FarmerN

Time to Shut the windows untill outdoor temperature is lower than indoor!

Thanks for your reply. Yes now cooling incoming air! 0% Bypass Auto setting Outdoor air temperature 27.5C Supply Air 26.5C Extract air 26.5 C Almost identical to yours. So apperars to be working as it should, I was just surprised to see a small degree of warming overnight. House while warm is not yet oppresive.

The figures are all taken from the MVHR unit display I presume the sensors are all in the unit within plant room. I am not aware of any remote sensors.

Unit Currently showing Extract air 25 C from rooms Outside Air 21 C into unit Supply Air 22.5 into rooms Bypass 100% 230 CuM /Hr for a 210 Sq M bungalow

It was a very large 1890 built unimproved Farm house, took a lot of heating.

The display on my Zehnder Q350 shows the incoming air at 17.5 C but air entering rooms at 20 C. Seems odd to me, is this normal or do I have a problem? Set on 100% bypass ,cool temperature profile, Bypass on Auto. Surely the air should be coming in at outside temperature? 5am and still 17.5 outside in a rural area.

5 Kw Wood burner running 27/7 from 1st Nov. to Mid April used about 8 cuM of home produced wood. Stove would be shut down on low burn a lot of the time. Now GSHP UFH etc but still light a stove for 1-2 hrs in winter , don’t need it but it’s nice and we have the wood.

Birds will go for foam and rubber , from blue tits to carrion crows. Friend in Ireland had Hooded Crows ripping rubber seals out. We have had Carrion crows attacking their own reflection on bedroom windows.

870mm is fine to open a dishwasher. At 1100mm can open dishwasher and draw in island at same time ,to unload dishwasher, but not walk between when both are open. Not sure how it would work if it was a cupboard instead of draw. How valuable is the space on the other side of the island? Space for dinning table ? Compromises as ever.

Crushed recycled varies a lot between suppliers, in my experence. Had some really good some awful , get a sample and check first load when delivered

My wife say’s, therefore right,- ours are spoilt by the grout which is a light colour , not dark as the gaps between floor boards would be. They were also laid at a standard tile spacing , which again is wider than floor board spacing would be, no idea if they can be laid with a narrower spacing. The tiles do look very realistic but the grouting does detract from that. If I was doing more I would have a look at some laid ones in showrooms.

It would be interesting to know the outcome.

We did an expensive SUDS compliant block paving drive way, took a fair bit of time and care doing it. Two years in and it's an awful lot less permeable than it was , guess is in 5 years it won’t be permeable at all. Mud from car wheel arches and muddy boots from gardening and walking soon fills the permeable cracks, being in a rural area there is plenty of mud around.. Fortunately it doesn’t matter, to us.

This sounds interesting. Can you tell me more please. How does this work exactly? See Thread Wiring for freestanding lights?

We have been in our new build for 2 years. Wiring I wish we had done different. External lighting done with the wrong cable for PIR lights ( 2core used should have been 3core ? ) Only got rear external sockets , used a lot but should have had one at front as well, perhaps by EV charger. Wiring for towel rail did not allow for timer. Things I like. 2 consumer units only one supported by battery in event of outage, so heat pump and towel rails do not drain battery. Because of automatic gateway often do not realise we have a power cut. 5 amp lighting sockets for side lights in lounge , hall and kitchen family room, switched by door. We put high level sockets for extra bathroom heat, been here 2 winters and not used them, but who knows when I’m 90 ( a bit too close for comfort) Put small distribution box in Garage, so easy to take an extra feed to greenhouse or summer house etc.

Our dish washer is connected above the U bend below the sink and can smell. Every 3 months I have to unscrew dishwasher waste connection, clean and reconnect. Problem solved for me. Running a cleaning cycle in the dishwasher doesn’t sort it. It’s just a badly designed waste connection, that allows a build up of crud. The washing machine connection in the utility is identical and also requires the occasional clean but not as often.

From a conversation I had last night about gardens in new builds , they are lucky compacted clay is the problem rather that compacted bricks and rubble. Advice all sounds good. My approach would be to try to aid aeration by loosening clay with a long fork and spreading sharp sand ( concreating sand, not fine building sand) as well as organic matter. A modern fork will probably bend a 50 year old one probably won’t. Builders and developers do need to think about looking after the future gardens more. Top soil screening buckets are now readily available for diggers to clear a site of large rubble pieces and can be very effective. Our digger drivers idea of levelling the site was to track everything in and track back and too until level ! Soon stopped that.

1st half of the pipe length is in 22mm before going down to 15 mm.

Our kitchen sink is far corner of house to DHW cylinder, half run in 22mm pipe, can nearly fill a washing up bowl before hot arrives. Manifold system sounds good to me.

Our builder brought the plumber in for fist fix without sorting where everything else was to be sited, only had to change pipe layout into plant room twice ! So my experience would suggest you need a clear plan of what is to go is to go in plant room and where it can be sited. As with everything compromises have to be made, nothing is ever quite perfect. So coming into our plant room in ducts through floor – Water , broadband, mains electric, duct back to garage for EV charger and battery, drain for MVHR and spare duct to outhouse for future use. Only 7 points needing varying degrees of access! Sited in plant room GSHP, DHW, MVHR, meter, consumer units, battery control box , two expansion vessels, one UFH manifold, etc etc.

Whilst it might clutter the house ,could you put an additional door in the back hall? This would separate the bedroom area from living and give a little more privacy to the bathroom. It already has garage one side and on suite the other so hard to improve on that. Perhaps move door from front hall.

In my opinion , how much glass you have will make a massive difference. Overheating is not a problem for us with windows, two neighbours with glass walls complain about over heating. Any chance of Velux window in vaulted ceiling to let heat out, cool bedroom at night. We have MVHR and like it, have a friend with hay fever who says it’s always better when staying with us, also bathrooms dry quickly and plant room serves as drying room,

See Your in Cheshire A factory built house went up last summer which I think was Danwood, but may be wrong. I t was built on a raft foundation and was bolted together and roofed in less than a week. I have no idea if it had MVHR or other tech. It’s on the west side of the A49 in the 30 mph zone of Spurstow , Bunbury .

Our 110cm Range cooker is rated at 17 kW . Interesting as our transformer is rated at 15 Kw ! The other wiring we put in which my wife likes is a 5amp socket circuit for side lights switched at door separate to main lights. Make sure you make provision for a car charger, even if you have no intention of getting one yet.

Ours is in plant room, which is lined with 25mm ply so you can easily mount anything anywhere. Chose solid outside wall for MVHR unit so no risk of vibration noise traveling through timbers, when unit ages.