zoothorn

Hi joe. Yup exactly my idea- thi dpm's thouragh approach is sensible, I think I'm ok to crack on. Yes so my ledges will be on door plant-on stops side, & set in a bit from edges. Joe and also @Gav_P re. attatching ledges and braces to t&g boards: I notice on my existing doors, as in pic (most recent I put up) some fixings marks (look like HD staples or summink) on the face side/ front of door, filled in & unobtrusively small. Is this a common way to fix A to B here? or is it just screws from otherside/ rearside thru ledge > t&g board. These doors are 'vg amateur standard', so possibly he winged it. thanks

Bc it'll likely be so stupidly complicated I wouldn't make head nor tail of it. Besides it wouldn't take into account a builder leaving me in the lurch having a sloping ceiling (uniformly across, not like Onoff's ^ door) so a door cannot open inwards, unless 6" is taken off the top. This cannot be an option. Nor is having no door. So Im left with one possible option.. aren't I? unless I'm missing something- always a possibility I admit. If your point was to check in order to establish which way round I have to put the door.. as I said it's n/a: I can only physically have it opening out.

I wouldn't call them stairs, just 3 shallow steps. I don't see how its relevant, if the door can only open one way though Ash. And surely if the steps are relevant, then with the door opening away from them, it's "safer" anyway. Anyone comment? it's certainly a worthwhile Q. thanks zH

You mean spin it back round, but add another layer on-? Im getting confused now. All I'm understanding as how to do it, is following the way my www photo eg implies, similarly gav_p's "wrong way" 1st pic. Is this the correct thinking, if I don't really want to add another layer to it? (I think it'll be way too heavy if I did this- my frame isn't super solid). I guess you just push the ledges inwards a bit so they miss the frame plant-on jamb strips (yet to add).

@Gav_P ok I can see similarities, your door's back-side is resting on the frame strips, plus the handle is on the 'back' side too. But is this way 'unusual' or 'wrong'? Its just whether I'm thinking right, or if I've missed something obvious in the method Ive explained.

This is what I'm thinking is the only way to do it. Ok the door on the RIGHT in this eg, would be what my brace & ledge door would look like, from the camera pov, with the hinges on the LHS. So inside the room/ reverse side (to RHS door below).. Id have the correct "back" of the door (with 3x ledges and 2x braces). The only thing different being the handle/thumb/ latch/ opening thing, which might have to be on the wrong room side.. due to the catch section like photo here, needing to be on this side. Am I I thinking right?

Onoff this won't work in mine. The door has to open twds camera, out into adjacent bedroom. I think I might have sussed it tho: please correct me if Im wrong. Ok the "back" of the door I think can go 'as usual' within the room.. if I set the 3x perp braces in from the edge 3/4". So then the "inside face" or the "back" of the door rests on these three frame strips. Usually its the "front" of a brace & ledge door that rests on these 3 frame strips.

The thing that suddenly becomes apparant, is bc I can't have the usual door-opening-into-the-room (due to builder 1ft down fkn situation continuing to ruin my plans/ meaning the sloped ceiling area in doorway obstructing any door opening-in), & bc the 2 sides to a ledge & brace door are very different, I hadn't thought of the "back side" would have to instead of being in the room, be on the other side. And the usual "front" side as you go to enter a room, be the back side. So I have a door that looks totally wrong way round. Is there anything I can do?

Chaps im about to make my door. Got 20 mm t&g redwood, 25 x 100 whitewood brace timber. Have my other two bedroom doors to copy, approximately. I thought go 20 mm ( other two bed doors 14 mm t & g) for a bit more cold barrier, this adjacent bedroom being so cold. Up to now id thought hinges rhs ( door opening into adjacent bedroom, so pic below, it will open twds cam). But with a useful window, to get air in summer, blocked off by the door opening this way, now thinking hinges lhs. This will allow a bit more light in too. Is there any reason i cant swap sides? Pic to remind..

You're not, your diddling with yr iphone & watching it.

Clarkson.

Bc PeterW does. I do what he does.

Good- tbh if Id known only £17 Id have redone the whole lot ideally/ but where & how to dispose of orange sh*te/ and v.wasteful, polar bears etc.

I was a bit dissapointed with the squirrelapult. I watch too many simpsons i think/ expecting it to get fired waaay over onto nxt door house roof.

Can't for 10 days until delivered joe, so a cold on me todd xmas for me. But starting making door monday- alot of cold surely coming in from adjacent freezing bedroom, even with blanket blocking some. Also think a dollop's coming in reveals, & window & doors: builder leaving me room for only 1cm of PIR @ all 3 window reveals: another thing not happy about. I did forget to put PIR under the sill too, & had room to, so I could add on 25mm (+ a new w'sill on). But Im clutching at straws.

