Barnboy

I will be priming the underside and non visible edges and oiling/waxing the outward faces. The plasterer has shown me his own house with the same oak and he's done a beautiful job plastering around them. Hopefully he does the same to mine.

I dont know if this should be in here or the plastering topic so sorry if I'm in the wrong group. My plasterer wants my oak window sills fitted before plastering but I'm not sure if where they protrude into the room, as shown in my dodgy photo, (photo is of someone else's house that I took measurments from ) should I butt the ears up to the plasterboard or notch the plasterboard so that the sill board ears slip in the recess made and slide back to the stud work ?

Yes the Marmox is coarser and has a honeycomb surface to it, whereas the Jackoboard is fairly smooth with just a slight ripple where the mesh is below the surface. Now that I've primed them with the Eco Prim they're very gritty, you could now take the skin off of your knuckles on them. Thanks @Russell griffiths

@crispy_wafer those were my thoughts too but thought I'd just check. One thing for you if you've also used Jackoboard, I needed an extra layer of board to pack one wall out and swapped to Marmox as it comes in the thickness that I needed, I found that the difference between the 2 makes of board was really noticeable, Jackoboard is quite smooth and the cement layer breaks up more when cutting with a knife. My tiler has had me prime all of the Jackoboard with Mapei ecogrip primer as he says that he's done some testing with one of the local merchants and once tiled, adhesive and tile could be pulled from Jackoboard whereas pulling the tile frkm the Mamox and others broke the board away with the tile and adhesive. Now that I've down this I would recommend it if you've used Jackonboard and not tiled yet, I'm swapping to Marmox for anything I now have left to do.

I've used the correct Jackoboard bitumen type tape over all of the joints and screws in wet areas, the instructions say to scrim the joints outside of the wet areas, nothing is said about the screws outside of the wet areas but I thought that I'd read or heard of putting scrim tape over those screws too.

It's going to be tiled.

On the installation instructions for various tile backer boards it's says to tape any joints in non wet areas with scrim tape. Should I also put a square of scrim tape over each screw and washer or just leave them bare ?

Thanks @Tosh I'll drop it down to around the 1.5bar mark, I wasn't sure how much the heat of the curing screed would push the pressure up by and wasn't quite expecting as much as yours went up so thank you.

I've had my system sitting at 6 bar for 2 days now, should I leave it at this whilst the liquid screed gets poured, or decrease the pressure a little, and if I do decrease it what pressure do I leave it at ?

Perfect, thank you, I thought that the full pressure of the hose would have overwhelmed the filter.

@JohnMo what sort of pressure / flow were you putting through the ion filter ? I'm looking at filling and pressure testing my system later today and don't know what sort of flow the filter will work at before being overwhelmed. Should I fit it inline from the garden hose, (the hose can produce about 4.5bar when the borehole pump kicks in) or fill the system and then run the manifold pump and divert the flow through the ion filter ?

I'm just about to pressure rest my freshly laid ufh pipe, I've been searching for what pressure to run it at and the go to seems to be about 5/6 bar. I'll be setting the pressure straight through the manifold with a garden hose and a top up of compressed air. There won't be an expansion vessel fitted at this stage so what pressure should I leave the system under whilst the liquid screed is poured ? I dont want to leave it too high and then it rise too high with the heat effect of the concrete curing.

I've just finished laying my ufh heating pipes, I've done the same as mentioned above. I drilled a 25mm hole in the dwarf block beneath my studwork, fed a length of 25mm flexi electrical conduit through and then slid my pipe through. The pipe has metres measure markings on it so I read the length of the feed leg before cutting that length and a tad more extra from the remaining reel once the room had been laid, fed this through the return conduit and to the manifold. I still have 2 loops running through the utility doorway, if I'd have put all my loops through the doorway then they would have all been touching, if they'd have even fitted. I think it all looks neat and tidy and will be hidden in a week anyway once the screed is down.

I had the same thought about my utility room after hearing of a few friends who'd sprung leaks on their water heaters. I've fitted one of these Mcalpine waterless waste in to the floor, I've not tanked the room as it was a bit of a late decision but I figured anything would be better than nothing. You can buy replacement seal units that slot and lock in if there ever was a problem.

I dont know of any others. The problem wasn't them sinking in, it was the actual firing, the plastic doesn't tear like the paper on the nails so you end up with miss fires, jamming and doubles. Unless you're super patient don't bother with them.