Super_Paulie

im doing the same thing on my 30's place, but on an internal exposed wall. I did various mixes and found out that by simply throwing a "1" of sharp sand gave me the aggregate look on the surface random enough to blend in.

i have a Sonoff at the switch and every bulb is a Tapo so can dim, change whites or any colour you fancy. Wont ever use it, but you know, "Smart stuff".

You can get talon covers in various colours. I got black ones to attempt to match the nickel valves, looked crap so went for the chrome version instead, much happier and just polished up the small amount of copper. Suggest you try that for a few quid first, and either polish the copper or use a matching chrome pipe snap cut to size?

I have exactly this in the original 1930s part of the house. It's what you think it is, a long wooden dowel that is nailed to wedges in the corners of brick work. I have exposed a wall and recreated the detail with the original method, see attached in an awful photo you can see the wedge top right. Brought back memories of painting that wall that blue/green and then 2 days later painting it back over again with something less sh1te.

😆 I looked at the post, realized i had no better alternative to what you had already done. Thought either a) hole in the bottom of the box to exposed air to atmosphere or b) silica gel in the box. Neither would work id imagine.

for what its worth i used these open frame jobs and seemed decent enough. House hasnt burned down yet, i just pushed the acoustic wool out of the way with the bulb frame. https://integral-led.com/en/catalog/node/evofire

I did not, was a right chew on. Did insulated on the heads where i could but the whole thing was a clart about and im glad its now over...

not too dissimilar to my own efforts. 50mm PIR between the battens, 120mm on top of the battens, 30mm pug. Absolutely no problem getting the house to 23 if i want it, but i just set the entire downstairs to be 21 during the day with a 20 night-time setback, house is always just nice and warm. The smaller front room is north facing, has a non-insulated bay window and a carpet, all of this means that room is no where near as comfortable as the extension 3 times the size of it. Carpet will be changed for low tog (already got the thermalstream underlay), its just whacked down until the rest of the house is done as its a walkway from my workshop (bedroom) to the new extension. It does short cycle when only the small loop is open, but im still to add more volume to the system (already have a 50l tank in the loft) in the bathroom and a hall rad which will help a tad, im not worried by it. The whole thing was a real laborious job but i just couldnt trust a fitter (in my price range) to do the job to the standards id have liked. And as for my new triple panel uber pricey radiators... never used.

35mm for me, consistency around all the new windows meant various depth reveal boards, 9mm, 12.5mm and 6mm Wedi-board to achieve it.

i was worried about the chemicals leeching into the plasterboard but it never happened and i am currently still alive so the air quality must be ok.

my local timber place only seems to stock battens and most timbers that are treated these days. Guess it'll last forever indoors.

i mean, wasnt/isnt the obvious answer to just cut a few boards if you want them to match up? probably why there werent any answers as its kinda self explanatory...

Id be tempted to remove a few rows of tiles to check it out from above. It's a shame they didn't do the insulation as good as they should as it looks a decent job otherwise. This is why I have trust issues with trades... I did ask my own insulation and foamed and taped absolutely everything as belt and braces, my roof level PIR is angled to meet the insulation in the cavity which I think you may be missing? Id get some of those tiles off to check it out as my place is never cold even though it's a 1930s.

yeah you can do them to the height of the existing. My BC officer said this in December 2023: "You are correct that the regulations, for new dwellings, would be for sockets to be placed at the height of 450mm. Given that you are replicating the existing arrangements, I would have no objections." For what its worth i did mine lower to match existing but in hindsight i wish i made them higher.

Who knows, id imagine so but I have no way to measure such a thing. I insulated the upright more to stop condensation behind the plasterboard. All I know is the house is 23° and the beam is warm to touch even though outside is -2°.