janedevon

Many thanks ill look into them, so confusing and contradicting views all over, i need to get some insulation in there today as i think it will be easier before boarded on monday so because breathable membrane is used i still beed to allow a 50mm gap between any insulation and the membrane?

Hi guys, main house is now insulated and being boarded, we are onto the garage now, this is a room with a loft above the loft will have 300 mm of roll type insulation but my question is the eaves, it is a semi vaulted celing and there is a big space at an angle down to the soffits, just breatheable felt above before tiles. so can i pack batts of insulation into the voids as long as its not touching the felt to avoid wicking.? Or is there a better option, rafters are 600 centres so a batt fits,in well. thanks

How did you get on and who,did you use, im currently looking for ours, a standard straight run stair with returns to eaves and a 5 m run of glass ballustrade just had a quote of £6k without glass and another 1.2k to fit not sure my budget will stretch so want alternatives, we would like oak and glass.

Thanks guys, we werent getting away with it had to get it done, no one oddly wanted to know far too busy, eventually got someone booked for monday, for the small price of £420!!!! daylight robbery but hey ho something else crossed off the list.

Roughly £90 per sq m including steel reenforcing throughout, comcrete pour grind and burnish, seal.

The guys wanted c32 when they came to polish they reckon it was nearer c40 said great for us a so hard wearing not so great for them 7 days grinding. !!!

So the next stage in water conmection is the need for a chlorination test as my run of 25mm pipe is over 50 meters, has anyone done this and any idea of cost! thanks

Mine arrived today will,be,in situ over the weekend ill update then ps it looks bloody huge , vent axia kinetic b

Is,your,vaulted,celing open in lounge area? Very similar to ours,if so we will have a balcony overlooking lounge , looking great there!!!

I get so,confused over warm roof cold roof, the area im insulating,is as im led to believe a warm roof ie open to habitable rooms was advised to not bother with batten and could insulate up to sarking as a breathable membrane is being used, the area beyond where all the ducting is going, is what i thought a cold roof so boarded below and will have 2 huge layers of rockwool over rafters before boarding. see how easily im confused is your roof space habitable? And why is it a cold roof not a warm one lol

Plumber will be insulating water pipes just hasnt been able to get in as floor was being polished

Only tied with old electrical flex at present just to neaten it up we up to 200 of duct and not,finished yet,, in between rafters ive put a layer under duct before putting some over the top

Ok so its now insulation time, started today with what the timber frame company had left me as spare. a few questions if you knowlegable lot could help out, im going 180mm frametherm topped with 25mm celotex then vcl prior to boarding. do i go right down to soffits with insulation? and what happens where my warm roof meets cold roof? Do i continue my frametherm right down? in the eaves there will be celotex 140mm between and behind studwork and what happens on the flat spaces above the dormers im putting 300 mm of earthwool over voids before boarding do i continue my batts all the way up as well? couple pics to help Pic 2 shows where warm roof will meet cold roof near the miriad of ducting

The boss spent 10 hours on Sunday with something that looked like a big angle grinder with diamonds on the pad went around all edges about 7 times.

Thanks guys, very little mainenance maybe a reseal after 2 years if it ever gets heavily scuffed it can be repolished and sealed, just got to keep it covered while boarding and first fixings finish. incredibly skilled proud workers who,did,this job we are really pleased and monday the garage/ family room gets done with a different finish!!!! glad we went for this option as it should last for years.

So main house is polished and sealed took 6 days for the 2 guys, they ended up bringing in 2 machines that weighed a tonne each, through the grits then polished and sealed 100sqm back on Monday to do the garage which isnt aggregate show its a powerfloated finish with a high polished end result.

Likewise Dave im putting my main system out in a family room with the projector, in the lounge looking at a decent soundbar, the yamaha 2500 is coming down in price and has great reviews, possibly a sonos system for music. its a tough decision but i see no harm in overwiring speaker cable to possible future requirements.

So 3 days in and apperently its going to take another 4 days minimum, a really hard concrete is proving hard work for the diamond grinders floor keeps needing to be wetted to cool machines 16 grit to 3000 is taking its time some 10 bags of dust so far and hardly making a dent in the concrete, some aggregate showing through and looking good.

thanks guys will ask the polishers today what they recommend, apparently we have a super strength concete so should be tough wearing, floor being damped down this morning to keep the machines cool ! should be some good colour though as we have local limestone so shades of yellows pinks and reds starting to show through against the grey concrete.

Floor polishing started today the guys bought a genarator the size of a caravan, looking forward to the result in 3 days !!!!

quick question do i need to leave a 50mm gap under sarking board when i put this in? On top of sarking i have breathable felt counter batten then batten then slate? getting confused after so mich reading as to wether i need to leave this gap when i fill between rafters thanks

Thanks yes just tried a bit split a batt into 3 so got 140 plus 40 ish and looks fine, means i can save a few quid theres 10 or so packs over

Guys when timber frame company left i got left a good few bales of frametherm 35 unused, the thng is they are 140mm, obviously i was aiming to use 2x90mm but is there anyway i can use these up, is packing two in between rafters detrimental or can i use these with something else to top it up? Could save me a few quid

We manually unwound each roll on floor space then fed through a run pulled to location of manifold left a little slack and cut and fixed to plenum then moved to next hole until roll ran out. All 20 ports on manifold will be used when we get a few more meters of duct.

Thanks all 11 hours we have all,plenums in place and most of duct runs in ans oddly we have run out of duct none left at all maybe need another 20meters used up 200 i think the problem was our house is open plan and living in roof space, so a lot had to go through rafters both sides using up more duct than the plans said i think they asumed a normal flat roof. left all ducting near position of manifolds to be connected after the weekend fun day, just got to work out best way of insulating duct in rafters as its stealing my insulation space. l