Roz

The price different isn't actually that huge as there's an offer on on the left hand stuff, but it's not the exact profile I wanted. But would rather it be decent stuff and worth the money!

I don't even know if I want Grade A but the difference between these two samples from different companies seems significant! Larch. The one on the left is so much heavier too. They are both listed as Grade A. The one on the right didn't give me a straight answer when I asked if this was equivalent to Unsorted. I thought the price was too good to be true ?

Hi Simon, The wallplate will get covered up with insulation so no bother on that side. We have used concealed hangers everywhere else but I'm not sure on my ability to get them lined up right with cutting bits out so might need to get someone to do this for me! Do you mean the reason for the oak in general? It was partly a visual thing, trying to inject some character back into this barn which was basically just walls!

We don't have any oak long enough unfortunately, so thought it might be cheaper to use regular timber. Do I just put together two 2 inch thick pieces? I have some hangers leftover from another area ofthe project so perhaps could use them if they don't show up too much. That's a wall plate, but I'm not totally sure what the point of it is as nothing hanging on it except whatever we put in for the stairs. We didn't put the wall plate or oak joists in, a builder did, but he's gone now. He might have done it just to make sure he was getting the wall plate level all the way around.

Hi Rich, thanks - what is a double trimmer?? We've got caberfloor going on top of these joists, and then engineered oak glued ontop of that.. eventually

Our stairs are going to come up and finish somewhere around the red line in this picture. Once I have figured out where exactly they will come up, what do I need to put here to support them and how do I fix it? The oak beams are 150mm x 150mm, but only 50mm will end up showing. So can do a 80-90mm deep softwood here and end up plastering over it, but dont know what to fix it with or how wide it should be. Thanks thanks thanks! p.s sorry if this is the wrong area for this post

the rafters are 120mm (ish, whatever the closest size is to that) at 400centres. BCO requested 50mm Of ventilation space above the insulation

Can some smart person answer this? Plan submitted to building regs for roof make up 60mm celotex ga4060 (lambda 0.022) between rafters plus 72.5mm insulated koolther K18 plasterboard (60mm insulation Lambda 0.018) is it thermally close to 70mm celotex (lambda 0.022) Between rafters plus 72.5mm Celotex insulated plasterboard PL4060 (60mm insulation lambda 0.022) I don’t know if I have done it right but when I work it out I get a difference of 0.07 in the R value... how relevant is that? The celotex insulated plasterboard is a lot cheaper than the kooltherm and yes we have limited head room hence these thickness values, for a barn conversion

Hi hub! It’s been a while. Partly because the site keeps bugging out on my computer so have to use my phone, and partly because things have been slow on site. I think I need to close some of the gazillion tabs I have open! I have a shower screen to install on some 9mm tiles, which are fixed on tanked plasterboard, which is on 50mm batten against SIPs. Do these plugs look good? They seem too big for a 6mm hole and go straight through an 8mm hole, so I should buy a 7mm bit? I wanted to check that, but also check that they are the right plugs for the job. They came with the screen

Hello another plumbing question but I'm getting there! I'm doing the garden studio plumbing in 15mm Hep2o. I need to pick up a few last things so thinking ahead to how to actually connect it to the MDPE pipe that runs under the ground from main house. The MDPE currently pops up outside the back wall, so I was thinking to have it coming through the wall low down, but I don't know which connectors to use. Hep2o don't seem to do many MDPE connectors and I'm not sure when I can use Hep2o with other brands. I'm trying to avoid copper but should I use copper between two different brands maybe... I'm getting confused by all the options Also should a stop cock be outside the wall before the pipe comes through. Should the pipe come through in MDPE or in Hep2O...etc. lastly I ran my pipes about 60cm from the floor because it made sense at the time... does it matter they dont run along the floor? I can change them if I have to

OK great thanks so much. So it's OK for the vent attachment to be 'below' the toilet pipe inlet? I'll do that. No window on that back wall no, so thats fine.

Do stub vents come out the same as normal vents I.e. where on the waste stack does it need to go? There's about 15cm under the floor but can probably scoop a bit of earth back out around the soil pipe?

I just don't understand when I have to ? Hopefully the attached helps - showing the first floor of the house, and the workshop / studio is just one floor.. Was planning to vent the soil pipe at the top of the house but hadnt thought about it for the studio. Drain layout.pdf

Also, can vent pipes have bends, as in, that needed to get out from underneath the floor.

OK I'm getting mighty confused. If I use e.g one of these to connect the toilet to the soil pipe, and the sink waste to the same... And then underneath the floor (floating on jackpads) I connect the shower waste to the soil pipe using one of these... is there a specific distance these have to be away from each other? Should I, instead of using one of the above, cut away some of the soil pipe and replace with one of these so I can then have a vent pipe coming out? But the vent pipe would come out below the toilet pan connection(the pan would connect into the top and the vent to the side..), obviously end above it... but would that be OK? And instead of a full vent pipe could I just use an external air admittance valve instead on the top?

Thanks Peter. Do air admittance valves replace vents? What are your thoughts on whether I should tank the caberdeck before laying the mortar? Thanks

There'll be a vent at the main house, but the two soil pipes don't connect until they basically reach the septic tank?

Hmm but then I can't see how I would get the soil trap in the right position and correct height if I do it before laying the mortar etc as I don't know what height the mortar will end up in order to level? Also do I need a vent pipe for the soil pipe???

Sorry didn't see this, would that be to bring the waste pipe towards where the toilet would be?

Ok noted, but why no flexi if it's just for shower water? So I am pretty sure it's much easier for me to drop straight downwards through the fireboard, so I don't go through any joists. I had thought flexi so I didn't need to worry about the angle so much when dropping the tray onto the mortar bed I have to lay. The waste comes with this attachment (see pic). Do I point that downwards, cut a hole where it points, attach 40mm waste pipe to poke through whilst dropping the tray... then attach elbows on the other side? Feeling confused about how to make it work... ALSO as an aside, I am laying shower tray that needs a mortar bed, onto caberdeck. Should I tank it first? Thanks will save this for later!

Hi Hub! Pics attached. Our SIP studio is obviously made of SIPs but the floor is made of timber cassettes with rockwool insulation in them, caberdeck on top and fireboard on the bottom. The whole thing is sitting on jackpad plinth foundations. Our waste pipes were installed early and there was a bit of guesswork about where the soil pipe would end up. It's currently coming up just to the left of where the toilet will sit. I've just cut a hole for our shower waste and I'm wondering how best to connect the two. I was thinking a flexible connector... down through the fireboard or out through the side joist (double thickness... 4 inches maybe). There's not much access underneath to connect the two but we can scrabble around and maybe shift a bit of earth (but not much) Anyone got any thoughts on how they would do this and what I need?

As an update, I tried boiling water and it didn't work. I also ordered another one as there had since been 2 good reviews for it on amazon so I thought maybe I had a dud. It didnt fit either and wasnt keen to scratch this one! I presume the other reviewers havent tried to fit theirs yet. Better get a more expensive one then... and not be tempted by the cheap ones on ebay... no no no. Why did I go with a black bathroom furniture theme? lol

Seems a bit out of my price range ?

was this about the makita? I thought we had an old makita with battery we could use on the makita collated screwdriver but apparently its gone!

Is there a difference in cordless other than the cord? Eg in power or weight orrrr whatever we have a Makita but have heard the makita version of this might be a bit unreliable