iMCaan

I don't think anyone intentionally decided to change the specification. Let's say it was my inexperience. I would have stuffed the house with insulation had I known what the SAPs were for. I think we mainly followed the architect drawings instead, which stated the insulation required. I still added more insulation then what was stated on architect's drawings. I remember tradesmen saying why so much insulation. Luckily, adding more insulation as got the house spec. closer to the SAPs spec (I think).

Thanks guys, let's see how heavy the punch would be.

No, there's no mention of the photos in the email or on the form.

For clarity...We have two attic rooms. In the eaves (unusable space), it's 200mm earthwool in joists. The vertical and slopped wall of the attic rooms are 150mm PIR boards. There's some unusable space on top of the attic room ceiling and that has 400mm earthwool. Within all cavity walls, it's EcoTherm 50mm PIR board insulation.

Yeh we used 50mm pir insulation in walls. The cavity walls were 300mm with in total (100mm blocks, 50mm PIR insulation, 50mm cavity and 100mm stone). 100mm PIR insulation on ground floor for UFH. 25mm PIR insulation for first floor UFH. 200mm earthwool between joists. 400mm earthwool above joists. 150mm PIR insulation for slopped roof.

It's just frustration. I asked the questions to hear the truth. Besides solar, how long would you have to fit the solar? Can they enforce adding insulated plasterboard, which would mean a lot of work?

I was hoping you would just say just sign the form without amendments. How would they know what insulation you have used? arggggh I don't have the funds for the solar After 5 years, we just want to move in.

I hope this thread is in the correct section. Hi The company that is doing our house as built SAPs as asked me to sign and return Part L1A 2013 Specification to sign off the dwelling, see attached. My concern is we didn't use as much insulation as stated on the form for walls (stated 100mm but used 50mm PIR) and floor (stated 150mm but used 100mm PIR for UFH). Therefore, the house won't achieve the stated u-values. Any suggestions as to what to do? We are ready to move in. Should I be concerned? Oh boy this feels bad but I must ask, should I sign it as stated should I amended it then sign it? What are the consequences? Thanks

The electrician swapped the two room wiring around at in the wiring centre on top of the manifold. All seems to be working as it should now.

Boiler - Valiant ecotec plus 635 I've found the exact cause of the problem. After weeks of investigation, I found that raising the temperature on the thermostat in Sitting room didn't trigger the Sitting room zone instead it triggered the Lounge zone. However, raising the temperature on the Lounge thermostat didn't trigger the Sitting room zone. Furthermore, I noticed, the Sitting room zone's three auto actuators wouldn't come on now. They came on before. One of the thermostats must had triggered them on/off before so why not now? I started focussing on the Lounge zone. If the Sitting room thermostat is triggering the Lounge zone then Lounge thermostat is the likely one that should trigger the Sitting room zone but why isn't it? So I finally did what every computer user does, at least once in there life time Reboot. I pulled the Lounge thermostat out of it's casing on the wall and then re-seated it. Recycling the power to the Lounge thermostat resolved the issue, well, I mean I found the actual problem. The Lounge thermostat switched on the Sitting room zone and the temperature of sitting room slowly started rising. The problem: The Sitting room thermostat is triggering the Lounge zone and vice versa. So in conclusion, the Sitting and Lounge room zones wiring need swapping. The technician is coming out next week. Thanks to all.

There's no thermostat in the garage. I'm not sure whether the controller has a built-in thermostat.

No, it's in the garage. It's a big house (so he says) so don't want to heat up the entire house/floor. Will test and remove the zones as necessary. I did notice this morning that in the Lounge (L shaped), the dining and kitchen were also warm by couple of degrees. So it's likely, I reduce that one zone instead of three.

A little bit of progress. Could well be a wiring issue. I've found that the affected room (let's call it Sitting room) thermostat triggers Lounge zone. The Lounge room temperature keeps rising even though the temperature is set well below the actual room temperature. The Lounge thermostat only triggers it's own heating zone. There's only 5 zones (including sitting and lounge rooms) on the ground floor. I've tested all 5 zones, one at a time, but none of them have started the Sitting room zone. Also, turned on all the zones on the first floor (each floor is a separate heating zone), radiators in the attic and hot water but not triggered the Sitting room zone. Investigation continues.

Thanks, will read the manual

Yes, I still do. I'm testing to figure out what is triggering the high temperature. Why it went as high as 23 degrees.

Thanks all @JohnMo I have no idea how to setup self learning stopping starting or how to enable it. The thermostat model is SQ610 and the wiring centre is CB500 and auto balancing actuators are THB23031. We've not yet moved in. Since there's no broadband yet, I've not installed the Salus gateway therefore I'm not using the mobile app or have anything programmed. The scheduled timer on the thermostat is not set. I've not played with any other settings on any thermostat. Last night, I did some basic testing. Raised the temperature of every thermostat on the ground floor except for the affected room. All actuators came on except the three actuators for the room affected. The 3 flow pipes for the affected room were colder than the other room pipes to touch. After about an hour later I lowered the temperature on all thermostats to turn off the actuators. This morning, the room affected temperature was 11.5 degrees. I raised the temperature to 13 degrees and the three actuators for the room came on. Will check tonight what the room temperature is. Thanks

It's Salus Quantum 230v Programmable Thermostat and Salus CB500 5 Zone wiring centre. @JohnMo I need to think about this. How it works?

We have water UFH on ground and first floor and both floors are screeded. In one of the ground floor rooms, the temperature rises to as high as 23 degrees with Salus thermostat set at 8 degrees (same as the other rooms) that's a huge 15 degree difference. In the other rooms the temperature is mostly around 10 degrees. I've taken the room temperature manually and it matches the temperature displayed on the Salus thermostat so it doesn't appear that thermostat is not faulty nor is the Salus auto actuator, which comes on and goes off. So what could be the reason? Why would there be such a high difference between the set temperature and the actual room temperature? Thanks

Happy new year. Update. They have swapped the return and flow pipes and now UFH on both floors is heating up as it should. Thanks to all

I turned off the ufh and let the flow and return pipes to cool down. Then I turned the heating on in one of the rooms. The boiler kicked in. The return pipe became hot first. Did this three times and on all three occasions the return pipe became hot before the flow pipe. When I left it on for a while, the return pipe appeared hotter than the flow pipe. The thermal camera was not useful so used tmy hands to feel the heat in the pipes. So it's clear the return and flow need swapping. Will see what the heating company says next week.

Here is the clearer photo of the ground floor manifold

If I turn off the UFH on both floors until the pipes are cool. Then turn the ground floor UFH on. Aim a thermal camera at the flow and return pipes (just has they come out of the concrete floor to the manifold). The pipe that heats up is the flow (hot) pipe. Does this make sense? Will it work?

Have loads of old installation photos but not of the finished installation. Will share the photo later.

Yes. They are coming out to take a look next week. I will ask them to fix it as they laid the flow and return pipe and connected it to the pump. The flow and return should be connected to the correct pump connection, if incorrectly connected. The heating request does work as it starts the boiler. Three companies setup the ufh system, ufh company laid out the plastic pipe and installed the manifold, electrician installed the thermostats and wired it all up to manifold, and the heating company fitted the boiler/cylinder.

It's a new UFH system. I would say it has never worked properly. Nothing has changed since it was commissioned. It has heated the rooms before but we never had it on continuously as we haven't moved in yet. The photo was taken a few months back but nothing has changed in this system.