UFH actuator can result from various factors ranging from normal operational sounds to mechanical or electrical issues. By systematically troubleshooting the possible causes, you can identify and often resolve the problem. If in doubt, seeking professional help will ensure your underfloor heating system operates efficiently and safely.

@LSB, that's very interesting. Also a novice builder in Suffolk I'm PM'd you.

Ah, that’s it. Do you know if the change in practice applies both to public and private inspectors?

@mjc55 It's been a topic discussed a few times on the Self Builders forum on Facebook. Mind you, my LABC told me today that "our Building Control Inspectors will carry out inspections, and if you require any clarification the inspectors can provide advice on your project" so perhaps it is a local authority specific change (thankfully not mine).

Thanks all for the feedback. I'm minded to go with LABC but I've heard that recent changes means that LABC inspectors cannot offer advice any more, only pass/fail works against the building regs. And that private inspectors are able to give advice but can't enforce the regs. Any thoughts on that?

Ah, sorry! The private inspector is £700 more than LABC.

Hi. For building regs control my architect has proposed LABC or an approved inspector that costs £700 but can’t explain why I’d pay the extra. Can I have your thoughts on the pros and cons please?

Hah, now you've made me go back to check my quote from Turner! And yes, I have that wrong. I confused them with Fleming (who only supply the additional insulation). Going to double check now that I've made the right decision to go elsewhere. Still time Did Turner also provide you with an insulated roof? Your choice of 0.09 for the walls will go some way to mitigate the thermal loss from your windows. What U values did you end up with for your glazing?

I was wondering about the performance numbers, thanks for sharing. Did you add more insulation over the insulation we saw set into the frame? We couldn’t find a TF company that could achieve 0.09 without extra layers of PIR. Triple glazing seems to be the next step for efficiency but I guess with your widows that would have been very expensive?

Finally got to watch the show. One of the best GD episodes ever. Under budget and ahead of schedule so it CAN be done. I’ve been following your Instagram channel from the early days so I have an idea what you’ve gone through to get to this point. Well done.

Which I find incredible. Your choice of materials has been excellent. Not cheap mind, but has upped the standard I want for my build.

@BUBBLES67 Did you find a good solution in the end?

Now I look back at my quotes I can’t find one from Aerobarrier to back up my £6k so ignore me.

That’s what they quoted me for a 180m2 house.

FYI, I have decided to go with MBC's Passive system. Yes, there is a premium, but once I started digging into the details of other offers the list of uncovered work got longer and longer. For me, the lack of thermal bridging and the promise of an insulated, air-tight, wind and weather-tight finished frame justified the premium. Just.

Cheaper here: £54. Probably shipping and tax on top. Same product though as far as I can tell. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006216842254.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.49.706fa3Spa3SpBs&algo_pvid=99a4c398-362c-4cad-8d1b-eba9e5600680&algo_exp_id=99a4c398-362c-4cad-8d1b-eba9e5600680-24&pdp_npi=4%40dis!GBP!106.78!53.39!!!135.75!67.88!%40210387dd17260731937254697eddc0!12000036322462749!sea!UK!889673203!X&curPageLogUid=KRqsJZNZNPs7&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A There's a lot of UK companies reselling stuff that we can get direct from AliExpress. I guess they offer a degree of quality assurance and convenience but sometimes the mark-up is fierce.

I’m finding the opposite. Fleming’s quote was almost 50% more than KTS/Potton. However I’m finding Potton very hard to pin down to one price. They keep presenting a low base price with options that aren’t actually optional. Like the roof insulation.

Twenty years from now I don't think so. But it's got me thinking about the embodied carbon in their products.

@Kevin Dawson I'm heading that direction. Need to make a decision very soon. Happy to compare notes

Yep. This is another factor. No one is perfect but corporate culture is hard to change.

I suspect that's exactly what they do. Mind you, a big part of ensuring safe design and practices is knowing what might go wrong and what questions to ask. That requires experience that I don't have so. If I could find a decent project manager who will work for a fee instead of wanting add a margin to all the works they procure for me then I'd lean on them. But I can't

Correct The PD’s role is to consider the safety risks of every design decision and mitigate them. It is not to lead the design - that’s the architect’s job.