zoothorn

Hi Onoff, I know this is the ideal way, but I dont have the luxury/ I just cant wait 3 weeks, maybe 6 weeks in current fiasco for the small gate. I have to crack on, ( & I can in meantime measure the 8ft one at the place so this is as good as having it here). My idea was to just get the 1st post in.. this will take me 2 days min. Then figure out, if possible, if I can get post 2 in too this week: As gates are only opening inwards, Ive got to determine where the hinges go/ which side of post. If sat like my diagram, it means the posts are further apart, than if the hinges are on the 'inside face' of the posts. Im not sure which idea is 'correct'. thanks. Zoot

Yup I have seen these Joe, but have a narrow'ish gardening spade which will have to do, Im seriously up against it £wise nowadays. I do have a bar pointy one end small flat t'other end: invaluable for planting stuff. Ok so got me posts, 2x 20kg postcrete/ can get another if. So is the idea dig whatever D the 1st RHS (diagram) post is to go, 2ft 4" in my case, & for a 6x6" post.. what 12" W? 1st I have to determine how much the gate sits away from the posts, in order to position the 1st post (as well as the 2nd). As I haven't got my gates yet, likely dropped off together in 2 weeks or so when the 4ft one's in. I mean an average gap, not having the fixings yet. If that's possible. Also got to factor in a bit of leeway for adjustment: we get huge timber swelling here jamming doors galore: maybe a good 1cm additional room to the posts each side. I will be buying adjustable fixings, for both gates, knowing this swell issue here. thanks, zoot.

Ok good. Actually Id have thought it would be alot harder to get the holes accurately placed heightwise, if done before posts set in. I mean fine if youve one gate.. but if a pair of gates I mean. Ok so I got to now find clips of how to dig me holes! Would you have an idea of how much postcrete I need per hole? I guess that depends on what size I dig, but assuming I dig only what is required as a minimum, as Its gonna be a ball ache of a job. Cheers Joe.

Another Q before I start chaps. @Onoff perhaps as its woodwork. Ok my supplier will take 2 weeks to get the 4 ft gate/ not in stock. But has the posts. So can I crack on is the Q..? Ive watched clips of the basics, & the consensus seems to be drill the hardware onto gates and posts.. before.. setting the posts in. I can see the logic, negating pressure drilling into post once set in. Me, I'll likely need to really lean in as I dont have optimum bits. Another clip showed an school chap hand drilling the holes once post was in, but little pressure pushing in bc of his auger (hand held drill whatever its called). Which I dont have. So is it imperative to have the post drilled before setting in the ground considering I only have a 'leccy hand drill? Thx zh

Great, was hoping you'd say this or so.. panic over. Maybe I can set both post tip tops a few inches lower than usual, equal to each other I assume is 'correct', pinching every inch depth possible as it were. Hi markc, shallow.. well I guess 8" less set into ground than my ok LHS post. Just done a diagram before / above. I hope to fk I dont hit slate!! Ill have to get a pro in to help if so. It is clay tho.. so possibly helps solidity on this post, if not my dreaded dig me 'ole jobs. Thanks chaps, zh

@joe90 or @markc Hi chaps, I wonder if you could voice an opinion. I was just about to fly into town to get my posts, crack on start digging... but this connundrum occured to me, so I'm stuck not knowing how to proceed. IE do I need completely different posts? Or is my RHS one ok set in so 'shallow'? thanks zoot.

Diagram. Its the RHS post looking at it here, I need to start from.. because this gate is the most critical to position right up flat to the perpendicular hedge behind it. Thanks, zh

Chaps if you could help. Im back grappling with the problem, if it is a problem, of the sloped drive. The slope across the gate. On my higher side, the longer 8' gate will hang from the post, so here the post can go into ground the correct depth. I can effectively do this. But I need to start from the other post 1st.. problem arises: So this lower side, with the gap that will have to be below the shorter 4' gate, the post it hangs from of course will have to be (approximately) 8" set higher. Because of the slope, in order to get the gates level. The gap underneath is no concern at this juncture. What is troubling me is therefore, the depth of this post.. bc it'll have to be set into the ground 8" less. Now, I assume if these 6 x6" width shallow- pointy- topped posts, at 7ft long, will need to go into the ground 3ft. So my higher gate post, will therefore be 8" less. From my pov, I can see at least that this higher gate is the smaller one/ less weight upon this post. But even so, will it being set only 2ft 4" into the ground. Does anyone have any idea what Im talking about? Thanks, zh

I think Im gonna go postcrete... dont need any added graft after digging these holes. Is that the sensible idea?

Great.. Thank goodness i dont have to go 8 x8! Ok so will buy my 2 posts tmrw. Progress! Mind you then I got a helluva job hand digging these holes.. likely slate chunks & roots galore. Thx zh

Yup indeed good idea.. I need to crack on, waited ages for quote. If it drains from the btm, & my concrete cill is 65mm (a likely fig looking at www info), then if the frame's W 70mm.. I might just have a few mm's of vent anyway, without butchering it! Good I can order it then. thanks zoot.

