pudding

Just a pair from a CAT5/6 cable? I've using a pair in a CAT6 cable from an Eastron power meter to my PV inverter to carry a modbus signal.

Hello, I'm wanting to replace my front and back doors, and replace 6 windows in my place, near Bristol. 5 windows are approx 1.3m wide by 1m high, split into 3 with outer 2 opening, and 1 is 60cmx1m. Plain double glazed white casement windows. The front door replacement would be composite, with a single double glazed panel in the top half, and back door uPVC white and full height glazed. Just had my first meeting and quote back, and was a bit shocked at the price. They'd come recommended by a couple of colleagues so I was expecting and hoping this would be the only quote needed. Price for the 2 doors (front door was an Endurance door, rest is Rehau Total 70 profiles) came to £3656, and then including all windows too if I opted for those aswell, the total came to £7170 all fitted etc. Are these the current realistic fully fitted prices? Last time I had window/door fitted on another property were 4 years ago for Ali frames and triple glazed, and I was expecting quite a bit less. Am I just a bit out of touch with current prices since the rampant inflation of the last few years? Thanks.

https://www.tradepipes.co.uk/black-twinwall-duct-40mm-x-25m-coil?search_string=PM398 There you go, comes with a drawstring wire inside ready for future use.

Certainly UFH to get best efficient use of the ASHP, but not necessarily a thick screed? As it's a new build, lots of insulation and good air tightness and it'll retain the heat without the need for the 'storage heater' of the thick slab? Of course it won't do any harm though.

ASHP, and go big on solar and battery. 10kWp+, 20kWh+ battery, do it at this stage as cheaper. Then you can take full advantage of cheaper ToU tariffs and run majority if not all of the year on cheap rates/free PV electricity.

All good. No issues. I removed the vertical bit of wood on the left next to the wall earlier this year when I took it apart to clean the filters/remove leaves etc, which may have let in slightly more air to the back of the fan unit, apart from that, still running as when it was fitted.

The driveway serves 3 properties. The top one, the old farmhouse owns the land, we just have access rights down it to our property. The drain is right at the top of the driveway, then public highways for the lane, so the plan of tarmac bump behind the ACO is right at the top. I'll try my best to get them to share costs, hopefully they're feeling receptive to that, as the issue doesn't affect them, just us at the bottom of the driveway/courtyard. More importantly hopefully they'll be happy with me building a bump at the top of what is their land and their driveway! I could try and contact highways, but I thought they wouldn't be interested as the road isn't flooding so it's not their problem? Bitumen tack paint or paint sounds great, will look into that. Also, where's best to get bags of tarmac and any particular kinds/brands to get/avoid? Also, would it be worth cutting grooves or holes in the existing tarmac to help the new key/stick in and not flatten and spread, particularly going downhill?

So, best plan seems to be a speed bump. Is tarmac the best option, laid directly onto the tarmac behind the ACO drain? What kind, any in particular? And just a pile of tarmac moulded into shape or anything in/under it to form the bump? Ok to lay it straight onto the driveway tarmac? I guess I'll give it a good jetwashing to clean it, and then maybe blowtorch to warm it up and get it sticky before putting on the new tarmac to try and get them to stick together?

I tried leaving the top grills of the aco off, makes no difference when there's heavy rain, it just fills with water too quickly before it drains away and is then bypassed. The lowest point of the ACO currently comes out of a pipe onto the road, which then flows away fine carrying on down the lane. You can just see the top of the pipe in the puddle of water near bottom of first pic. So just need the best method of stopping the water getting onto the driveway and getting it to a similar point and it'll just continues to flow down the lane. I'd like to get something in place so that I don't need to worry about what the farmer is doing. I could speak to him, and he might change his ways and plough the countours for a while, but then in future/new tenant farmer, who knows..? I want to take them out of the equation.

