Barnboy

I was once told to put ufh pipes everywhere to allow for future redesign and then lay off cuts of kingspan under the kitchen units to stop the heat rising up into the cupboards.

I had hardly any dust whilst grinding, the skirt on the machine kept it down, the only time there was dust was when I swept everything up.

https://images.app.goo.gl/uKd67 The one I hired was the same as this link, it had a disc of cutters rather than individual stone like the Husqvarna I've used before which was a handfull and nowhere near as clean finish as this one was.

This is my anhydrite screed after I'd taken a floor grinder to it and started hoovering after 3 rounds of sweeping. If you zoom in on the hoovered patch you can see that the aggregate has become visible and looks more open.

Make sure you seal the joint before painting, the rust is coming from between the 2 pieces of metal so you need to stop moisture getting back in there, otherwise it will happen again.

The rust showing is caused because the 2 metal sections have only been tacked together and then painted, leaving the joint open to ingress and unprotected. You need to clean the area with a wire brush on a grinder and then if it's a structural joint, weld it fully, if not structural, seal the joint with a good quality paintable sealer or automotive seam sealer, before painting.

Our floor tiling had to be pulled up and we're still waiting for it too be re-laid, so the kitchen is still in storage. We decided to not to got down the oak worktop route and are now going to go for quartz. Thanks @olley and @Mike The laser will definitely be out and I'll set a datum from the highest point of the floor and then fix a battern for teh wall units. I've already marked datums for the tilers to work to as their 1st round of tiling had a nice slope across the front of our bifolds where it was obvious to a blind person.

I'd go Marmox, they do various thickness', are waterproof, pretty strong and have a good key for tiling on to.

Thanks all when my tiles arrive I will pass this info on.

Where you tile through an internal doorway how tight do you tile against the door lining ?

@nod Are these the type of rubber door joints?

I'm going to have my ground floor tiled soon and need to let the tilers know what expansion gaps I want then to leave. I've got 65m² over 3 rooms so was going to get then to fit some expansion joint strips in each of the doorways and a 6mm perimeter gap, does this sound correct? They're modular porcelain tiles onto an anhydrite heated screed. What about at my external wooden doors, do you leave the same gap as at the wall junctions and fill with a good bead of silicone?

I understand that the longer you leave it before sanding then the harder it is to sand and the laitance seals the top of the screed and stops it drying. These screeds dry from the top down so they can look dry but still be wet down below. I haven't put any boards down, it's just been left to air, whilst I was plasterboarding I had a stack of boards on bearers laid down, the bottom of the stack was damp and this was a good 2 months after the screed had been poured.

I had an anhydrite screed poured at the start of October. All the info I have found has lead me to give it great care. What I have been told is, after 24hrs start giving it good ventilation, after 7 days give it a sand with a proper floor sander/ grinder to remove the laitance, you'll see it on the surface. I hired a grinder as the floor contractor went over it with a sander but I think he was being chased by Usain Bolt as he hardly touched the surface. You can turn your ufh on after 14 days and use that to help dry it out. I left ours 5 months before turning the heating on and couldn't believe the amount of moisture still coming out of it. I followed the info for tehnal shocking the floor by running my ufh later on, starting at 25⁰c and increasing by 5⁰c per day until at operating temp, keeping it att his temp for 7 days before slowly decreasing it by 5⁰c per day. I've now got a hygrometer box on the floor and am testing the Relative Humidity of the screed, I need to be 75% or lower, I'm at 74% at the moment. If the screed tests ok in a few places then as we're using Mapei adhesive I'll be priming it with their Primer G diluted, once that's absorbed and dry I'll give it another coat of neat Primer G at 90⁰ to the 1st coat before laying the antifracture membrane. I can't get hold of any gypsum based tile adhesive locally, otherwise I'd use that to lay the antifrac membrane leaving the cement based adhesive isolated from the anhydrite by way of the membrane. I'll also be putting in expansion joints at each doorway. 3 days after turning my heating off I noticed 1 crack in the screed, so they do have movement in them.

My water source has a ph 6.53, so I'm a bit worried about putting this straight in being slightly acidic.