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CAdam

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  1. Is that damp patch the piece on the right lower wall? To me it looks above ground. Rising damp should not penetrate if the is a damp proof course. Either there is none of the leak is above ground. You can replace the stack above ground quite easily using either a soil socket for iron or a rubber sleeve. Depending how sever the damp is, look at either, liquid dpm, tanking and stainblock internally.
  2. Assuming anyone can be that fussy a double value should satisfy any requirement. Being new build there should be a nrv on the meter, a check valve on incoming main and one on the combination valve to unvented cylinder. Again, if anyone cares. Generally speaking, replacement taps are not notifiable. Antibackflow and UK air gaps most satisfy the water company. 👍
  3. I echo markc, all the shower trays I've fitted, the seals underneath, most of time the top part is a bit of foam or plumbers mate, it does nothing. The only exception are former tray wastes, impey, akw etc, that's not this 👍
  4. My bad, it's a concrete floor. 👍
  5. All plastic degrades outside. Off top of my head I think it is, it's polybutylene usually, JG speedfit is said to be uv stable, might depend on brand. Having said that MDPE, mains pipe, polyethylene, the blue stuff, isn't uv stable, but I've been to many farms for years where pipes were surface run for troughs and taps. No issues, not advised though.
  6. Wraps approved fittings are rated to 10 bar, but pressure fluctuates during the day, I did some work, a lot of work down in Worthing a while back. Close to 10 bar thanks to a new pumping station, the pressure was monstrous. Forever replacing valves, taps, toilet innards, many started to have prvs fitted but hated as some made a rattling sound. In short, excess pressure can cause premature wear, especially 1/4 turn ceramic taps.
  7. Depends where you are in the country. Many houses I go to have os taps on a run of copper that cause no issues. My house has a 2 meter run! But on the south coast it barely gets down to freezing now. Always isolate indoors and a double check valve to satisfy water co. Strictly speaking all os pipe should be lagged. Can't speak much for plastic as it's not generally used outdoors on taps on domestic. The through wall backplates are a good shout assuming where you want the tap and a supply are close. Always sleeve pipe through walls too 👍
  8. Thank you both for the input. The acro idea is a good shout. The horizontal joist in the 2nd at both ends is supported. On the left is a wall and the right it's on a heavy duty hanger that's toothed into the party wall. It's just the hung joist front to back that also bear weight adding to it. If there's any doubt I will consult a SE before 👍
  9. Hello, undertaking major refurb work and one of the things I want to do is cut down this ugly newel post. Property is 70's build ex local authority. The rh wall is the party wall and the lh wall is load bearing. Directly above the newel post is a bedroom cupboard built with thermalite blocks and a blockwork banister that will be demolished. Is there any chance this is load bearing or just there for handrail support? It's 4" held in place by a single nail. Many thanks
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