kandgmitchell

My wife's laundry room when we were in the static was a cheap 6'x4' shed with just the cold water supply insulated. We went through a full winter including some snow with no issues other than a bit of complaining about going outside to visit it.

Congratulations - worth sticking with it.

Done properly, making sure the pipe is protected and the foundations are kept clear and founded below then the pipe should be at no more risk than lying quietly in your garden. Hence why the likes of Wessex and other WCs regard these things as low risk.

Presumably the diversion costs are less than adding a 0.75m-0.8m strip of extension to the build?

I'd say there's quite a lot of difference between diverting and building over. Building over - depending on Water Company if you meet their standard criteria you may not have to contact them for a formal build-over agreement. Wessex for instance lists six criteria, meet them and you just carry on (subject to BC) keeping photographic records. Diverting - you will need to submit a design, pay a fee, have the sewer CCTV'd before and after. Build manholes on the change of direction ensuring there is still enough fall between the two diversion points. Do it all within your property and have it inspected by the WC. If the sewer is less than say 1.5m deep and you can extend to at least 500mm beyond the furthest point out from the house my vote would be for building over for simplicity ( assuming no internal manholes). This is subject of course to the limited information provided.....

How far out were you expecting to extend?

Really? We had the choice of two Marley types. We found Danwood were very good at dealing with all the snags at the end of the year defects period. We haven't so far needed to make a warranty claim but I guess being Poland based any visit has to fit in with current builds nearby.

Surprised that a bathroom door is catching on the floor. There should be a decent clearance under it for MVHR airflow into the bathroom and out via the extract duct. Are you the first owner or a later purchaser? Could someone have re-tiled the floor? Either way they are a European composite door with a rebate in the edge of the door itself that closes against the face of the lining rather than sitting inside it like UK doors tend to. If I recall the hinges look like this but on a larger scale. Perhaps they are adjusted by screwing in or out either of the two parts? Others may be able to help.....

All the OP needs is an email to the adjoining owner saying " is it ok to deal with this matter by email and is this the email address you want me to use?". Then use email. That will satisfy the requirements of the order. As for witnessed signatures and using registered post, therein lies it no longer being a sensible negotiation between neighbours and becomes much more of an issue leading to involvement of expensive professionals. The OP needs to cover themselves by following the requirements of the PW Act properly but in a way that does not encourage the adjoining owner to become over concerned about what is after all, minor work. As for using post over email it would still be available to an unscrupulous person to post a letter the Friday before their neighbour goes on a two week holiday and still claim they didn't object, although of course a dispute occurs if there is no actual agreement to the works within the Act's timescales. The benefit of email is that you can check it from all over the world and I'm afraid it is being for everyday correspondence rather than just being confined to the workplace.

So this is a new dwelling that replaces one that is now demolished. Who prepared your building regulation drawings for the new dwelling and what did they propose in order to satisfy the building regulation requirements which say: (3) Rainwater from a system provided pursuant to sub- paragraphs (1) (roofs) or (2) (paved areas) shall discharge to one of the following, listed in order of priority: (a) an adequate soakaway or some other adequate infiltration system; or, where that is not reasonably practicable, (b) a watercourse; or, where that is not reasonably practicable, (c) a sewer. That is the starting point. If building control have approved your proposal then provide those details to the planners as your surface water strategy. It would be unusual for planners to say "aha, we don't agree, we think you ought to be doing x" because they know nothing about the technicalities so should go along with what building control thinks is suitable.

So first things first. What is your proposal for dealing with rainwater from the dwelling? If work is underway what did building control agree?

If the adjoining owner consents to your proposals then there is no "dispute". If there is no dispute then no party wall agreement is required. However, you are obliged to act in a reasonable manner and not cause undue inconvenience. If you do then a dispute can arise during the works and then it all kicks off. Be aware also that the adjoining owner may have rights to support from your land in common law which are above and beyond the Party Wall Act so don't undermine his foundations or garden. Since the Electronic Communications Order 2016, email is an acceptable way of dealing with party wall matters. Negotiation is the key here and for all such small works otherwise you are just pouring money into surveyors pockets...

That was in reference to your trial holes not the main works - although if the garage founds are ok you wouldn't be excavating for the extension I guess.

From your sketch I can't see how you are not going to be excavating within 3m and below the neighbour's foundations. You will need to notify a minimum of a month before the work. You only need a party wall award if the neighbour either objects or fails to consent within 14 days of your notification. For such small work therefore you need to get them on board. Fully explain what you want to do as most people are reasonable and only want to be re-assured that their property isn't going to fall down. Explain that you need to formally notify them (but would have out of courtesy anyway) and when you do could they please just confirm back that they have no objection. If that happens then get on, do no more than you said you would and get the holes back filled asap.

The easiest is not to second guess BC. Get them around to do the final inspection and ask them what reports/certificates they will need to issue a completion certificate. It will include an as built SAP which needs a feed in figure from an airtightness test but some ask for flow rates from extracts etc, etc. Just get a list and tick them off as you collect them and forward the lot on as a job lot.