zoothorn

I don't suppose Onoff has a clue about my plant on question.. anyway need bloomin nails for them now. lost heads best? Got a really good fit of my latch on the catch, snug & tight onto the temp stopper behind, pleased, right faff to do this.

Tbh with respect I don't think that has been established as such. Weather compensation is back in effect, afaik, once id found the thermostat setting.. & rads are hotter: so its back as it was before, just with two changes: upping heat curve, and ' unchecking' this noise reduction weird damn setting, 'letting handbrake off fully' being a way I can think might describe it now. So it seems likely it must be one, or both of these thats done the trick. The irony of any 'noise reduction' mode hardly lost on me!!

Im of the thinking the default settings, like heat curve 0.8, are set for ufh rather than rads.. & they just couldn't be bothered to set it up optimally. Tbh I wasn't expecting them to though (which they would have if i was a direct customer of theirs Im totally sure, in normal situations) due to it being on a grant, foc etc. Yes they - ought- to have ideally, in normal circumstances i agree. I think you're just asking too much of them to expect this level of tuned set up, within the situation I was fortunate to be in.

Done exactly this, not on the diagonal braces but the 3 ledges. Copied my orig C1830 kitchen door's ledges. I'll do a closer pic later. Onoff whilst your there.. One irregular ditty to think of before i nail on plant ons: my latch/ handle side of door has a bit of a warp, 5 mm only, but if i were to set my 3 x plant on strips perfectly 20 mm door depth ( plus your 1mm OCD paint allowance!) all around.. the top of the door would sit 5 mm off the plant on, & the middle of door correctly sitting on it. So my thinking is - follow - the slightly irregular door warp profile & add plant ons accordingly.. so it'll sit perfectly onto them, resulting in it closing a little proud of the frame, on the face side top rhs but hey so what. Is this is preferable to fixing plant ons perfectly @ 21 mm depth, all round.. & having an annoying gap between door and plant-on due to the warp? Or do i sort of set the latch hook plate in a bit, & sort of squeeze the door closed/ forcing the door a little each time closed.

Understood, but if i just want all available heat i can from the rad, if not all the rads, I think I can do away with the expense of installing many of these. Even 1. I understand if a trv is put in thermostat room its daft as it'll fight the main thermostat.. so that's one i defo dont need. But it gets a bit complicated with one vs another. Ok, so I have two of these valves then. At the mo Im turning one side down to half. Will this knock the rad heat down to half? Or, do I need to turn -both- down to half to achieve this?

Yes i saw you thought this.. but didn't matter I could still follow your tips. Yes hinges were originally going that side.. but thought door open might obstruct window. Also same now as bed2 doors hinges. The right choice.. i think.

CH. some progress. All rads bled/ fine. Done a 'rough balance' turning down few rads, to help push heat on to my top bedroom. Another call.. & deep in installer section the thermostat wasn't engaged/ so reset, seems ok! (Relief: the last visit young guy up from swansea said "ive just had covid, nothing to worry about" half into visit. ! Chaps from all over UK for these visits was concerning me prior to this.. so relieved visit no.10 avoided). So my approx balance, plus tweaks of: undoing a default "noise reduction" mode (letting it run free as it were), & upping heat curve to 1.5 (was 1.2 before, and 0.8 on install).. whether all responsible I don't know, but new top room temp - seems- better. It is very mild tho. So proof will be coming cold snap. Then if needed, I can do a more specific balance. But still not understanding 'lockshield'. Im not clear if i have one or two on each rad, or none at all. What i have afaict, is simply one of these, on each side of all rads: ( screwfix 33920 ). thx zoot.

@Adsibob good well i did decide on three equal steps as you can see here.. and my door hung at last. Mm precision needed to do the hinges on frame 1 st.. tricky. Pesky plant ons to do, latch to chisel out on architrave/ far the easy bit. Its perfectly skimming carpet, perfect 3 mm gap around.. but ground floor doors swell and contract alarmingly, so if i get any of this happening im stuffed. But mm spot on as is, prolly a smidge too much tbh.

Told ashp rads don't get as hot as normal CH, I checked/ they got fairly hot (in august not ideal to tell).. & thermostat's worked for 7 months!

I do appreciate the usual way is, if a bit breaks.. the normal protocol is to -hand any prob- to installers. I get that. They even told me this themselves. And I also understand yours & collective pov, is that because my rads were underperforming (but today blitzing me- weird) then as I showed you too-small rads in two rooms, the understandable assertion is.. arrows pointing to installers. I get that too. And my huge rad not heating my new room? bad settings set up likely.. more arrows pointing to installers. Leak > installers. I do appreciate explaining all this, but if I'm hamstrung unable to contact them, & aware of a 5 yr mfr warranty.. it seems reasonable to just not waste time on useless 23yr old installer "after-service" & just go the pro route regardless of it not being the 'conventional way' (&/ or even if it might go against the tide of replies). Single chaps we're known to be obdurate sods going our own way; now this might seem ungrateful... but I assure you, it is not. And here its just 2 ways to skin a cat: & in my book, one cat's dead!

