Duncan62

I think this may be my issue, I knew not to offer tighten, so maybe didn't do it enough. I only have normal spanners so don't think I could have overtightened as wasn't forcing anything... I'll open one up and look at the pipe, hopefully it doesn't look like a fat finger on a ring! Been advised to add some paste to the olives before tightening to help with the leaks.

So, filled with water. Lots of leaks.... Which was unexpected. Going round tightening everything again.

I'll check the heat pump thank you. Airless trap because I had already bought it but for airtightness test it's useless for the pressurisation test as it blows straight open, so added a u bend too.

Thank you all, uninsulated until I get it up and running in case of any leaks, but system installed and closed loop. Next challenge is flushing the UFH loops (only 3x100m) and filling the system from the now connected fill hose under the expansion vessel. Also need to add the biocide and anti-corrosion. Wish me luck.

Thank you so much. I've got outdoor lagging and will do as you do!

Thinking about it, should the Freezer valves be sited at the lowest point before the heat pump, or will anywhere outside do it?

Magic thanks.. ordered some freeze valves. Q4: Is it standard practice to put BOTH inhibitors and biocides in the UFH loop?

Do I need one on flow and return? Or just one, before the heat pump outside?

These anti freeze valves seems pricey: https://www.macdonaldplumbingsupplies.com/heat-pumps-accessories-c682/anti-freeze-valves-c685/inta-28mm-anti-freeze-valve-zero28-p16592 Over £100 per...

Oh ok. Where in the loop do I need that, any recommendations for make?

I have the filter on the outflow, an Intaklean unit. Nothing anywhere else.

Q3: How much"flushing" of the system is required? I've put it together and been very careful along the way. Happy to flush, presume that's what the fill flush valve is for, so I can have the dirty water exit before the HP. Just want to know how critical this step is.

Thanks guys. I shall check the manufacturers booklet again. Perhaps the actual flow temp anti freeze valve is best... I certainly don't want to compromise on CoP!

There is just 1 currently, as nick pointed out, on the UFH manifold. The pipes running upstairs are for a FCU and there is no bleed on them. Shall I add one up there?

Hello all, thanks to the fantastic BH I've had a go at my UFH / DHW install. Be nice (please!) but tell me if it's wrong! Q1: how do I go about filling the system? Do I use the full and flush valve, hose pipe? Or pipe in a hep2o from mains? Q2: I have a huge plastic container of glycol for anti freeze. How do I get that in the pipes? How do I get the correct ratio? Observations: DHW Will loop to UVC, but currently loops back to exit so I can get the system running as I need to commission the slab with heat cycle.

I have Norrsken doors and windows too. All I'll say is that they are tremendous at after sales support (in my experience), get in touch with them and I suggest they will fall over themselves to help a polite customer.

That looks lovely. Definitely after a concrete look, preferably without aggregate (cement look?!). Given lack expertise at the pour stage, if we wanted polished concrete, we should have had a different product delivered and laid. I read the fibres can be burnt of when exposed, does this leave residue in your experience? Given all the very good comments here, I think the plan is to grind away enough to level high spots away and maybe 5mm all over, ready for the self levelling compound from Arturo system. This levels the whole area, ready for the epoxy. Grinding is difficult and dirty, the equipment is cheap to hire but the pads are expensive? Any recommendations for pads or does the hire usually come with them?

"After preparation the surface should have a fine-micro textured appearance with the aggregate visible." Is manufacture recommendation before applying resin product.

Yes, due to the fibres in it. Some of the tamping marks are 10mm high. Theses are hard. Other areas of the surface is quite soft and powdery.

Given they put fibres in it when not asked to, I don't think I can grind and polish that. I'd prefer concrete finish but have got over it now.

It's about 18 months now. https://www.heidelbergmaterials.co.uk/en/ready-mixed-concrete/self-compacting-concrete With reinforcement fibres, which I didn't ask for, but got.

We have approx 90sqm so think a stand up version is advisable?

I'm trying to level the substrate flat, to allow the finish epoxy resin to not crack.

Yes it was raining when it was poured so the top got too wet. The self levelling concrete doesn't like that, and as a result it cracked on the surface. The tamping marks are because it started to go off because the crew doing it weren't very good. Looks like I will be hiring a grinder and doing the dirty work. Guess I need this for a week? https://www.hsstoolshop.co.uk/diamond-floor-grinders-for-hire-12022-p.asp

That's a good suggestion, I'd like to bring in a team to do the work, but the cost is prohibitive. Is it crazy to suggest that a self levelling compound, over the whole slab could be a finished floor? Would have to look at the spec of a product to find a minimum viable thickness.