Super_Paulie

apologies 🤣 So i have this straight, XPS board, dabs on the board as opposed to the wall, dab about the back but away from the edges. Push that plumb, when its gone off drill through the dabs in various places. Sound about right?

Seems quite faffy, especially with the small size of the individual backer boards... Should I just batten it out with 2x1 and be done with it? No pipes or anything else on that wall, it's back to brick and just needs to be tile-able and not eat into the already tiny room.

i was planning on doing this, albeit through 40mm oak but sacked it off as the charging speed was a snails pace. Especially when its about a foot away from a fast-charging socket which charges at about 20 times the speed, didnt make any sense to do it.

There is no EWI, it's a cavity wall though. So direct connection to the wall with say 12mm XPS backer board is my best option here?

Good evening my friends. As the football is over and my working year comes to a close (university) it means I can get down to business so I'm ordering my supplies. My shower will be pressed against the only external wall in the room, it's currently back to brick so I was going to backer board that wall, the type with the foam core. I'll just MR board the rest of the room. The room is very small, any centimetre gained is a bonus. What are my options at the shower area, tile adhesive, foam directly to the wall followed by screws and washers? Cut my space loses, batten the wall out with 20mm deep battens and go against that? If so, insulation between said battens? Sack off all of the above, MR pasteboard and tank? Opinions welcome.

hard to argue that it doesnt work well either. intumescent paint test

i bought an extra pack of the kitchen ceiling sealed LED units when i found a cheap set on ebay. Seemed to make sense, been in the loft ever since but one day i'll say to myself i did the right thing...

I've got a DeWalt first fix as well and it's f'ing huge. Never used it, got it at work but I'd only ever use that for framing.

ive got a DeWalt and a Makita 2nd fix gun, much prefer the DeWalt. It seems to "wind up" before it punches, where the Makita just comes down like a ton of bricks which makes it difficult to handle. Both are big units like but both work well, the DeWalt uses angled brads which are a bit harder to come by. DeWalt wins for me though, but make sure you wear a belt as it pulls your trousers down if its hanging off a loop. With hilarious consequences.

nah, you'll be reet.

I don't have the joist depth to drill I'm afraid so it's notching, which I am within limits of, or raising. So is essentially what tray is "less shit" than the others with a standard drain.

I was going to get the McAlpine 53mm low profile job with the actual metal grill. Think I trust that more than the "bundled with" specialist jobbie of the central hidden Mira (attached). Also means id have to raise the tray. Pros and cons I guess.

Any shower tray recs? I've sourced these 2 and my shower is going to be a Mira so would it beneficial to combine it with the Mira tray or is it all much the same? For what it's worth, a top left drain would be useful to me and save a 45° bend in my run which can only be a good thing but is the Mira worth the hassle and 100 more notes. I liked the Mira with the central hidden drain as well but I would prefer to add my own McAlpine and that one was some custom specific job.

Think the AI moves things slightly. The toilet I guess needs to be centered to the window for aesthetic reasons, think it was more like 20cm away in reality.

Praise those big arsed ladies who can't fit into pentagon showers. That's the danger of your missus being an Instagram obsessive. These fancy things look good on paper but not in reality.