Super_Paulie

mine was the inside face, flush with the block. I attached a 10mm aerogel with spray adhesive and them foamed the edges to the block. Finally covered in plasterboard when i did the full wall, avoiding a join at that point. Seems to have worked, no noticeable cold spots here and previously the steel was absolutely freezing.

interested in the body dryer. Any good?

did the very same. Cut them off and replaced with the in-line Wago light boxes for each spot.

Looks like a finished refurb in an Albanian prison, fair play to ya.

I have a goalpost type setup with the post flush to the block. I attached a sheet of aerogel to that and foamed the edges before plasterboarding, attached with foam rather than traditional adhesive. The upright leads to a comically oversized beam that has been left exposed over 8m. I can tell you, the beam is cool but never cold and it seemingly has very little effect on the rooms temperature which I have at 23° daytime and 21 evening. Aerogel might seem expensive but could be an option?

i got my velux integras from Roof Giant. Seemed to be the best price after many hours trawling the interweb.

yep, works flawlessly with my Google Home.

a few clout nails underneath will stop that happening. Maybe Gapotape? big money for the quantity involved though. Whole thing seems like a big challenge whatever way you look at it.

rockwool and netting would be better than nowt for sure. To echo what people have said here though, this job will be horrendous. Its awful cutting and dropping it in from above, never mind lying on your back in a freezing crawl space. Id say this will be the worst job youve ever done, especially in the quantity you speak of. Make sure the vents are clear so you get air flow under your floor. If like my place about 90% of them were blocked or collapsed, i simply cut mine out and replaced with high flow versions which bridged the cavity above and went straight under the floor. You can get nice looking ones to suit the style of the house, metal grid face etc. Curveball, you could always deliberately cut some PIR short and foam them in all round? Have someone measure underneath and another person above ground cutting and passing it through.

i used the clear matt and its nice stuff. Flood it on with a roller, leave it 24hrs. Rub down with an orbital on 240. Then flood it again, leave another 24hrs. Sand back again with 240. One final coat but wipe it down until its "dry". Left it a week before putting anything on it, jobs a good un.

i was in the same boat when the missus decided last minute she didnt want surface mounted spots on the vaulted ceiling. I found some very thin lights from Alusso. Yeah, usual stuff you expect from the likes of Amazon but they are really slim. I actually prefer them much more than my "more legit" Tapo bulbs as when they change colour they fade between them, the Tapo GU10s just go hard from one colour to the next, less impressive. I battened out 50mm over my joists/insulation and also removed a small section of it behind each light just to give it a bit more breathing room, then used a light-box from Wago to make the connections. Probably overkill as these are always stone cold. Alusso Anyways, i use the RGB bluetooth version which are more like 30mm but you can get standard white ones that are like 19mm. I bought a ton of spares for when the company inevitably go under.

I completely foamed up between the floor and walls after plastering with FM330. Glad I did, finishes it off nicely. Foamed everything I could to be honest, quite satisfying.

not sure how much use this info is but i have some 4m bifolds, but under a steel beam and there has been no deflection. All work fine the last 10 years, it was the glass with integrated blinds that kept packing in. The beam was probably massively overspec.

A lot of my build is great. Some of it no so much but I was able to sort it/work around it. End of the day I won't recommend the builder to anyone, so his loss possibly. It's why I have trust issues with trades, always disappointed in some capacity.

builders "finished" in 2023. Then i spent a good 6 months working through the snags they left behind. Most joists are in pockets but there were a few like in the photo.