Duncan62

Hello BH, another wacky question for discussion. I would like a Thermal Diverter Valve (TDV) in my setup, to send cold water through the FCU in summer, but hot water to the UFH in winter. I would like this TDV to be self regulating, so that I can set and forget. My thought is to use a Change-over/Diverting valve with a constant temperature Controller. I would use the valve in reverse essentially. If I set the controller to a MAX of 20deg, the hot water for the UFH at more than 20deg will close the HOT outlet of the valve and open the COLD outlet - this is sent to the UFH. If I set the controller to a MIN of 18deg, the cold water for the FCU at less than 18deg will close the COLD outlet of the valve and open the HOT outlet - this is sent to the FCU. Change-over/Diverting valve: https://esbe.eu/group/products/rotary-valves/vrg230 Constant temperature Controller: https://www.esbe.eu/group/products/controllers/cra200 comments?

I would highly recommend doing it yourself if you have the time and inclination. I did all our planning drawings and PHPP. The cost, as said, it time. But compared to the quoted costs, seems like a bargain. Takes a long time to earn £20k after tax too. No one will care about it as much as you. Id say consider Passivhaus certification. As a proportion of total cost it is low, Circa £2.5k AND the initial design reviews will correct any errors and guide you in the right direction.

Yes the control center is inside the pump. Guess I'd need to wire a connection from there to the diverter inside. So no saving on envelope penetrations. It has to be aesthetically appealing. Almost none are.

Great stuff. How is the three port diverter activated? With the non integrated, the control box is inside and a wire goes to the three port diverter to activate it as required.

They are in the physical unit outside. Footprint is slightly larger. But you free up space inside.

Hello Guidance please on should I be getting an Integrated or Non integrated Heat pump? Samsung Gen 7 is my choice, links to each above. Integrated inc: Primary Pump - UPM4K25-75/130 Samsung Flow Sensor Control Centre EHS Wifi Kit Expansion Vessel - 10L, 0.3 MPa working pressure Water pressure sensor Gas seperator air vent Strainer 2.9 bar pressure relief valve Non integrated omits all this. Does the included expansion vessel mean I don't need one inside next to the DHW cylinder? Pros: means it frees up space inside the plant room, no controller and other items. wireless controller (presumably with the temp sensor) can be moved to optimal central hose location no holes through my precious air tightness layer for control cables cons: does the wifi have to be up, always, for it to work? not the end of the world but worth knowing.

Simple is best. Samsung Gen 7 heat pump comes without a circulation pump. Thus 1 pump in plant room. Direct system one zone.

THOUGHT: Can the normal heat pump controller and associated house thermostat be used to call for cooling too? Then it can run the cooling water automatically? Id then simply need to turn on the fan coil fan, which is easy.

Simplest Solution - Spring return 3 Port Diverter. Heating water travels via FCU in 22mm pipe before UFH manifold. Bypass FCU option - Same as above but FCU is bypassed in UFH use

Yes, 5kW heat pump. 22mm make sense if running in series with UFH. Will need insulating. will be quire large to feed through walls.

This is a very good point, I was going to run 15mm to the fan coil, but should probably use 22mm? FCU is large, so will run above due point to avoid issues, should still provide adequate cooling.

1. In this case how do I call for cooling? And what will turn on and modulate the fan coil fans? (I agree if heating either DHW or UFH, this is all sorted in the HP control box an wired controller, its adding cooling and controlling that that is difficult) 2. Excellent, as depicted below (removal of powered valve/switch) 3. Trox PWX 120-2. 5 outlets = 4 bedrooms + living room https://www.troxuk.co.uk/fancoil-units/pwx-ea11f88aee974359

Thank you @JohnMo that is a great insight. I think I'm in over my head a bit with this, but I am doing my best to learn (have been reading here for years now) My reason for adding automation in the mix is because I'm not sure I could get the FCU controller to play with the DHW/UFH controller and HP. Thus I need to call for Heat/Cooling separately, adjust the valve/switch position separately, and run the fan on/off + UFH pump separately. The fan control, UFH pump control and switch control are straight forward. Calling for heating/cooling is what I'm unsure about as the HP manufacturers do not make it easy to see if this can be controlled by something other than their proprietary controllers. Are the 3 port switches spring loaded to return to a default, without power? I'm in first fix now, so I'm trying to finalize what I need, as the electrician is getting a bit prickly. What is the minimum viable solution?

