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I’m considering using Alugutter but only seen the product in their website. Anyone used them? I will check out Lindlab and Guttercrest.

I'm back in the UK next week so any time from Monday works for me. The roofers are in at the moment so an early evening visit is best. I suggest Thursday, 6.30pm at the local pub - The George, Hintlesham - and we can go from there. Full disclosure, I can't vouch for quality of the pub as not visited yet. If there is a consensus for an alternative date then that's fine with me.

By the way. My timber frame is up. Roof is due on next week. In IP8 if anyone wants a look next week.

Sorry, can’t meet this time. I’m away on a rare business trip. Very annoying!

Spot on!

Yep, perhaps!

You just answered it, thanks Capping with aluminium is an option.

Any opinions on this topic? I will have black capped barge boards, soffits and fascias. I want a durable and low maintenance material that won’t need repainting, particularly for the capped barge boards as these will be most exposed to UV and weather. So far my list includes tricoya (expensive), Accoya (expensive), Cedral (not a fan of cement boards), larch, or whatever I can get from the local builders merchants.Definitely don’t want uPVC

Thanks @JohnMo. What HP do you have please?

Agree with both those points. I have roof lights to help with passive cooling. Might also use the ASHP to cool the slab a little during heat extremes (being careful to avoid the dew point).

Although initially concerned my heat geek engineer is now confident my system will qualify for the BUS even though I have no emitters upstairs. The ASHP is sized for heating the whole two storey house using the ground floor in-slab UFH. He has said I need to minimise insulation between floors though to allow heat to rise. I have a full height entrance hall and MVHR which will help.

I'm going to need some of that too. Do you have a supplier in mind?

Hi Alan, I'll message you directly

21degrees have been buying up smaller companies and putting them under one roof. I’d say they are struggling to integrate them into a true one stop shop. I am using them for windows and doors (Aluclad wood) and MVHR.

Oh, yes please

I got something similar from 21Degrees. Lowering the cladding helps which is how I reduced the packing to 6mm.

@marmic I had to order undersized windows from 21Degrees to get the cill falls. I have a fully-built 485mm wall thickness and the structural openings in my timber frame are flat. If I place the windows centrally then the cill needs to reach 100mm plus 30mm overhang, leaving me with 6mm to pack (and taking that off the window manufactured height). What are other suppliers doing differently to avoid this? Providing a deeper bottom frame?

Note that the lower splay results in reduced insulation at the base of the Velux so I’ll using extra low conductivity PIR here instead of the high pressure pumped cellulose.

And it’s done 😊

Wow, a month already! Happy to meet up again.

Yep, splays are definitely an issue for us as the roof is 400mm thick.

Hi. After lots of advice here I've decided to stick with Velux for my roof windows. I'm trying to position one of my windows - RL04 - over the bed in our master bedroom but space is looking tight to the ridge and valley. How close can I go? The window could be the MK08 (780x1400) or MK06 (780x118). Note, I'm aware the structural opening is wrong - just caught that mistake! Should be width +60, height +45. @JohnMo I feel certain you know the answer to this one!

@Andehh Also interested in your source for blinds please.

Rationel were the cheapest of the suppliers we explored but I dropped them very quickly but only because of their window handles 12 months later and I have a longer list of reasons. I don’t understand why MBC promote them.