Big Neil

bang on chaps - thanks for the pictures, makes sense to me now.

gotcha.

Well done that man - exactly the sort of thing i was thinking Right you are - OS I'll take 'SET' to be full design strength. 'CURED' is clearly part way there. I assume enough of a way to walk on etc?

and have just noticed i said 4 storey where i meant 4 bed and 2 storey -

This is the sort of thing i had coming to mind. Ruthless efficiency etc. why shouldn't it be? I posted actually because i got to thinking of that grand designs years ago were the huf-haus went from foundations to being ready to move in, in about 4 days. It's not a topic that is really discussed in particular depth much, just in anecdotal fashion i didn't say it can be ensured or to ignore it, but why not consider measures to mitigate the effects. Tent the lot for example. OK maybe not cheap, but a possible option. BUt in either case its not about giving context, it's about fag packet ideas and brainstorming. Say 5 years if you like, but justify it. Asking to discount some factors is simply a method to establish a baseline. Thin joint for example you can apparently lay down to zero degrees, so using this might be a way to mitigate cold in a cavity wall build. EPS is water resistant so building icf is a way to mitigate at least some of the rain factors INteresting - see that ties in almost perfectly with @scottishjohn figure of 28 days, so break ground and construct foundations including pour - leave to set for up to 28 days - start constructing first rise during this time then pour on day 28 - and so on. I suppose if you left it long enough after the first poor, and were using ICF internal walls also, you could do some of the chasing for the electrical bits/plumbing during that time??

no rain or adverse wind etc etc

theoretically how long would it take to build a normal 4 story house (just the icf part) up to roof height, lets say something around 220 - 250 m2 wall space, using an 'average' icf system, if one includes concrete setting time - lets assume you have an experienced crew of lets say 5 people. Also assume that you can carry on stacking after the first pour before the concrete is fully set.

If there's ever a Buildhub annual puntest - bags me you as a partner

So maybe - OSB as the board, stretch MEmbrane over that, vertical battens and counterbattens (per @JSHarris) then the final roof covering.

is the menbrane over the in line battens taught?

well i thought so , but i'm sure ive seen it as described before, at least on the net somewhere possibly on here

bang on that thanks. So just lay the board on, screw down and bobs your uncles yes?

I don't quite understand another thing, please can someone in the know confirm. I get that Sarking boards increase the strength of the roof as a whole. What ideally should they be made out of? Can you just use normal sheets of say OSB or Ply etc? I know there are plenty of other products available, But is there a specific reason why you wouldn't use either of these for example. Also, If i've read correctly the membrane goes on top of the rafters but under the sarking? Why? Thank you all once again.

I'm probably misunderstanding, but Gypliner is the brand name for a steel stud system yes, BG being the producer? So BG Gypliner? Also, when we talk about 50mil in this context we mean in the same dimension as the 2 inch of a 2X4 timber yes? where the perpendicular face is 100mm?

that Lewis deck stuff if i've read correctly says as about an average of 50mm build up on top of joists. Seemed quite good to me. Then the normal rolling of insulation below. they reckon about £20 ish m2 for the corrugated deck and then the screed at circa £15, plus the insulation below of course, I was thinking of it as a replacement effectively for ply/chip and either spreader plates below or whatever buildup on top.

is it all interchangeable, in much the same way as 2X4 is 2X4. Is all steel studwork the same mr @nod. Where is the best place to get it?

I've been trying to find more out about this Lewis deck stuff. Any word? I have found nothing like it even.

Another supplier maybe with whom credit hasn't been withdrawn? Which Rationel windows did you go with by the way?

Why aren't studs just box sections. Would they not be slightly stronger that way..

I love a good bit of retarding of an afternoon. I'll PM you my Wife's number shortly, she can make you feel better about your relative level of retardedness.... And for the avoidance of doubt, i'm the retard - not the wife..I just meant she could confirm it..

right - well unless mr @nod - who i believe uses this during the course of his normal daily life, comes up with a pretty good reason not to use it. I'm sold. there must be something i'm overlooking as otherwise surely everyone would use it, at least in respect of the mass market producers anyway.....no sod it, anyone!!

Right. SO...if it's cheaper per length and if, as a couple of youtubeos i've watched suggest, noggins aren't required (although I imagine could still be added if required), why isn't everyone using it?

What little googling i've done shows it about the same price as timber. Is that anything close to correct?

So just chase up a wall maybe behind a rim joist or some such? When going from room to room do you run back up the wall just to avoid doorways etc? PS marginally off topic but has just occured to me. When doing the cable bashing then does it make logistical sense once having marked all the socket positions to run around with a chasing doo-dar (thinking block inner leaf/isotex type materials) creating the channels as a single task instead of (chase, run cable, chase, run cable ...)?

Basic question i'm sure but as usual with my questions I cant find anyone asking the question the same way as I would. Assuming (as is normally the case) my consumer unit is downstairs; when i'm running cables upstairs, do I run then through a conduit which gets hidden somewhere, or up through a stud wall before they all get run down to the various points of use (socket, lightswitch, light fitting etc)?