zoothorn

You'll have to divert via A44 to west wales nr coast.. but coffee machine's already on craig.

@craig Done! Of course as simple as pie once the zoot-muddywater clears! Tad of wd.. & even this loose'ish spanner was ideal. No need undo other bolts, nor wedge door up. Handle closes better now too. The door frame was out, as much as door was. An amateur job originally as I knew you see: you can see where whoever did it ground away a bit of the cill's metal lip, for the door to just pass over by a gnat's hair. Now I've put 3mm clearance at this sticking point. Door still 'looks' a bit out.. but it's the frame. Huge thanks craig. Job done for £5. And thanks to others who offered alternate idea: now I know how to toe & heel one of these should it need it, useful knowledge. Zoot

Ok this chimes with the suggestion in the clip. It's just my eyes were convinced -still are but uncertain- the door was moving R when the red arrow was pointing L (& the spanner moved downwards). And just as convinced vice-versa. So I put a mark on my ipad screen. And couldn't tell one from another!! One would assume, that the arrow is showing the direction the door moves upon adjusting. Of course. Just my eyes say the total opposite!!! Apologies, got my pants a in a pickle. Zh

@ craig bear with me: I've loosened the underneath 5mm allen bolt, & also the 2x tiny 2mm ones in a vertical line. Whether or not this was correct, the centre nut now moves! Good! Relief. Ok but sorry the clip still has me confused despite your reply just now. Ok to close the gap between door & frame, to shift the door inward >> Rightwards.. do I move the spanner in a DOWNWARD direction?

@craig apologies, I have edited my reply just now, to now be correct in bold.

You mean whip off underneath placcy cover, & loosen this bolt? @0.50 in the clip, the arrow is ambiguous (to me): ie does the [[edit: LEFTWARD ]] red arrow mean the door is moving L?? As it looks like the gap is fractionally narrowing.. IE, that the door is moving R.

Hi craig. You replied just as the spanner dropped on my doormat. Thin/ 8mm one end, 9mm t'other. Room to use it ok. I had a quick go I couldn't get the top bolt one moved an iota. Hmm the spanner doesn't seem a good fit tbh. 8mm won't fit, & 9mm is annoyingly loose. I've wd40'd & I think I'll wedge the bottom of the door putting some pressure upwards, then see if I can get any of these 4 bolts to move.

Picking up this thread. PM'd the op for an update on his situation. My knotweed still persisting in my garden, my stream not exactly helping matters. zh

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Aha, the idiot didn't think of releasing the lower one did I! Ok trial & error it is. This door has been like it since 9 years Ive been here, so will be fab to get it done. Terrific thanks.

Hi craig, ok then doing this as suggested earlier in thread, I get 79-1/8" on the door corner to corner. So the solution is thankfully, to tweak the hinges. So I've got spanners bought, as access restricted. Now I have 4 hinges: so how do I go about this pulling the door 'in' at the top-? Is it to loosen off the two middle ones.. & tighten/ pull the door in at the top one/ get the other two back tensioned-up? Maybe wedge door 1st? Thanks, Zoot

Fantastic, thanks so much. Useful to know about the toe & heel process though: I guess it just needs determining, first off, if the door has indeed dropped on the lock side, or is still square: mine -seems- to be still square. Although without a huge builders L shaped set square, must admit I can't be certain. zoot

@craig I don't suppose you'd know what the spanner size tends to be with these? Is that a question too far.. mine I've put a brass measuring caliper thing on, seems to be 9mm but I can't get be 100% certain. This seems a bit of an odd figure, & 9mm isn't in the typical spanner set someone kindly linked to. Thanks, ZH

@craig That's terrific help thanks, so the centre nut thingy -is- the right thing to do, & -can- be adjusted via a small spanner despite the room constraints here. Ok great, will buy one of these. I'd given up hope tbh! Gratefully, Zoot