Super_Paulie

yep, works flawlessly with my Google Home.

a few clout nails underneath will stop that happening. Maybe Gapotape? big money for the quantity involved though. Whole thing seems like a big challenge whatever way you look at it.

rockwool and netting would be better than nowt for sure. To echo what people have said here though, this job will be horrendous. Its awful cutting and dropping it in from above, never mind lying on your back in a freezing crawl space. Id say this will be the worst job youve ever done, especially in the quantity you speak of. Make sure the vents are clear so you get air flow under your floor. If like my place about 90% of them were blocked or collapsed, i simply cut mine out and replaced with high flow versions which bridged the cavity above and went straight under the floor. You can get nice looking ones to suit the style of the house, metal grid face etc. Curveball, you could always deliberately cut some PIR short and foam them in all round? Have someone measure underneath and another person above ground cutting and passing it through.

i used the clear matt and its nice stuff. Flood it on with a roller, leave it 24hrs. Rub down with an orbital on 240. Then flood it again, leave another 24hrs. Sand back again with 240. One final coat but wipe it down until its "dry". Left it a week before putting anything on it, jobs a good un.

i was in the same boat when the missus decided last minute she didnt want surface mounted spots on the vaulted ceiling. I found some very thin lights from Alusso. Yeah, usual stuff you expect from the likes of Amazon but they are really slim. I actually prefer them much more than my "more legit" Tapo bulbs as when they change colour they fade between them, the Tapo GU10s just go hard from one colour to the next, less impressive. I battened out 50mm over my joists/insulation and also removed a small section of it behind each light just to give it a bit more breathing room, then used a light-box from Wago to make the connections. Probably overkill as these are always stone cold. Alusso Anyways, i use the RGB bluetooth version which are more like 30mm but you can get standard white ones that are like 19mm. I bought a ton of spares for when the company inevitably go under.

I completely foamed up between the floor and walls after plastering with FM330. Glad I did, finishes it off nicely. Foamed everything I could to be honest, quite satisfying.

not sure how much use this info is but i have some 4m bifolds, but under a steel beam and there has been no deflection. All work fine the last 10 years, it was the glass with integrated blinds that kept packing in. The beam was probably massively overspec.

A lot of my build is great. Some of it no so much but I was able to sort it/work around it. End of the day I won't recommend the builder to anyone, so his loss possibly. It's why I have trust issues with trades, always disappointed in some capacity.

builders "finished" in 2023. Then i spent a good 6 months working through the snags they left behind. Most joists are in pockets but there were a few like in the photo.

easily sorted, but you know, i shouldnt have had to do it. Crap workmanship.

Count yourself lucky. I found this beauty on the entrance to my new upstairs bedroom.

the most bizarre request ive ever heard i think. Not like you're showing them off to visitors.

my trusty, flimsy titan has got me through my build. He's had a rough life so will be out to pasture cleaning the car when he retires. Cost me more for the bags and the filter than the actual vac if i recall.

i just connected up my velux blackout blinds (internal) at the weekend. They connect to a pre-installed power plug on the side of the integras and its marked as 24v. The window themselves are 240v but that obviously goes to a transformer in the head of the window which you cant see. I didnt see any options to have these controlled "hard-wired" so to speak, and i did look into it at the time as it made more sense from a reliability standpoint. However the remote button has worked fine but i usually just ask google to open them for me.

actually, ive told you a load of boll0cks there. I used full "normal blocks" in the main wall and then used therms* above "flat" as they bridge the cavity and into the old roof space. I wanted that additional thermal protection at the top, plus they support no weight. *it was the skanky Wickes alternative as i coudlnt get therms the same day. Edges like razor blades.