FarmerN

Check that only foul drainage is getting into system, not clean water from roof and paving as well, otherwise as above. ,

My Land Registry has the following entries A. Property Register " Land On The West Side Of xxxxxxx Lane, XXXXXXXX. B Proprietorship Register Tiltle absolute PROPIETOR my name and Home address and email address. Hope that helps. Which reminds me now we have built and moved in we probably need to change the Land Registry entries to our new address.

So perhaps the sewage discharges to rivers, during wet weather, are not entirely the water companies fault.

Try British Geological Survey https://www.bgs.ac.uk/information-hub/borehole-records/ What is a borehole record? Boreholes range from one to several thousand metres deep. Borehole records are produced from a geologist’s or surveyor’s observations of the rock core extracted from the ground and typically include locality and lithological descriptions with depth and thickness. Geophysical logs may also be noted from on-site measurements. Abbreviations used in borehole/water well records What is a borehole? 400 KB pdf National well archive Searching BGS borehole records also gives you access to the the National Well Record Collection. It contains more than 130 000 classified records of wells, boreholes and springs within England and Wales; a unique database of hydrogeological information.

Yes Yes, a pretty good air tight membrane laid on the blocks, lapped up wall taped to a wide draping DPM, one or two doorways left a bit to be desired on a perfect seal, but no sign of air leakage at airtightness testing. Also a second membrane above the insulation beneath the dry screed used. This however was well punctured by the staples used to hold the UFH pipes in place.

I bought from these guys. https://www.dlf.co.uk/amenity Which mix depends on use lawn is going to get. Can sow up to middle of October , but the sooner it's sown the better the cover over the winter months. If sown very late, it will be better if you keep off it till spring.

I suppose I was just not committed enough to the Passive house. Also wanted to use local people and was just getting no support from two different SE or architect. The theoretical u values of the floor are still good, but I have no faith in the whole beam and block construction, cold air beneath the floor instead of solid earth . Yes also worried about thermal bridging It’s all built now so got to live with it. A thermal imaging camera in winter will be interesting. We have GSHP, MVHR , PV and battery Yet to live through a winter, so February will be interesting.

We had a meter of clay over wet sand with trees close by. Was more or less forced into piles down 4.5 M by structural engeneer , who was worried about clay shrinkage in summer due to tress. Ended up with Beam and block foundations with 180 mm insulation under 90mm screed. Perinsula under perimiter walls at insulation level. My dream when we started out was a passive raft, possibly on Foam glass aggregate ( Geocell ) as the site needed building up a bit.

We had exactly the same situation, demolished a damp bungalow, in a hole, the front and back lawns always flooded. We raised the whole foot print of the build by 600mm, and now have a steady fall from the rear of the house to the road. The build was beam and block ,which made raising the actual house very easy as there is a void with no fill under the floors. The patio and drive way were raised with reclaimed crushed stone , leaving only the garden to fill with soil. We cleared 200mm of top soil off the whole site before the build started, fortunatly we had space to stack this and keep it clean. Then filled the garden area up with subsoil from the fondations with a bit of imported subsoil ,capped off with the saved topsoil. The planners had specified the ground level to eaves height, but fortunatly not the datum ground level.

We have just moved into our new build ,with Rationel triple glazed windows. Pleased so far. We moved from an old farm house with single glazing where you could hear the dawn chorus, now deathly silence when I get up in the morning. My wife definitely does not like the silence. In a rural location there is a down side to the acoustic benefits. The mistake we made fitting the windows was with plastering the reveals, the plaster was not thick enough, leaving airtight tape showing on the window frames. Tried removing surplus tape, impossible, ended up with wood beading round reveals on to the frame to cover the exposed tape on the frames.

We have new Velux Integra electric windows in our new build bungalow. They were all working yesterday but we have managed to jam one shut while trying to reset remotes. ( KLI 311) The remote is now delinked , but the window is jammed shut and we are unable to open it with the manual bar , which seems to be totally jammed in the closed position. I have put a fair bit of force on the bar but am afraid of breaking it. We have clearly messed up during the delink sequence and have managed to lock it shut. I think we need it open to start the relink process with the remote. It all started as we had two windows opening from one remote. Four other windows working perfectly. How do we open? Anyone else been in the same situation.?

We had a similar situation, all we did was draw up plans stretching permitted development rules to the limit, but still not an unrealistic plan. Then drew up plans for a complete new build of the same floor area and argued that it would be a so much more energy efficient, better looking , long term development etc etc. We got planning for the new build, but with every possible condition slapped on. Tree protection, bat tiles in new build, car charger, bird boxes and planting native hedging. I guess every council is different in it’s approach. You say it’s an old farm house of 140 sq m , which makes me wonder about an Agricultural restriction. If property has an Agricultural Restriction on it I guess council will be even harder. Look at the trees before any planners come near and get rid of any that are in the way, that you dont want, protection of tree roots during build really is a pain . We have a 60 year old oak causing us problems. I plannted the retched thing and now they are telling me what to do with it! Good luck.

A CPH is a County Parish Holding number issued by the Animal & Plant Health Agency ( APHA) ie the goverment and is a legal requirement to keep farm animals. Don't know the answer to your question, but I would think that by applying for a CPH you are effectivly establishing a small holding farm.

