Barnboy

As promised, These are the 2 shelves fitted, along with plastic end brackets.

I managed to getbhold of Schuller who were very helpful, although slow. It turns out that these are spice shelves for above the hob in the extractor cupboard, there are some little plastic ends to fit them into some dowel holes, I'll add a photo for anyone in the future once I've wired the extractor and put the panel back in the cupboard.

I was thinking something to do with the dishwasher but there's nothing in the manual for that either.

Can anyone help identify these pieces for my kitchen please ? The booklet and paperwork that came with it don't seem to show them anywhere and there are not any numbers on them to Google them myself. They are metal pieces and measure 80mm x 560mm without the small tag. They won't fit on any of the draws as they are the same length as the carcases full depth. Anyone recognise them ?

Trusted ct1 it is then. I think that there's a plinth so I'll bond the end support panel with some batten and give a blob to each back foot. Thank you

There's going to be a quartz worktop, so plenty of weight on top, I'm only thinking about the problem as the instructions show to screw down through the feet on the draw units, but I suppose the manufacturers have got to cover themselves incase you put a lightweight worktop on.

I've just laid out our units after having them in storage for nearly 4 yrs and have realised that as part of our breakfast bar / peninsula, which is 2.8mtrs long we have a 1.2mtr set of draws at the end of it which will be filled with crockery. My problem is how's best to secure this from tipping without screwing into the floor which is filled with ufh pipes ? There will be a support panel running across the back of the units and an end panel, I'm also thinking of screwing 2 battens underneath the full run of units to tie them all together securely and some good dollops of ct1 under the feet, what more can I do or will this be enough ?

I was once told to put ufh pipes everywhere to allow for future redesign and then lay off cuts of kingspan under the kitchen units to stop the heat rising up into the cupboards.

I had hardly any dust whilst grinding, the skirt on the machine kept it down, the only time there was dust was when I swept everything up.

https://images.app.goo.gl/uKd67 The one I hired was the same as this link, it had a disc of cutters rather than individual stone like the Husqvarna I've used before which was a handfull and nowhere near as clean finish as this one was.

This is my anhydrite screed after I'd taken a floor grinder to it and started hoovering after 3 rounds of sweeping. If you zoom in on the hoovered patch you can see that the aggregate has become visible and looks more open.

Make sure you seal the joint before painting, the rust is coming from between the 2 pieces of metal so you need to stop moisture getting back in there, otherwise it will happen again.

The rust showing is caused because the 2 metal sections have only been tacked together and then painted, leaving the joint open to ingress and unprotected. You need to clean the area with a wire brush on a grinder and then if it's a structural joint, weld it fully, if not structural, seal the joint with a good quality paintable sealer or automotive seam sealer, before painting.

Our floor tiling had to be pulled up and we're still waiting for it too be re-laid, so the kitchen is still in storage. We decided to not to got down the oak worktop route and are now going to go for quartz. Thanks @olley and @Mike The laser will definitely be out and I'll set a datum from the highest point of the floor and then fix a battern for teh wall units. I've already marked datums for the tilers to work to as their 1st round of tiling had a nice slope across the front of our bifolds where it was obvious to a blind person.

I'd go Marmox, they do various thickness', are waterproof, pretty strong and have a good key for tiling on to.

Thanks all when my tiles arrive I will pass this info on.

Where you tile through an internal doorway how tight do you tile against the door lining ?

@nod Are these the type of rubber door joints?

I'm going to have my ground floor tiled soon and need to let the tilers know what expansion gaps I want then to leave. I've got 65m² over 3 rooms so was going to get then to fit some expansion joint strips in each of the doorways and a 6mm perimeter gap, does this sound correct? They're modular porcelain tiles onto an anhydrite heated screed. What about at my external wooden doors, do you leave the same gap as at the wall junctions and fill with a good bead of silicone?

I understand that the longer you leave it before sanding then the harder it is to sand and the laitance seals the top of the screed and stops it drying. These screeds dry from the top down so they can look dry but still be wet down below. I haven't put any boards down, it's just been left to air, whilst I was plasterboarding I had a stack of boards on bearers laid down, the bottom of the stack was damp and this was a good 2 months after the screed had been poured.

I had an anhydrite screed poured at the start of October. All the info I have found has lead me to give it great care. What I have been told is, after 24hrs start giving it good ventilation, after 7 days give it a sand with a proper floor sander/ grinder to remove the laitance, you'll see it on the surface. I hired a grinder as the floor contractor went over it with a sander but I think he was being chased by Usain Bolt as he hardly touched the surface. You can turn your ufh on after 14 days and use that to help dry it out. I left ours 5 months before turning the heating on and couldn't believe the amount of moisture still coming out of it. I followed the info for tehnal shocking the floor by running my ufh later on, starting at 25⁰c and increasing by 5⁰c per day until at operating temp, keeping it att his temp for 7 days before slowly decreasing it by 5⁰c per day. I've now got a hygrometer box on the floor and am testing the Relative Humidity of the screed, I need to be 75% or lower, I'm at 74% at the moment. If the screed tests ok in a few places then as we're using Mapei adhesive I'll be priming it with their Primer G diluted, once that's absorbed and dry I'll give it another coat of neat Primer G at 90⁰ to the 1st coat before laying the antifracture membrane. I can't get hold of any gypsum based tile adhesive locally, otherwise I'd use that to lay the antifrac membrane leaving the cement based adhesive isolated from the anhydrite by way of the membrane. I'll also be putting in expansion joints at each doorway. 3 days after turning my heating off I noticed 1 crack in the screed, so they do have movement in them.

My water source has a ph 6.53, so I'm a bit worried about putting this straight in being slightly acidic.

I've looked through a couple of different Mitsi and Samsung manuals to try and find water specs but I haven't found anything in any of them yet. Heetgeek say under 1500 microsiemens for conductivity and ph is best at 8.2. I'm waiting on a some ph drops to arrive but I know from an official water test of my supply 2 weeks ago that the ph was down in the High 6's, What's the best way of raising this ? , I've got some salts for swimming pools but do these work long term, or is there something better to use ?

I'll need to find the info for the ashp that I was thinking of using and see what they spec, I also need to test ph etc as I've only had time to do the tdm so far. Maybe I'll try mixing a bit of tap water back in with some of the filtered water and see how it changes the readings.

@JohnMo I filtered my 1st batch of water yesterday, I ended up buying an aquarium filter system as it was a good price and an easy option. It consists of a pump, sediment filter, carbon filtwr, reverse odmosis filter and di unit. It produced 10ltrs of water per hour with a fair amount of waste water, they say 1:4 ratio, I tested the ppm before at 240ppm and after it comes out at a big 0, I had to retest a couple of times to make sureas I didn't believe the tester but it came up with the same result each time. Now I need to build my temporary Willis setup and get a power source to get it running.