Iceverge

Ah, that explains it.

That's super toasty but yes you do get used to it. Why was it so hot, i was of the impression you resided somewhere in the far North. Surely evening and night time temps were more tepid than that?

You've lost me.....

Good passive design should be always considered. Houses are woefully under engineered given the masses of human knowledge we have accumulated. Omitting active climate control at either end of the scale however will result in uncomfortable temperatures. Coupled with other heat limiting measures like shading, appropriate glazing, decrement delay, cross ventilation, stack cooling, and insulation I think A/C is still an acceptable compromise in NW European climates.

pun intended? !!!

I think people would be worried about the unfamiliarity of it because we're all somewhat cavemanish when it comes to our houses. Mind you a few weeks of no sleep in 30deg bedrooms in conventionally heated houses this year might broaden people's imaginations.

After feeding the AI a little and trying to decipher the nonsense I've concluded that the risk presented by rain, wind and cold are lightly to be about 6% worse than normal. Something like 1997/98 for where i live. Making long range weather forecasts from climate changes is like predicting the exact path of the ball for 90mins from just studying the team sheets before kickoff. Most lightly a waste of time.

Back to OP's original q. We didn't install any heating but relied on a plug in radiator for a couple of years until the electricity price rocketed, enter stage left the Daikin FTXM25R. A2A is a wondrous thing, cheap to install, cheap to run and simple to use. Heating and cooling and it cannot leak as there's no water. We have one in the downstairs hallway, nothing else, give it long enough to run and it'll keep the house ( passive class) appropriately toasty. (Bathrooms need a small boost with a fan heater for comfort. One worry I'd have is that it wouldn't cool the upstairs as much as cool air tends to sink and warm air rises but I've never had cause to try. Sensibly sized bedroom windows, all rooms with cross ventilation and the south of Ireland doesn't suffer England type nighttime temps. In your situation and wanting to allay fears of future saleability I'd do UFH with cooling throughout as mentioned earlier. If it were me I'd do a 70mm duct and a fused spur in a hallway upstairs and downstairs and move in and install A2A as an when you felt it necessary and spend the saved cash on the fabric of the building.

No, the laptop fan is ten times noisier.

Spending too much of my life in hotels with work I've completely abandoned the USB sockets in the wall in favour of my own charger. They are always very very slow and sometime give up the ghost altogether.

240w, goodness.

Does USB C charge faster than the old ones? I have a multiple outlet charger and maybe its my imagination but I think it does*. *No science applied here,I'm guesstimating.

That lead to yet another amusing and informative visit to urbandictionary.com

That's very tight to get insulation in there but anything would be a great improvement to prevent condensation etc. How many mm do you have to play with, it looks to be only about 15mm? I would get Marmox board and shim it level and screw it to the brick reveal, holding it back 5mm from the window frame. Squirt behind it with FM330 or other low expansion, airtight expanding foam. Then use a white acoustic/airtight sealant to seal the 5mm gap between the marmox and the window frame. The room side of the Marmox can be taped to the PIR. 3MM Gypsum skim over the marmox then. Consider adding some kind of check strap or other stopper to the window sash to stop it hitting the reveal and cracking it afterwards.

Insulation going in there? Looks like an opportunity pour in some EPS beads.