Super_Paulie

🤴 Thank you my liege.

I guess why use the plywood at all? Just to smooth over any wonkyness in the chipboard?

i wont argue with that experience, thanks Nick. Just so im on the same page, i always thought the ply screwed over the subfloor was so that if it needs to come up in the future then you dont have to destroy the subfloor. Surely gluing the ply to the subfloor will make that impossible? I assume im just overthinking this.

That's what I did in my porch, just forced the chipboard down onto the fibre-bouncy spreaders 👍 Thanks Nick, appreciate the info. Any reason for 6mm ply as opposed to a cement based board? I'm thinking for heat transfer.

Evenin. I'm onto planning my bathroom and looking for advice and general opinions, which will be ongoing... Searching buildhub via Google seems to have gone by the wayside and I can't seem to word what I want in the site search so here I am. I'm going to extend my UFH to the small bathroom (3x3m) and I'm struggling to find the build-up that would be best. For info the bathroom doesn't really need it, putting it in just to take the edge off a cold floor when barefoot. My initial plan is PIR between joists, pipes clipped to it (or spreaders). The original floorboards need to go, so this is where I'm struggling for info. Replace subfloor with chipboard/ply? Then if I want to tile, do I need to go over this with say 6mm cement board? Insulated tile backer is adding insulation that I don't need. I assume I don't tile directly into the subfloor. Cheers friends.

i used Soudal and can recommend. I also nicked from Egger from work and wasnt as impressed with that one.

i have carpet in 1 room and LVT in the other. The carpeted room has the underlay that is designed for UFH (ThermalStream) but just the standard carpet that was there before i installed the system, i'll change for low tog once the building work is done as its the main route from front to back of the house. I can tell you that the carpeted room struggles in comparison. The back room is almost always between 21 and 23 but the carpeted room struggles to get beyond 21 no matter how long you run it. If that sort of temp is your bag then no worries, but i like it warm. Its not bad, its just no where near as effective as the room with LVT. My manifold mixer is 43.

mine was the inside face, flush with the block. I attached a 10mm aerogel with spray adhesive and them foamed the edges to the block. Finally covered in plasterboard when i did the full wall, avoiding a join at that point. Seems to have worked, no noticeable cold spots here and previously the steel was absolutely freezing.

interested in the body dryer. Any good?

did the very same. Cut them off and replaced with the in-line Wago light boxes for each spot.

Looks like a finished refurb in an Albanian prison, fair play to ya.

I have a goalpost type setup with the post flush to the block. I attached a sheet of aerogel to that and foamed the edges before plasterboarding, attached with foam rather than traditional adhesive. The upright leads to a comically oversized beam that has been left exposed over 8m. I can tell you, the beam is cool but never cold and it seemingly has very little effect on the rooms temperature which I have at 23° daytime and 21 evening. Aerogel might seem expensive but could be an option?

i got my velux integras from Roof Giant. Seemed to be the best price after many hours trawling the interweb.

yep, works flawlessly with my Google Home.

a few clout nails underneath will stop that happening. Maybe Gapotape? big money for the quantity involved though. Whole thing seems like a big challenge whatever way you look at it.