We have a lot of farm sheds with Fiber cement and cement asbestos rooves. Most of those built after 1994 have been tested asbestos free, though odd sheds still had it in. No idea what era the garage pictured would be, but roof sheets look in very good condition for a shallow pitch. I think the ban on asbestos use came in, in 1999, but the change away to other fibers started in the 1980's. Not suggesting working on it without testing first.

As said above , get a sample tested, fair chance it's fiber cement not asbestos.

Still floundering a little but had to make a decision, on track lighting. Ordered 6 meters of 3 phase Eutrac tracking from SLV, for each side of the beam , I am told SLV/Eutrac is reasonably universal in accepting other makes of fittings. Aim is to have the 3 phases ( 3 separate circuits ) switched independently with dimmer switches, giving me plenty of options on zoned lighting , it’s a big multi purpose room. I have been told that there is far more choice of light fittings for 3 phase compared to single, I just hope the track is not too bulky and obtrusive. Not ordered the light fittings yet but hope to have a couple of more powerful wide angle spots as well a number of smaller spots. No Pendants of track at this stage. My main worry is that there will be too much glare as they are spot lights at about 3 meters high, and that I am just making the lighting far more complex than needed.

Widow company fitted factory painted wood windows , tape internally with Contega SL after installation. Reveals then hard wall, wet plastered. Combination of wavy taping, and not quite thick enough plaster has left a lot of tape showing through. It’s a mess. How do we get excess tape off.?? The taping is definitely over generous , coming too far on to the window frame. The plaster is definitely a bit thin in places, not covering enough tape. Solutions proposed so far. Remove tape , Seems almost impossible without damaging paint More plaster in reveals. Would leave very thin exposed frame. Beading over tape. May be easiest, but not quite the look we hoped for. Sand down, to remove tape residue and repaint that part of frame. Am I the first to hit this problem. The tape appears to do what it’s designed for. Stay on. Lesson take care taping and plastering. Make sure the tape is covered!

Hi All Posted very little on here but found forum a great help over the last couple of years, Thanks. Coming to the final stage of a new build bungalow and need advice on track lights. We have a large kitchen /dinner /family room, 7M x 6M with a vaulted ceiling and Oak Beam/ Truss across the middle . I plan to put track lighting on both sides of the beam but am totally confused by what to use and what lights I can fit to track. Power supply to one end of beam only. Are many tracks now genuinely universal taking other makes of lights, or should I stick to one make? How do I know which lights fit which track? What I think I want is Black can spots, some with wide angle bulbs, warmlight (3000K? ) plenty of general light when at full power 3 meters from beam, rather than narrow glaring beams spots. All Dimmable, maybe 6 meter track with 6 lights, lights each side of beam. Lights direct mounted on track , not pendants off track. Any suggestions welcome. I am Old! No prior experience of modern lighting, and running out of time. I’m not particularly techie either. I’m making little progress with Google searches, so floundering. Earlier Threads suggest Eutac for Track but can’t work out what make of lights will fit on this.

I've just had connection in a temrorary box moved into the house by SPNetworks. They cut the temporary supply cable put an underground joint in and ran it to house, so the box is now completly redundant. I am no electrician and my school boy electrics is now clearly redundant. The cable used is single core + the armoured sleve, so two stands only !! I have no idea how that works. We have a large all electric range cooker, 3 to12 Kw GSHP, ( seems to use under 1 Kw when running) MVHR and a car charger is a condition of my planning. I wait to see what happens when we finally live there. The bit that will make it really interesting is SPNetworks keep telling me I have a 25 KV transformer, even though the plate on it says 15 KV. ! It also supplies one other house

Trying to do exactly that at the moment, I want to run DHW at 43-45 C but told its almost impossible to buy a thermostatic shower mixer valve that will give me a hot shower at that temperature. I want to stick to a thermostatic valve, not manual, to deal with the 55-60C temperature of the weekly sterilzation cylcle.

@PhilT In another thread you posted this. Please can you tell me what shower tap you use, is it thermostatic? I'm having very little luck asking manufacturer which valve to use for a low temperature hot supply to shower. The replies I have had so far seem to want a big differential between hot supply and shower delivery temperature.

How did you go about finding the leaks during these diagnostic air tests, and how long to allow? We have a 215qsM bungalow under constucion, with large kitchen living space with vaulted ceilings.

Thanks for replies. My feeling is to do something at junction, either foam or paint or both. I'm bothered if I follow nods advice and leave it until airtight test, after fitting skirting, it will be much harder to rectify any air leaks that I may find. I really don’t know how much the wall floor junction normally leaks air, especially with beam and block. I keep wondering how much time it would take to make a rig with fan to depressurise the house, so I can go leak hunting with a smoke pen or whatever. I am guessing the professionals want to come, do test and go, without really looking for source of leaks.

Screed has gone down today over UFH , next is wet plaster on block walls, how do I deal with airtightness of plaster to screed junction. We have a 25mm perimeter upstand and an expansion strip between screed and block wall, so plenty of opportunity for air leaks down to the beam and block floor. How should we deal with the wall floor junction? Neither the builder nor plasterer are keen to plaster right to the screed, they both want the traditional gap behind the skirting board. Builder of course says “ stop worrying , the DPM is well taped to the DMC , of course it will be airtight”. I on the other hand have a major concern. We are having MVHR. How should we deal with the wall floor junction? Plaster to screed? Airtight paint? Blue foam in gap ? ???? Thanks

Good to hear. Could you tell me make and model of shower mixer Please ?