Yes I totally agree. it's why I include the single -1 pipe connected wrong- installer error in my list of woes. But it's a trifling thing (& I dont blame the spotty trainee, a small mistake we all make & it only irritated me a bit.. but, exacerbated & made me angry only by the months of calls to get them to fix it, in 1 hr flat) compared to the many hardware & software issues like replacement pumps, new pcb boards sent from france 3 chaps & a full 1/2 day to fix isn't it!

Hi ProDave- as Ive said until the cows come home, the issues are not installer issues they've all been hardware & software issues: so Vaillant's to fix (if thermostat's bust, a vaillant part/ under warranty/ why would it be anyone other than vaillant to fit the replacement?? why would this be in any way, the fault of the installers??). Ive also said the installers are uncontactable. They install adequately yes (bar one pipe not connected right, 1 rad drip) but do not offer adequate/ normal aftercare. Why? because they're on a run of these installs, do minimal aftercare, a few weeks of calls.. then no answer. And said too: 3 Vaillant engineers I asked confirmed it's installed ok (bar a pipe connected wrong).. so why would I question them? You think they wouldn't have answered "poor install x,y,z" if they'd seen -any- evidence, when I asked them, "is the install ok in your opinion?"

You wouldn't believe this. Now thermostat seems broken. Heating stuck on all damn day (upped flow temp, I think some success there) rooms cooking now to uncomfortable 24.5*, desired set to my usual 18*C day temp, mild so should rarely been on. All day all rads barely a break. New fault then/ another series of calls, emails. FFS. How can I put up with this? I think now they should just be offering to replace the system tbh. Its in warranty, this will be mfr issue 6.. nearing 8 months of it.

Im sure exactly so. But I find they have limitations: you need to spend a chunk to get decent enough one that won't 'stick' in either binary positions 0 or 1, off/ on. That was my view 10 yrs ago, the only time I lived in a place with CH. So Im not rushing to get some just yet.

No, Tom Thorley Vaillant service dept, who has been absolutely fantastic (despite my anger at the wretched system, occasionally vented his way too, understandably if not ideal). He completely understands my pov of: their own lack of info to installers of where to site the indoor unit being the core reason for -all- this mess. All of it. You could not get a more professional, patient, pleasant chap on the phone & emailed info (another just pinged in). My saving grace or Id have gone insane by now. or alot more than I am.

No it's something to consider once Ive got the basics running ok I think. I go one step fwd, then a side step with vaillant today (I'm in middle of 5x emails following the call) as things are not right. Im totally exhausted now. I managed to up the heat curve, & get back to thermostat set-up (1 hr ago now) good. But: Told to set minimum and max heat temp settings: but no option to do this. AND now: the damn heating is on continuosly, with thermostat room 24* (going up up 23* a hour ago) with desired room temp 18.5*C. It shouldn't be on. So my confidence in it coming on overnight resumes, again. More emails. 2 hrs every other fkn day on it. I honestly just cannot cope with tit anymore but no choice, I have to plough on.

Haha. Right, update on my huge efforts with vaillant which as i said ive been doing whilst thread. Helpful chap in service dept, I just called about flow temp. He advised to try an alternate system set up, just as a test to see if it would UP the flow temp. Basically doing away with outside sensor & telling it to run. Then we put in higher flow temp figs, and rads went far hotter... but seemed to be on permenantly: ie the usual thermostat way i manually set temp & times.. relegated. So, useful exercise in as much as all the rads belted out heat. So i know that it is capable of doing so, finally. Not so usefully thermostat room climbed to 23*, unable to control it (apart from setting a flow temp manually) so workshop way too hot, top room tho achieved 20* for 1st time. Bu, it is suddenly very mild outside of course, so far easier to reach 20* plus. So Ive had to put it back to orig thermostat way. Ok i was told how to set my heat curve to 1.5 (a fig relating to 45* flow temp which seems what i want).. but unable to change the 'max flow temp' from 33*, which for whatever reason its set to. Weird. Tantalisingly close to achieving what i need that is up the flow temp from mid 30*'s. Also we tweaked a 'noise reduction' mode, from 24:00 - 24:00 (meaning some form of dampening, possibly he said 1 st thing AM its tamping down rads performance).. so we changed this to just overnight up until 6.30 am, then let it go as it were. Let's see. Hugely complicated. Another 1 hr call, very diligent & personable chap in service dept. But exhausting.

Im not. As said now cold snap over I will get round to it. I always want to try understand the logic of tests before I do them thats all. If a reply given like Onoffs one with '12000' info in I cannot understand 95% of I'm best to try understanding purpose/ logic of a test, to give me best chance of deciphering the results in replies.