Hey all, I've had a longstanding issue with our driveway and rainwater runoff from the fields above us on the hillside. When we bought our plot and built our house about 10years ago, the fields were grass and had livestock in them. We had a channel drain put in at the top of the new driveway to catch rainwater running down the road. This was all fine for a couple of years, rain soaked into the grassy fields and just the rain falling on the road went into the channel drain which coped fine with that amount of water. Then the tenant farmer changed in the field, he now plants crops, which drastically increases the amount of rainwater that runs off the fields, through hedges and onto the roads, as half the time, such as the last few months, the fields are just mud with nice trenches in from ploughing and the tractor wheels which channel large amounts of water from the whole field and dumps it onto the road. This water is usually muddy and full of silt which clogs up the drain and slotted grills on top. I removed the grills and cleared all the mud last week thinking that might sort it, but despite that, the sheer amount of rain water that runs off fills and overwhelms the capacity of the drain which happened the very next day after clearing the mud out. This muddy water then flows down our driveway, and unfortunately we're the bottom of the 3 properties on the site, the water now goes straight down to our front door and house. There is another channel drain in front of our house, but that again doesn't cope with the huge amount of water that's now filling it. It was only designed I think to take the water falling directly on the tarmac driveway. This drain then overflows right in front of our house giving rise to a few inches of water, and has in the past been just cm from entering our front door. Now in the last couple of weeks, the soakaway where all this water goes has been backing up and water coming up and out of the metal lid, so I assume the soakaway is getting clogged with all the silt and crap going into it. Here's some pics of the area. This is looking up the lane, fields on the right, and channel drain in the middle with a few grills off from when I cleared the mud. Looking down the lane. Here's the channel drain full and the water is just flowing over the top. This was before the mud was cleared out and it was just lightish rain. When it rains heavy, a LOT more water flows at this drain and even with the mud cleared, just fills it and then flows straight past it as if it weren't even there. We then get a nice stream going down our driveway down to our house at the bottom around the corner there. Then the ACO drain, hidden beneath the muddy water, in front of our house just fills up before this amount of water can drain away, and theres a couple of inches or water up against the stone wall there. So, I need to come up with a solution to stop this before the soakaway is completely buggered, and so our front door can be used without having to navigate a stream and sludge with the potential flooding, and ensure the water doesn't get into our house. My thinking is some kind of hump/lump/slope at the top of the driveway to completely stop the water getting onto the driveway in the first place, although I'm not sure of the best way to build that. Tarmac/concrete/granite setts/speed bumps/something else? And then build the bump in front of the drain, or behind it? Or, dig the channel drain out completely and put in something else better? Or..... Any suggestions and comments appreciated. Would love to get this sorted soon before the next deluge. Not too nice wondering if the next downpour is going to make its way into the house. Pretty stressful and anxiety inducing as I work away from home and can't always be there to put concrete blocks and things in the way to try and divert the water away from the house and front door. Also slightly complicated by the fact the driveway isn't owned by is, its the neighbours and we just have access rights over. They're not affected by this problem, so cheaper solutions the better in the hope of splitting costs. Cheers.

Sorry. not quite. 2/3rds above - 1/3rd below refers to the insulation above/below joists, not air space. So if you had 100mm PIR boards above the joists, putting 50mm of mineral wool would be fine, push it all the way up next to the deck above. Then vapour barrier below joists, then plasterboard on top.

My vote would be in the middle if the empty wall space left of the window, then you could build some boxed/cladding around it with sloping roof.

Another update. Steps refurb finished. Wet rot wood hardener added with extra holes drilled to really get it into the wood. Filler to pack out the damaged areas then sanded, 2 coats of this elastomeric paint - https://www.promain.co.uk/heavy-duty-elastomeric-floor-coating.html , finally fibreglass tread nosings stuck on with sticks like sh!t. Looking waaaay better, plus not a death trap anymore! 😁

Update! Pretty much all done now. So, order of works was - scrub&wash walls, repaint 2 coats including painting up into top of walls slightly, then use left over render to render wall tops sealing edges of paint hoping to prevent any water getting behind it, outdoor tile adhesive used then to bed slate capping and a piece of DPC in between each slate beneath the mortar line (the mortar line between each slate was where the worst water run-off marks were leading to algae), then pieces of slate used behind each post, also sanded/re-oiled, so it stood off a few mm from the wall, plus bottom of posts trimmed so any water will drip slightly away from the walls. Decking scrubbed, jetwashed then re-oiled, very satisfying job! Time will tell to see how long this all lasts before I need to clean it all again.

There is no formula. It just needs to be strongly secured enough, so if BC are involved, that's either according to a structural engineer, or general guidance from a bracket/rail manufacturer that BC will be happy with. 1m I'd say is massive overkill. Usually most will spec 30-40cm minimum. (On a FB group im in, just general UK solar if i remember correctly, some guy who's in the industry had a doc that stated about there being no minimum distance specified anywhere only recommendations, and it just needs to be strong enough, which over the years has led to every install playing it safe and staying 30-40cm away from an edge, rather than actually thinking about it or deviating from the standard install that everyone will throw up) I've gone closer on a couple of corners of mine on a nearly flat roof carport last year, but i've doubled up on the panels brackets/rails through to the timber battens, so i'm happy it wont uplift with strong winds. The older array that another company installed a few years ago stuck to 30-40cm. Here's a pic -