Super_Paulie

I full bed PVAd the ply, no chance that would ever come up!

the chipboard is there purely to act as a backer for the tiles, ive been informed tiling directly onto P5 is not a good idea.

Gotcha, it's solid as in 22mm P5 with 6mm Ply glued and screwed. It says on the back of the container that it must be dry before adhesive, which is kinda the opposite to what I've read on here where it needs to be "tacky". I've just found a tech sheet from UltraTile SPES that says to apply it neat on plywood before adhesive as well, so that's 3 options! 🤣 Happy to go with professional plumber experience with this one though 👑

Does this still l hold true for tiling @Nickfromwales? I'm going for porcelain over 6mm plywood (which is over chipboard) already glued and screwed. I went over it with Ultra primer 3:1 mix last night, should I go over over it again just before I start to mix up my adhesive? Instructions on the container are ropey at best. Advice welcome.

Taking a day off from the bathroom job and going to finally tile my internal porch. Be good for practice as well. Everything cut and dry fitted, so now it's time to get to it. I've got Ultra tile Pro Primer, what's the best way to use this? Instructions on the back are rubbish at best, I was going to mix it up with 25% water and then just lash it all over the floor (P5 chipboard with a glued and screwed 6mm ply top). Let it soak in and then crack on with the adhesive. Sound correct?

Thanks everyone, job done with a 2mm gap. I opened up the strike plate to give me a bit of wiggle room when it comes to adjusting it after painting. Once the glue has gone off I can get the filler over the nails sanded and the edges I assume caulked, need to look into that one. Cheers folks.

Thanks folks. Yeah it's the gap between the stop and the door I'm meaning, I have the gaps around the door all sorted at 2mm. So some of you guys say 3/4mm for paint, others 2mm 😆

Anyone got any tips on attaching the individual door stops to the linings? I've got the doors hung, the linings are all filled and sanded ready for paint but I've got to get the stops on first. As I'm painting the frames (not the doors) should I be leaving like 2mm all round to accommodate that additional thickness, and should that be more like 3mm at the hinge side? Planning on Zinsser BIN then my topcoat.

always love a "done in" photo mid-build.

Stone Plastic Composite. Probably all the same stuff.

im south facing with 2 sets of bifolds and its been fine. Mine is SPC for what its worth, but its ok so far.

Yep, love that @Tetrarch, great effort.

im still not sure what i really need, do i need it to be that flexible? The SPES seems to have the best of both worlds.

i was planning on using tile adhesive for the tray, as the welsh plumber @Nickfromwales recommends, with CT1 around the sides. So should i be going for the SPES gear all round?

I always left an expansion gap. One can assume with UFH and the south sun beating down it's gonna move. I left it maybe 5, 8mm from the edge of the doors and put a trim over it with the trim attached to the doors rather than the floor so it can expand underneath it without bucking. The rest was just a gap that you can't see once I'd added skirting. I did ponder having a sunken mat as well but ultimately couldn't be arsed with the hassle. My plan was the same as above with a trim from the mat well and then over the edge onto the floor with the LVT edge covered by this, I guess like an upside down L shape. Like I say I didn't go for it, so couldn't really advise on that one.