divorcingjack

Just be aware that the slimmer cisterns are more expensive, generally and are not compatible with all the flush plates, so if you're keeping an eye out for a bargain then it narrows your options somewhat. I got good deals on the grohe frames ((duofix), so they are maybe worth a look too - still very solid looking. Some of the air flush plates are £300!! But there are loads on eBay and gumtree, so if you know what range will fit the frame, you can make some savings there.

Hi Simon, TBH that was my other thought, I just didn’t want to be bothered buying yet ANOTHER thing (as I have approximately 11 billion things still to order for the build) if the Kerdi would do the job. Good to know I could make use of it elsewhere too though.

I have, but just not found anything I love as much. It’s a Jura grey limestone with loads of fossils in. Much denser than “regular” limestone so hopefully should be lower maintenance.

Hiya, We're not tanking the walls as the marmox boards themselves are waterproof, it's just the screw holes and joints that need sealing, hopefully! Ditra is going down on the concrete slab, but I'll defo look at ardex. We need a specific adhesive, I think that'll work with limestone, but I'm sure Ardex will make something suitable.

Just had a bit of a puzzling conversation with marmox technical - although not the actual technical guy, he was on his lunch... I was asking what the best thing to do is in order to seal the fixing holes in the marmox boards in the wet shower area. He suggested using cut up squares of the (really quite outrageously expensive) marmox waterproofing tape. There's quite a number of fixing points, this seems a bit mad, and the tape appears to be quite thick. I was patronisingly told "well, if you want it to be waterproof...." Now, I will buy the tape if that's what's required. But - can't I use a waterproof sealant/adhesive type thing? We are fitting ditra matting to the floor and I'll have to buy the kerdi Keba and Kerdi Coll adhesive (https://www.tilefixdirect.com/product/SHKERDI-COL?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxtWFpteB4QIVyRnTCh0zng7VEAAYASAAEgJe1vD_BwE) to join those sheets anyway. Can I use the kerdi coll on the screw holes? CT1? Cheers!

Hi all, So we are at the exciting stage of having to lift all our protective chipboard that covers the powerfloated slab that will be our finished floor. The house is extremely dusty, so it will need a good clean and sealing (I assume?). We have 2 children, so the floor will need to stand up to various food splashes and crayon/felt tip/sudocrem staining. Is there a specific sealer that we should use - it needs to have a totally matt finish, not shiny at all. I have found a Sika one (proseal W) that claims to do everything that is required, but also requires that the surface is sandblasted/acid etched before applying, which somewhat defeats the purpose of power floating it in the first place! BTW, the slab was poured approx 18 months ago so should be well cured by now, I would hope. Any advice appreciated

+1 for DIY kitchens. My joiners started fitting my units last week and are really impressed with the quality. As they were so well priced we could afford to upgrade everything - soft close, custom paint etc. we are also getting our joiner to do custom finishing touches such as end panels, trim etc which should it make it look much more expensive. DIY kitchens sold us some extra paint, custom depth units and have replaced a few slightly scratched doors without a murmur. All in all an excellent experience and we spent just under £7000 including a load of units for built in living room stuff and a big kitchen. Were going back to get some 100mm deep cabinets for the bathrooms and 1m wide multi drawers for the dressing rooms. Also, the fittings box contained a box of yorkshire teabags and a packet of biscuits.

Repair couplings are on order. Gin and cake has been consumed. The door to that room is closed. So, touching the floors went SO well that we now need to cut a slot in the living room floor to fit the final tread of our stairs in. ? Plan is to crank the flow temp up to max, and hire/borrow an IR camera. Is there anything else we can do to prepare? Not cutting the floor is apparently not an option as it will ruin the look of the whole staircase having to do it another way.

Whilst taking some of the slab out for a shower drain. An area where there were absolutely, definitely, for sure, 100%, no UFH pipes. There were. What is is a proportionate reaction here? 1: A large sigh, cake and gin as it it repairable. 2: light swearing ?, vodka and icecream as it is repairable but shouldn’t really be tried. 3: Full Malcolm Tucker-esque swearing, absinthe and charcoal roasting the said workman and the person who laid the pipe in the wrong place for sandwiches. 4: Just sobbing and buying a house already built. 5: Any combination of the above.

We're in St. Andrews, Fife

They have good pics and dimensions on the internorm portal as well. Might be worth some CAD (cardboard assisted design) to mock them up and see the differences in reality.

We're in Scotland, with a cellulose filled MBC frame. You're welcome to come and visit and chat over our experience if you're close? We didn't even get as far as a quote with Scotframe, as I very much did not enjoy the casual misogyny of their patronising salesman.

