Iceverge

Literally did the exact same today. Antenna is sitting on a mound in the garden as we speak. This turned up today. Pretty happy with the quality. https://www.reichelt.com/ie/en/shop/product/satellite_wall_bracket_wh_60_a_double_pipe_aluminium-332349 I got this to go on top. It's cast aluminum and seems pretty robust too. https://starnetlink.uk/2024/05/17/unlock-ultimate-starlink-performance-discover-the-best-pole-mounting-adaptor-in-the-uk/?amp=1 I was suspicious of any of the Amazon offerings regarding corrosion and sturdiness. Hopefully this will work ok. I don't want it blowing off the roof.

http://tonyshouse.readinguk.org/category/the-build/ @tonyshouse detail and blog. Similar to my windows but put a sheet of OSB behind the plasterboard as my airtight layer and taped this to the windows. I didn't use any cavity closer or PIR board but rather just filled the whole thing with EPS blown beads. Another very good video. They changed the design for the next passivhaus they did. https://www.21degrees.com/guides/golcar-passivhaus:-windows-doors/ The main thing is they pushed the windows towards the outer leaf and primed the plywood boxes.

I couldn't figure out what the vertical DPC does so I cut ours off with a Stanley before the windows went in. 5 years and no issues so far.

A strip of PIR wedged in the cavity or more often now a J bead screwed into the window frame and plaster board slotted in and returned to the inner blockwork. Normally use 2 x seperate concrete lintels for each leaf but it's mostly blockwork near me. For brickwork a seperate steel lintel.

The bigger dimensions buy you some more space alright.

11m*8m externally buys you more options. Our external render sand and cement came to 20mm externally and internally 15mm. 375mm total wall width will be 140mm cavity which I don't think will meet regs. If you discount the external render you could have a 150mm cavity but this will rely on the dearer 032 batts and more expensive blocks to give you a true 0.18W/m²K. 200mm would allow you use 2 x 100mm 036 batts (@ £12/m² + Vat total) which are a cheap as they come and would result on less chance of screwing something up on site too. 200mm is the standard for cavity builds in Ireland with about a decade now. Noone here uses catnic lintels or cavity closers anymore. In terms of payback you're probably right. However in terms of comfort and noise I think 3g are worth it, same argument for MVHR. What external finish will you have?

A shrunken version of when we built. I really really hammered costs as it was our 3rd set of planning and I was trying to save money. 400mm cavity wall for good U values at minimum cost. Some plans have walls 200mm wide total which might bite you when you come to a detailed design. Similarly some of the stairs would be very steep. I would allow a run to rise ratio of at least 10:7. With a 185 rise you'd need a 265 run. and if you have 2650 ceilings you'd need nearly 4m of stairs run. Ours is 191/250 rise to run and it's too steep. I can't make peace with stairs that aren't straight as they waste so much spaces floors. The plumbing is concentrated in one corner. All the waste pipes can run through the stud between the utility and the downstairs WC. The upstairs blockwork matches downstairs. Good for costs and noise. The whole thing can be built with standards timber joists even with MVHR. Just drop the ceiling in the utility for services. A utility cloaks off the front door gets use all the time and a "walk through" design is far far better than one with corners as they always get blocked with crap. Sensible window spans mean you can use all off the shelf concrete lintels. £1000 would do the house. Every bedroom has cross ventilation and windows on two aspects which make them feel bigger than they are although this may not be possible in your situation. With a bit of DIY I would think you'd get the above built for £250k.

Where's North please? Am I correct in assuming this is a complete new build from the ground up or are you reusing foundations? Do you have any neighbors that you will be in danger of overlooking?

Congratulations. I like the forest shower. What is that?

I would do 10mm to every hot tap except the shower and bath. 6l/min is what we get at the kitchen tap and I think it's plenty. If you want 10l/min I just blend in a bit of cold with the tap mixer. It also limits less economical types than yours truly pouring endless quantities of hot water down the drain too if you're feeling a bit scrooge like.

Chemical anchor and threaded rod.

Hopefully prices will drop. I have zero idea how London functions when normal housing is so many multiples of normal income.

Congratulations on moving in. You could borrow a thermal camera and check what the worst offenders are.

https://airtightnesstapes.co.uk/products/3100-black-airtight-tape?variant=48379082309911 This stuff looks identical to the stuff I used but a different brand. It doesn't look fancy but i was very impressed with it in person. Better than the Belgatape and Tyvek tape. I've used it externally on the garage too and it survived the weather for 6 months before I clad it.

Some small lumps of insulation I found around I just tossed them into the sea of blown cellulose in the attic. They sit there little boats, reducing my energy loss by nanoWatts.