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Thanks @Conor Yes, it's flexi supply pipe. The toilet is not yet fitted to supply so I'll run the herringbone lvt completely under it. Thanks

Thank you @Mr Punter

Hi We are fitting LVT in a new bathroom. Should the LVT (herringbone - click type) be put under or around the toilet and basin pedestal? Both toilet and basin with full pedestal are not yet fitted. Thanks

Apologies for late reply. Thank you for the suggestions. It looks option A it is.

Metal Frame.

Hi We are considering laying herringbone design LVT on first floor of our self build house. What would be the ideal direction of the herringbone in hallway and from hallway into bedrooms? Option A, B, C or D (something different) Thanks

I was considering going for loose-lay LVT, which is about 5mm thick. The glue-down LVT is about 3mm.

Thanks for sharing your experience. Good to know about LVT shiny/matt textured finishes. I can go round and scrape off all the blobs of plaster using a metal scraper and vacuum the floor after. Would it need to be more smoother than that. If so, then the floor would need need lightly sanding?

Thanks I take it you used LVT panels that click together?

We are installing epoxy flooring on the Cemfloor screeded ground floor with wet UFH. However, due to cost we are considering fitting ~200m2 of LVT (loose-lay (preferred) or glue-down) on the first floor, which is also Cemfloor screeded with wet UFH. My understanding is Cemfloor, which is cement based, doesn't need sanding. It just needs a good clean and a primer. Furthermore, it should already be level so it doesn't need a self levelling compound or does it? Thanks

Thank you. I was thinking about a front and rear garden walls as well as retaining wall for a patio. Considering the above comments, I think it's a no go. thanks

Hi Quick Google search states "yes, telegraph poles are considered hazardous waste in the UK and must be disposed of by a licensed waste handler." However, many telegraph poles are scattered around on the public footpaths still in service. There's one pole in the corner of our boundary wall, where the driveway/gate would be. Probably, some government organisation out there think telegraph poles are non-hazardous. I was considering buying reclaimed telegraph poles on Facebook marketplace. There are many sellers on there. My intentions are to use the telegraph poles as garden fence posts. Probably, the hazardous rating drops as they are outside? Are telegraph poles hazardous and can they be used as a garden fence post? Thanks

Thanks ProDave Definitely not going to go with the same joiner. I asked him to put the frames right and since then he has stopped answering my calls. I've given up on him. A different joiner is coming out to take a look.

Apologies for my late reply. I don't recall specifying the door or frame sizes. All I recall was telling him I needed fire-doors FD30 as it stated on the plans. He purchased the frames and fitted them. I started looking at doors online and asked the joiner for the sizes. He said I'll need custom doors as they are not standard sizes: 34x82" (2083x864mm) 33x82" (2057x838mm) When I got a quote for the custom doors, it was way too high, more than double. I contacted XL Joinery about door lipping and they say: Unfortunately both the fire certification and product warranty would be void by doing as you suggest. You'd need to make the opening smaller. Is there a way to make the door frame smaller without removing the existing frame? Thanks

Hi I had 15 FD30 door frames fitted. A couple of months later I've learnt that none of the standard size doors fit the frames. The closest standard size door is a couple of inches off in height and width. Unfortunately, all plastering and decorating has been done so the frames can't be altered for standard size doors due to cost of plastering and decorating. Obviously, the joiner has stopped answering my calls. The cost of bespoke FD30 doors is way too high especially to gain couple of inches. Adding door lipping to the FD30 doors is also expensive considering they would need painting to hide the lipping. Is it permissible to fit the door lipping to timber fire rated doors? Do they still retain their fire rating? What other options do I have? Thanks

Does treating resin floor like wood mean you have to apply some kind of coating to the resin floor every so often?

Thanks IanR I'm not sure. I'm going to see one of their installation and will confirm. He did say they'll be a levelling compound and then they'll be ~3mm finishing layer.

Thanks nod. I didn't think the longevity. There's a big difference. Epoxy floor: 10-20 years Longevity: Porcelain 60+ years

Hi We are thinking of tiling the entire ground floor about 150m2 in our self build house. The ground floor has underfloor heating and is screeded. I have recently come across an epoxy company who claim epoxy floor is has good as floor tiles. Their quote (labour + material) is just above the quote for for fitting floor tiles (labour + material). The epoxy company mainly specialises in commercial epoxy floors but they insist that a lot of people are having epoxy floors installed in houses. They say that they can achieve any marble/tile like design. My thoughts are if it's good for commercial premises surely it's good in a house. Has anyone had any experience of having a epoxy floor on top of screeded underfloor heating? Any advice/suggestions are highly appreciated. Thanks

You're right, the screeded floor is level. I need to work that one out. The tiler said he can get level correct for the water to flow to the drain. I'm meeting him tomorrow so I'll ask him how.

Thank you. I didn't know the vertical trap linear drain was available on the market. Quite dear though.

Hi Our first floor has UFH and is made up of 50mm screed, 25mm insulation, 100mm infill concrete blocks B&B. The entire floor is screeded including where the shower waste will be placed in the wetroom. The wetroom has UFH but not where the shower waste will be fitted. The idea is to cut the screed to fit the shower waste/drain. The waste pipe will run underside of the FF floor (within GF dropdown ceiling to external wall). I was considering the tiled linear wetroom waste like the attached. However, these have horizontal outlet pipes, which has put me in doubt that they may not be the best option. This horizontal outlet pipe doesn't drop down enough to go through about 175mm of concrete floor. Is there an alternative product? What would be the best way to approach this? Some of these linear waste pipes are ridiculously priced £250+ (even so some at around £375) others are around ~£70. Any recommendations? Thanks

Apologies for late reply. I tested stixall extreme power on mf, wood and concrete block. Solid stick. Test 1 - used a piece of mf (had a tiny ~1mm lip on the adhesive side too). Applied stixall and placed it on top of the concrete block a brick on top of the mf to hold it down. Test 2 - used an even smaller and thinner piece of mf (quite flimsy compared to above). Applied stixall on one side and placed it on top of the concrete block. This time I didn't put any weight on top of the mf piece to hold it down. Test 3 - used a piece of wood and concrete brick on top of it to hold it down. Left it to cure overnight. All tests were successful, very solid. Only test 2 had a little play and I was able to see the clear adhesive between the two materials. This was probably because there was no weight to hold down the mf. It was still a strong grip. In all three tests, I could pick up the concrete block from mf/wood. Thank you.

@crispy_wafer yes, UFH pipes. @saveasteading thanks

@nod did use timber or mf? Time to buy stixall extreme power test tube. They claim it sticks metal and concrete.