Ok, i'll check with the manufacture. Great news if so - Would eliminate another switch/valve. UPDATE BELOW. Heating: Hot water is sent though FCU in winter, no fan, returns through UFH to do its job heating the slab. Cooling: Cold water is sent though FCU, fan on, and returns through UFH loop to cool the slab too. Therefore: I can interlock 2x 2 port valves so that when one opens the other closes - thus only needing to send out 1 signal to control both. Anyone know how which HeatPumps have a simple contact closure connection for Heat Demand and Heat Satisfied on their internal control boxes - so that I can control that from the automation too?

Thanks so much, Ans 1: I've over complicated it, cleaner is below, with 3 valves, to control direction of water flow for the three scenarios. (DHW, Heat,Cool) Ans 2: can I get away with only having the HeatPump pump for 300m UFH loops? Ans 3: I cant use a 3 port valve as the home automation cant handle that, so would need 2x 2 port to do the same job. Ans 4: Regards fan coil - is it ok to send hot water though it? usually they have separate circuits for hot water (maybe due corrosion?) - so sensible to avoid sending hot water into FCU if not needed? (hence additional valve) Ans 5: The system sketch I have so far is above - UPDATE BELOW - thank you for suggesting some simplification. So I can interlock 2x 2 port valves so that when one opens the other closes - thus only needing to send out 1 signal. 3 valves - 1 open for each type of operation respectively, DHW, Heating, Cooling - Other two respective valves closed.

I'm at the crunch point for getting a Heat pump and associated controller - and am wondering how everyone else has done this? System: DHW = UVC directly fed from Heatpump / Immersion fed from Inverter from PV. UFH = 1 Zone fed from Heatpump with 1 extra UFH pump FanCoil = (cooling only) 1 zone fed from heatpump, flow goes to fancoil first then into UFH and back to Heatpump (to add volume to avoid buffer) 4 x 2 way valves (could simplify by ditching valve3 and associated return) 1 x UFH pump Currently I plan to control the valves and pumps via home automation (velbus in this case) - so the controller does not need to do that. Will I need a heat pump that has a contact closure for Heat Demand or Heat Satisfied (Maybe a second for Cooling Demand / Cooling Satisfied)? The samsumg Gen 7 i'm looking at: It seems the wired controller is what calls for heat from the control box, with no option for an external signal to call for heat? controlkitmim-e03cn.mim-e03eninstallationmanual.pdf

Thank you. There is a spot on the ground level in the boot room, so not a problem. Was just wanting to locate the CU with the solar Inverter and velbus relay box on the first floor. Keep it all together. Common sense would say ground floor, I agree!

Hello, Can a consumer unit be installed on the first floor in a new build? Maybe an easy answer for someone with knowledge? Part M dictates accessibility of the unit i.e. height off the floor, but doesn't actually dictate ground floor? I know a plasterboard tent I used to rent had the CU under the stairs. Technically it was at the correct height - but was basically inaccessible even to me, no chance if you struggled with mobility. Thanks

Occasionally we got a clash of batten/cladding screws. Mostly we angled the cladding screw to get around the batten screw. Occasionally we had to remove the batten screw and move it 20mm one or other way.

Don't recall snapping any. stripped a hex head or two when I wasn't paying attention/pressure on the impact driver. I and another guy installed all of ours, we're the careful types, not the bang it up types.

https://www.tcfixings.co.uk/product/a2-stainless-t25-part-thread-wood-screws-60mm-x-180mm/18642

I went with SS screws for what it's worth. Same layup, 60mm external insulation, 25x50 counter batten. 50x50 batten. Once you start getting custom cut larch, the price must be similar?

https://www.theheatpumpwarehouse.co.uk/shop/heat-pumps/air-source-heat-pumps/samsung-heat-pumps/samsung-ehs-gen-7-r290-heat-pump-5kw/ Will this Samsung Gen7 cool out of the box?

Man that is cheap. Did you use one? Thanks you for the suggestion. Never used Ali. Any idea on pressure loss? Another reason for DIY is because carbon filters for "plant growing" will never be discontinued, how would you get replacement filters in this case? I guess you could buy another whole unit if it is discontinued, bit of a faff tho.