@PeterW very useful link: actually I couldnt do wickes/ no delivery slots.. but homebase comes up trumps again: Knauf Earthwool Loft Roll 44- 100mm @ £17 x 3, £12 delivery (in 10 days tho).. & were doing a '4 for 3' on this.. so 1 spare can shove some above my freezing bathroom, tho its already got 400mm up there. So, total will be 300mm. Tbh I just couldn't cope putting 200mm more up, room to work etc. At least it'll be better seated, gone up the wall & gable end halfway up. Not optimal but gets me to B.Regs (I think @ 300mm), and gaps almost all minimised. £90 job inc hatch = really excellent. Dunno how the hatch's 50mm polystyrene can be B.Regs passable, if 300mm min needed in rest of the loft.. but fatso said in his youtube clip it "passes B.Regs".. so I just hope to goodness this includes new builds not yet signed off, not just additions to existing buildings already signed off. But in theory I guess I can 'glue' more PIR or fluff onto it. Great help- thanks.

Hi PeterW- hey thats bloomin fab. I had no idea.. tho wickes wouldn't deliver paint to me out here/ but will try, & similar, from other places if not poss. tbh I never thought of having it delivered at all due to size. guess there's no major rush/ can crack on with my door in meantime. @Onoff squirrel p*ssing me off now. I like the furry sods hoppin over my lawn even digging up nuts i dont mind, but not in loft.. they're LOUD & pee/poop make quite a patch vs mice. how the feck to block them tho: Im top of my ladder getting to gutter, & gap is behind them along eaves side, but then the pitch front side going up higher/ no idea how, until balcony made & can get up here.

TP or Huw's Gray here. Dont think I said £250 Peter. Are you in a road rage traffic jam? I wish I could find £20 rolls here, but £50 is what I see for 10sqM of orange fluff (3x 50 = £150.. I think maybe that's the fig you are referring to). I was assuming the orange fiberglass is the cheap stuff.. but I've yet to price things up (maybe its not cheapest? good if so).

I know he likely sourced it from jewsons, and they have only 100mm and 200mm, so my innitial assumption was 100mm. Neither other sheds tp or huw's have the oldskool orange you see. I was wondering if it could be 200mm compressed a bit/ but seems unlikely after your info. thanks. Yes I must consider then another 200mm.. crikey I just dont know how its possible with the space I dont have (& the cables which will then be mostly, or at least 50% within the fluff: is that accetpable to the BCO?)

No understood, I just wanted to match the 2nd layer Ive done (only got me half loft area done you see) to buy same for remainder. Then consider my 3rd layer. So as it measures 130mm expanded.. what do you think it likely is then? 100mm just me manhandling it plumping it up?

@PeterW or anyone.. i'm having trouble actually measuring the fluff. It seems to be 100mm between joists, but 130mm the layer ontop. is the stuff measured @ 100mm squashed in the pack, so it expands -more- when unrolled to say 130mm? I guess i just go 100mm of 3rd layer whichever it may be, in order to get to the 300mm figure.. which I think is min for B.regs? In which case I've been done over by about £150 min by builder, and it never had a chance of being up to min b.regs requirement at either 200mm, or 230mm as it seems to total, by my measurements.

So idea is it ideally goes just over lamp.... not transformer in too? Ive enough lead so xfmr can sit next to joist, but under fluff.

Would this be ok to go as my 2nd layer, @joe90 or @Onoff ? It is used at the joist level for cold roof applications (Looks same as other orange "Superglass" one, but @ 5.3m as opposed to 4.8m.. for £same.. I can complete my 2nd layer -just- with it). Its the spiel on it saying " It is used at the joist level for cold roof applications " & nothing more, not 'over joists too' like other one does. Same-same yes?

@Declan52 Declan re. my plant pots.. does the downlights' black 'junction box' fag pkt size whatnot have to go inside too? would this be a transformer, and not a junction box maybe? (in which case might this be the thing most likely to get hot.. or is it just the bulb/ lamp really the 'concern' here).

Its poorly fitted on the sloping side, yes there might be bits even missing.. just have to hope not. There will definitely be gaps here, but I cannot remedy this. But if the lower room door is considered, opening to outside, with gap under door, frame poorly stopping the cold too.. & this room's toasty even so.. then a bit of inadequacy/ gaps can still mean a toasty room. Have to see what this loft insulation redo does to the room. I guess proof's in the pud.. my thermometre's there ready.