atlantication

Fridge isn't going to be consuming 3kW, even the most inefficient fridges will use less than a kW for defrost. It is a bit of a mystery as none of the appliances you brought up really fit the profile of the power being consumed. One thing I was wondering - do you have a PV diverter? If that's somehow malfunctioning that could explain the magnitude of the power draw, at least. Another thing to check would be what happened when the clocks went back? Did the ghost usage stay at the old schedule or update to the new?

Key safes are convenient when you want to _provide access_. Their purpose is obvious and they're intuitive to use for the people you want to let in. But they're also obvious to the people you want to keep out. And they're easy to get into without authorisation - cheap keysafes are all made of cast zinc so they'll come open after a tap with a big hammer. They're also able to be manipulated open easily with the appropriate tools/experience - to note here, I don't believe any of the fancy certifications that manufacturers promote actually test for manipulation resistance, only against brute force attacks. That's probably because the wrong'uns don't manipulate locks open so there's no sense testing for it. A good keysafe such as this (now discontinued) model will be more expensive but made out of steel with a more resistant code mechanism. But if the choice is between hiding the keys under a flowerpot and putting them in a keysafe, even a cheap one will do. At least you can change the code every so often, and it's obvious where the keys are when somebody needs them. In a low-threat environment (behind a gate in a low-risk area), I wouldn't have any problems putting one in for myself, assuming your insurance lets you have one. In fact, I'd worry more about how it looks for the WAF - most are rather ugly IMO. One other note - if your security gate has a code lock on it that looks like this then it's not actually much of a security measure, they can be opened with no tools in about the same time it takes to dial the code normally.

There is an increased chance of condensation in the internal wooden structure with a so-called hybrid roof, as moisture can travel through the mineral wool and the wood is now cold (as it's in the middle of the insulation temperature gradient). This contrasts to a warm roof where the wood is warm so there cannot be condensation, or a cold roof where there the moisture barrier should stop condensation, and it's ventilated. There would be no way for the moisture to escape your roof except the same way it got in - back to the inside in summer when the thermal gradient works the other way around. However, looking at your particular insulation thicknesses, it doesn't look like condensation is actually going to happen - see attached screenshot.