No its not. Imagine an annoying whining hairdryer next to your bedrrom door on high, going on/ off, plus a low drone thru yr pillow.. its the irritation thing as much as the volume. Volume just wakes you, irritation keeps you awake. I cannot do those earplugs. I said to Vaillant- whole list of problems, time to sort, stress of no sleep, unable to actually run as its designed to etc, 7 months of it.. need never have been an issue, none, IF IF the wretched indoor box thing... was placed away (well away IMO) from bedrooms. I had a UT room perfect for it too back of house gnd floor! this is what infuriates me most.

@Declan52 I said I will do the single rad test. Tho I don't see the logic of it. WHEN this cold snap goes. Im so damn cold here I need every scrap of heat I can. Its only another assumption 'you wont do it!!'. Ive said I will. What is the rush? I live in wild west wales, & my plums have retreated. I want them descended before I start turnning off all my rads ok? Look remember changing after a swimming? the nuts thing? I get that.. while having a fkn shower godammit!! with steaming HW on me!! nuts!! up wherever the fk they go!! cos the air shivelles them up Declan52!! fan fkn heater on too!! me nuts!! jesuswept.

Its a small radiator tho! 1200x 500mm. I've done this very exercise anyway ProDave with one larger rad upstairs (1200 x 700mm) I turned off months ago. No discernable difference to others. That doesn't mean they didn't increace a tad, it just means due to so much cold in the house Id think, it couldn't be perceived. So the idea in fact, to me, of this 7.5kW being underpowered has no merit, with this 1x whole decent sized radiator off -&- I have another undersized (is the consensus view) in kitchen -&- an even smaller rad in bathroom (towel rail- a tiddler). So let's just call, for all intents & purposes, that it is working one & a half radiators 'load' -less- than it was doing. This strongly suggests to me then, just by logic, that 7.5kw, for the workload it is doing, is highly likely sufficient. But no, it is deemed with conviction & a consensus, that it's "underpowered". I cannae comprehendo! Its another polar-opposite-view! (the other being 'a series of installer errors from the start'.. & I see no evidence, but only 'a series of mfr errors from start'). As always- I stand to be corrected (but only if I can make sense of it tho!). thx zoot.

I dont see how this suggests anything other than what is to be expected, doing this exercise. If I had a 10kW system, turned off half rads, Id expect the remaining ones to get more attention/ heat. But also if I had a 5kW one here instead (I know is just underpowred, only slightly tho they calculated). In fact Id expect if I turned off all my rads bar one, it would get hotter. How would this suggest anything of worth tho I can't understand. If you ProDave had a flow temp setting you designated/ knew/ put in as 50*, would you know to expect to find actual readings of the flow temp at the rads (if say you had 8 rads all on) at considerably -less- than 50*? Or would you expect to read 50* at the rads? the consensus yesterday was 'Id expect to read 50*, at each rad, if my flow temp setting was 50*'. In which case, if these 50* rads all turned off for the same test, bar one, and its known thev flow temp was 50* put in as a setting........ how can this rad be expected to get hotter than 50* surely it can reach no higher? Afaik if I add one cup of Hw to another the mean temp doesn't increace.

Sorry can you repeat the Q. My DHW I'm happy with, I run a bath & its hot enough at 50*C I donmt think I need to know more do I on this?. Im totally demoralised now, I was bouyed up knowing hoping to find the delay 8am default setting.. but nothing. So will never have any heat in mornings ever. Not too much point putting the CH on now if I'm only warming a workshop properly, that isn't essential to. I have to fit my electric oil heater back to get morning warmth in bedroom, which is just essential to have. and I cant afford both systems on. depressing. infuriating too. Can someone comment on 37.8*C flow temp. Ive no idea if its a set figure, a fluctiating figure, or what but 35-38* seems to be what Im finding on rads & if I see it in a display too.. it perhaps suggests my flow temp is somewhere here'ish. I think.

It won't give me any way to go. I can make a complaint, but they wont remove it. They won't say anything other than its working fine, all checks out, & here's a £98 charge for coming out to dissuade me from further calls/ emails. It means, im utterly stumped joe unfortunately without options.

Its a workshop Declan, below ground level, next to lane, thin door to outside. I am not using it to sleep in. Up here its carpetted, french door views a room ive put alot of effort & design into ( both in fact). I just need to get this one very large radiator to work in this new bedroom, normally/ provide normal heat, coming on normal times, normal flow temp which i believe is essential: I look in the system ( so far as vaillant directed me to find it.. totally different place than on the vrc700 before) very deep within the box unit display. And it says 37.8*C. But whether this is the designated setting, or one that fluctuates so reading it gives you no real idea of what the setting is, ive no idea. So i still do not know what the flow temperature setting, put in it, is. Or what actually it is either if it keeps changing.