Super_Paulie

probably just keep an eye on it then and repair in the future if necessary. Fully expect it to crack at this point but onwards and upwards!

yeah its an absolute beast, 305x305. What can ya do, the engineers calculations came back with that and i aint gunna argue as we love it and everyone who sees it says how mad it is, a great talking point. Its marked "British Steel", id imagine it sat as surplus from a car park before it ended up in my house. Yeah it needs fire protecting, thats a christmas job. Anyways, so caulking the corners is not something to do? i'll just leave it then and caulk in the future when/if it cracks.

As I'm at the decorating stage, got a question for you guys. I have a hefty steel beam, with a small, maybe 2 inch section of plasterboard and skim above it and then the ceiling. Although this joint is fine currently, I'd imagine the house is still settling and thus the join will likely crack, no doubt as soon as I'm finished decorating. Would it be an advantage to mist coat, then go along the wall/ceiling join with decorators caulk before my final coats of paint? In my mind this will add a flexible joint in that section that will crack if it's just skim. Any opinions?

ive ordered some SBR so i'll go with that. Cheers guys.

You see, that's where I'm at. The internet was all this way or that way, and so far on here I've got the same. To be fair I painted my last wall and when I removed the tiles they came away like they weren't even attached in the first place. Not sure if that's a good or bad thing but I never experienced any issues in their lifetime. Really looking for a definitive answer on this, maybe run a poll?

Afternoon guys. My kitchen is ready to mist coat after a fortnight waiting for the fresh skim to dry. However, the middle third (above worktop but below wall units) is to be tiled across it's full length. I don't really want to leave bare plaster behind my units so I was going to mist them and then just whack some paint on to keep it nice and clean, but what about the section to be tiled? Should I just leave that bare plaster and then use something like SBR there? As usual, multiple conflicting advice online so buildhub to the rescue hopefully.

i did as Mike says, but i was moving 15mm. Sleeved in 22mm conduit, propped into place and then mortar back in. Also done the same job but used airtight expanding foam (FM330) as well as it was too awkward to get the mortar in without it being a mess and that has worked totally fine as well.

whatever happened to that gaff that was built on an old barge or tanker or something? the whole thing was an incredible watch.

i will move onto HA when i have finished building the place, but for now Google does what i need it to do (barely) like open the velux's and turn on lights that have no switches yet etc. All my Sonoff minis can be flashed to work locally, so when i have the time i'll move onwards and upwards.

I have pretty much every switch in my house running through Sonoff minis. So as well as potentially burning the house down im also sending everything I do to China. However they haven't let me down, work perfectly, and my bank balance remains at £0 so I haven't been robbed yet.

for what its worth, i have 100mm centres in a 30mm pug with Thermal Stream underlay but my original carpets and its average at best. That carpet will be going in the bin once i have finished the building work and getting something that is borderline invisible to get a quicker response. The back room with LVT is 4 times the size but heats up significantly quicker.

so you have flow but the Δt is 0... im not sure how that would be possible. Have you tried removing the actuators from those loops and just running them open to see if its actually flowing, is there any warmth at all?

for info i foamed in some PIR, levelled the sill with ply and looped the DPM over onto the ply and stapled it down, ready for a window board. Rightly or wrongly!

Hi guys. After some quick advice on one of my windows. I'm about to board the reveals, but the lower cill has no cavity closer like my other windows but it does have a DPM as a cavity tray going into the outside leaf. How am I meant to detail this, merely drop an insulated board over the top of the DPM? I can see outside brick under the frame of the window so not sure the best way to proceed. Cheers guys

thats weird, that never used to be the case at all. Still, good news on the sign off.