@Temp fab help thank you. That all makes sense now: I'll email this diagram & if they concur.. can order at last! Aprreciated, zh

Hi markc. Turns out timber prices are rocketing, ruling out my idea for a posh 8 ft gate now ( 215 vs 110 for std one). Damn. Ok so for a (standard) 5 bar, 8ft softwood gate.. I have 2 post options, 6x6"or 7x7" ( both 7ft long). The nice shallow-pointed topped, square softwood post types. Or theres an 8x8" ( 8 ft) but I presume is overkill. I guess the idea is to have matching size posts, so the Q is whether 6x6 is sufficient to hang an 8ft gate from. And Is the general idea being 7ft long, to sit them in ground 3ft? thx zh

Hi Joe, can I just pick up on what you say here. im a bit confused still about the frame, onto the cill situation. I finally got my window quote today ( £70 seems almost too good to be true, fab). Now just to reitterate I asked for "no stub cill required". i googled stub cill so can get a rough idea of what this section is ( Im going without). So my frame as ordered, is to go onto the old concrete cill, & I factored this into my H dims. I went into place today to nudge them re. my quote, & asked if my " no stub cill" requirement made sense to them, yes he said 'the frame.. holes.. vent.. " some wording along these lines, but couldn't make sense of what he was eluding to. Can you clarify for me? I obviously need to make super-sure, the window without this stub cill, is compatible with where I intend the frame to sit upon. Thx zh

Yes I agree too, a good plan.. so an estate gate on the 8 ft, & standard on the 4 ft then, if I can find a 4 ft to match that is round here. This way I can get my postbox in the spot I'd planned for it too.

Hi Peter. Omg you make it sound so simple! I just know it aint gonna be. But thanks that outline gives me some impetus, I've seen some youtube clips in preparation too.. tho postcrete seems always used. But I got to £save every bean if the gates are gonna be an extra £100 t9 what I thought. Co's are hiking prices with this brexit excuse it see s to me: a sheet of birch ply for my work, was £42 steady for 2 yrs.. just jumped to £86. Really hitting me hard these current prices.

Yup that makes sense markc.. I like the functional look of these. the whole hanging structure especially the bigger 8 ft gates, seems to make sense with the additional bracing. But £180 + vat vs ££130. And I cant get a 4ft normal gate, only 3ft. Limited to 2 places here. Annoying. Gotta trawl www but no way theyd deliver out here, unless at big cost. Damn.. I need to crack on with this job too.

@joe90 Hi Joe, can I ask your opinion (or anyone's).. I rather like the " estate" type 5 bar softwood gates, IE having an extra high bit more timber, on hinge side.. sort of a bit posher to std ones. Ideally a pair (Im now going 4 ft / 8 ft, like a 40/ 60 split or so).. but I need the smaller 4 ft one to be a standard style, without this added timber bit ( bc I wanna put my usa style postbox just beyond this LHS gate, so postie can put post in, without actually coming on my drive up to front door.. bc he's recently been foul to me, yet another nationalist). So if I had this added posh estate added bit.. it prevents him leaning over & popping post in box. Would having the gates slightly different styles.. be weird/ not a good plan do you think? Any idea wft Im talking about? Haha. Thx Zoot

So the window here hasn't been installed correctly then? Anyway its a moot point if Im not going with a cill on my newframe.. but I still cant see in my upvc window above, how any condensation or water could get inside this frame. It looks fine to me.

Hi Joe, from outside the frame's equal/ fine.. so why its set so far into the inside plaster this side in the photo ( above), Ive no idea assuming done afterwards. My other upvc frames in this 80's extention are like this with a stub cill. I cant see how any drainage occurs, I cant see any holes for water to escape; cant quite understand how any water should ever be inside the frame in the 1 st place for a stub cill to let out via holes. Zh

Good thats a plan then& finally can get cracking on this. Lastly, is this any issue here.. the frame being set a full 3/4" into the plater this side ?(better the other side, set in @ 3/8"). Hope you can just see how far in it goes.. thanks zoot

Ok to reitterate; my existing frame (including wood cill) is: H = 47", W = 24- 1/4". So would this be correct to orderfor the new frame.. 1) upvc frame @ H 36- 3/4", W = 23- 3/4". 2) white upvc 28mm DG (clear glass). 3) one continuous pane/ not opening. 4) no cill required. Is that all the info I need to give? Thanks for help chaps, zoot

Ah ok understood, that makes sense to me dpm. Seems to simplify things Id have thought. Might make it a tad cheaper too. I have of course got my dims for the upvc frame wrong, its not bigger but smaller I need! (I'm not sleeping well/ heat etc). Ok so now I know the frame rests on the concrete boot cill, I don't think I need new frame smaller by 1 cm or so here. Maybe just deduct 5 mm from the top? And maybe deduct 5 mm from each L and R side? I must get opinions on this before I order. Would it be fair to assume a single pane, non-opening window (ok for me as I never open this one), would be cheapest option? thx zoot

@dpmiller .. so, what Im trying to say is Id think the shape of the concrete sill, matches this example..... https://www.stonecrete-direct.co.uk/type1-stone-slip-window-sill.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2OmTp9P28QIVXxkGAB2D0gkXEAQYAiABEgKPAfD_BwE

Ah ok. Yes there's a small gap just poke a screwdriver into.. so yes it seems the frame sits up, upon a level ridge, 43mm back from the frame sill edge. Frame sits up maybe 10mm up on this concrete level 'shelf'. Then a Good slope to concrete sill. Thx zh