8ball

Thanks Ferdinand I had not thought of doing it that way...the more ideas the better ?

Hey guys this has been on my mind for a while so thought I'd post it here, I have a stone resin 1600x900mm shower tray and it weighs a considerable amount so was wondering the best method of moving it into position. The tray is a tight fit with walls on 3 sides (1 long and 2 short) so I have to be clever about it. The manufacturer informs to lay the tray onto acetic silicone so no cement base involved, the floor is 18mm ply with extra noggins between joists for extra support, the ply has been sealed with a SBR coating then Aquaseal tanking. I also have full access to the floor from below if that helps in any way. Any tricks and ideas for maneuvering the tray into position will be much appreciated ?

Thanks for the replies and information guys, as always buildhub users to the rescue ? ?

Ah I see thanks for explaining

Good solution Oz07 ?

Really sorry but so new to this so if I'm being a bit dumb then please forgive me, I don't understand how I would only get about 8mm if I apply 6mm of adhesive to the wall and 6mm of adhesive to the tile back.

So if I got a 6mm notched trowel and applied 6mm to wall and then BB'd the tile another 6mm that would be a total of 12mm of adhesive so should be OK yes?

I am currently trying to pick out a trowel for some bathroom tiling but I am getting contradicting information about how thick the adhesive needs to be for my tile size which is 600x300x9mm, I will be back buttering the tile so would a 6mm notched trowel be adequate? Never tiled before so wanting to make sure I purchase the correct tools for the job. Cheers guys

My plasterer is finishing the bathroom today so I am planning the resin stone shower tray install and had a question, I have an Aquaseal tanking kit which I plan to apply to the walls, tile board and the plywood floor after which I will lay my tray onto tile adhesive and seal around the edges with Silkaflex and using excess for the upstand seal . So my question is is Silkaflex EBT alright to apply over Aquaseal without any weird reactions? Cheers guys

I'm all about getting this sorted so stripping is def an option, its had 5 - 6 coats over last 6 months so I bet it will take some shifting.

But how is the Iron coming in contact with the oak? I thought the Danish oil would stop this....humph

I am about to blow a fuse as my new oak kitchen countertops are getting black marks from certain metal objects such as cans that have contained food (not soft drink cans) and the bottom of some of my pots and pans. The marking does not happen if the item is dry, it only happens if the item is wet. I have done tests and it is nothing to do with heat, I never put items straight of the hob onto the work surface anyway. I went to great effort to apply many coats of Barrattine Danish Oil to try and protect the new worktops and now this has happened, I am gutted ? Can anyone please please tell me what the hell is going on

Thanks for the info Ferinand, I did Google it but it was about 50% say yes and 50% say no so I thought I'd ask the experts?️ on Buildhub ?

Morning buildies?..any thoughts on the above please

Hi guys I'm just double checking here but do I need non return valves between the my Monsoon shower pump and the thermostatic shower mixer, I'm going towards no as it would interfere with the pumps operation in sensing when water is needed by the drop in pressure and this wouldn't happen if I fitted non returns. ? Pics of pump just in case its relevant - sorry for the rotation of the 1st pic.

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Just found these and what a rip off for 2x 20mm bits of chrome plate threaded pipe, I like PeterW's idea better as the extension is hidden behind the wall and shroud anyway https://www.showerdoc.com/grohe-07130-20mm-extension-piece-0713000m

The shroud has a little sleeve inside it which after fitting you pull out over the 3/4 nut ?

Now that's what I'm talking about, Thanks PeterW. do these fittings have a washer or an olive in between them or is it just a bit of PTFE tape as you suggested

I need some kind of extension in between the wall plate elbow and the Grohe fitting

I though buying Grohe would have a good design and easy fitting but I really regret it now?

OK so I'd like to fit this wall plate elbow behind the plasterboard cavity which could take the 1/2 supplied Grohe fitting, Grohe fitting BUT

As in my pics the shrouds are 35mm in depth + 1mm for the seal up against the tile so the thread needs to be between 34 - 42mm to putrude through to enable the connection of the mixer bar fixings. If the thread is 30mm it doesn't clear the shroud and you cant tighten the 3/4 bolt from the mixer bar.

Thanks for the reply Onoff, so how would I manage to fix the 90 degree fitting to the wall inside the cavity where my pipes come up from the floor as the whole weight of the shower mixer bar sits on the hot and cold connection? So is the 1/2 bsp is just a standard compression fitting as on a radiator so I can go and take a nut from an old 1/2 fitting and then use a new olive?

I have purchased a Grohe Thermostatic shower with an exposed bar mixer and have been trying to get my head around the fitting of the mixer bar to the hot and cold supply with the 1/2 to offset 3/4 BSP threaded parts supplied. This is the only helpful video I could find from Grohe showing how to fit the shower but it does not go into detail about the fittings needed to connect the 1/2 to offset 3/4 part to. I was going to ditch the offset fittings supplied by Grohe and get a Bristan Bar Valve wall mount as in the pic below which would enable me to fit the bar mixer with its 3/4 fittings directly to it. After getting the Bristan part home I realised that the 3/4 BSP threads had a measurement of 30mm in length and I need at least 34 - 42mm so I returned the part back to screwfix and started searching for a shower wall plate that had the 3/4 fixings but with the longer thread but I cannot find such an item. It seems the standard length is 30mm all the fitting kits. So back to using the parts supplied by Grohe which are: So with my limited knowledge of plumbing which stretches to JG speedfit what parts do I need to enable me to fit these stupid Grohe parts. I'm fitting the shower to plasterboard wall with a tile covering so the thickness should total about 24mm and will have no access to the rear as its a solid wall. Any help would be fantastic as at the moment as I feel like having a nervous breakdown from the week I've had.