I'll try and grab some pics when I drop by site this afternoon. I suppose another thing to think of would be if you're planning on having curtains or not, as they would disguise the frames somewhat. I think your concern about it being noticeable from outside is a non-problem, unless you're planning on your guests walking all around the house viewing the window profiles before they come in? If they are consistent at the front, and consistent at the back (albeit different from the front), then it just doesn't seem major to me. However, I am an extremely unobservant person - skills in this arena may vary

Looks like we can have the scaffold down and canopy work complete by the 18th, the roofers are coming on monday, thankfully.

Got a request in with Quoterack now, GIS called me but said they can only provide their renovation cover once the building is signed off, so that's no good to us. They've passed me on to someone else, but they don't sound 100% on what we need. Currently with ProAktive, via Aviva, via broker.

I mixed and matched a few different types including profiles and UPVC/timber/alu, but 90% of mine were 'pre-loved" shall we say, so I was prepared to overlook the small differences for the amount of money we saved. TBH now that they are in, I really don't see them at all. I think as long as they are not madly different you probably won't notice as long as they are not in your immediate sightline or in the same room/wall. I can send some pics of mine if you like! The other thing to think about is considering fitting either a hidden recess on the inside ceiling so you can fit a very slick internal blind or an external one which are much better for reducing solar gain. If you can think about that before construction they can be very neatly done. Also, I've got a few spare internorm windows kicking about the site that we ended up not using... I would FULLY agree with lizzie when it comes to picking your dealership very very very carefully. Wen early came a cropper with a large slider (HS330) and if we hadn't paid on credit card would have lost huge amount of money. If you are towards the top end of the country, be wary, as here be dragons.

Hi all, So our site insurance runs out on the 18 March and the insurers have declined to extend it again. We've had quite a few delays and stuff so we have had to extend a number of times The house is watertight, weathertight, secure although the scaffold is still up. Kitchen fitting this week, painting at the weekend, only major work remaining is bathroom tiling and fitting and a bit of plumbing. What can we do? No chance of getting a completion certificate by the 18th. We could POSSIBLY remove the scaffolding - the roofers need it to do a final trim on an external canopy.

So, an update - we know a very good fabricator who will work for cakes and a reasonable amount of money. The stainless will not be seen in the final finish - only tiles. Although our architect has his exposed and they look great. We’re thinking to line the bottom with mesh to provide a key for tiling adhesive. I have forwarded this thread to husband for him to bask in glory.

So, for our upstairs master bath, I would like a semi-wetroom, i.e. tiled showering area with small glass screen not sealed to the floor. We have an awkwardly sized showering space now due to having to build out the wall to accommodate various gubbins. Large, highflow shower. Not much money left. Linear drain, no diagonal cuts in 600x400 tiles, so the former needs to have 2 falls, not the standard 4. The only option I can find for a former is an impey linear 2, which is £600 just for the tray! Noooooo. So, my husband has come up with this plan. The architect says it's good. The joiner and steel fabricator think he's mad. The plumber is remaining noncommittal. He is 100% convinced that he has created a work of genius. The substrate is posi joists, overboarded with OSB. Was planning on marmox boards for walls (and floor?). Tiles are 15mm jura limestone. Plans below. Judge away!

We're doing similar with 30mm strips of birch ply, full height over our flush door openings. Router out a handhold along one edge of a strip, so no visible handles and roller catches. Hopefully it will look the dogs - took a lot of head scratching between the architect, joiner and ourselves before we worked out the detail.

It’s a fair and sensible point, but moot in the end because it turns out the one for sale is the vinyl version (level dec) not the tileable aquadec. So, I’m now looking for a linear waste former, 1850 x 900, with 2 falls (not 4). Impey make one, but it is £600! Excluding waste and tanking! The marmox one has 4 falls, meaning presumably, that I’d have to cut my tiles diagonally. Nooooooooo. Tiles are 400x600. Buggeration. Fibreglass was suggested, but is apparently a bugger to tile over, so that’s out. I have 50mm depth to play with - we created a well for the shower area when the floor was laid initially.

As its “preloved”, it doesn’t come with anything and I already have the linear waste. I think. It was a long time ago I bought all this stuff.

OR do I in fact, just want to buy this, considering all the rest of the boarding is marmox. https://www.tilefixdirect.com/product/Marmox-Showerlay-360-Linear-Shower-Tray

In my endless quest to save pennies during our build, I have come across an Impey aquadec former for sale that would fit very nicely in our first floor master bathroom. It’s bargainous, but typically, not the absolute exact thing that one would ideally want. So, I dislike mosaic tiles, and Union Jack cuts in larger tiles when used with a former. Downstairs, no problemo as casting our falls in a screed and using a linear drain. Upstairs though... The former for sale has a round hole for a standard waste. I would like a rectangular hole to fit my linear waste. Can I cut it or is that waste-of-time-and-money- madness? The FAQ refers to cutting with a handsaw but I assume that is for cutting length or width, not farting about with the middle. Advice much appreciated dj

Interesting, thank you for the info. I’ve ordered a pair from wunda along with some other bits and pieces I needed anyway. I do wish they’d make it clearer when ordering on the website though.