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Shocking, my prices were taken from Mone Bros website. That's a huge difference. I was hesitant at first to ask about the pricing. Good thing I did. Thanks @Thorfun and Buildhub community.

Thank you all. Robot lawn mover it is (when I get there). Just been looking at the cost of loose topsoil £45 per tonne, over £3k in total for 400m2x100mm=72.00 tonnes. Does this seem correct? Thanks

Thank you all. @Mr Punter I'm not sure. The photo is from the last year and I've had rubbished skipped on a few occassions. I've got a feeling it was off-cuts from the floorboards that we used in the loft. @Thorfun I'm not sure but it's definitely not clay. It's a lot more sandy/gritty. According to AI, it could be sandy loam. Interested you mention manure. I've seen a sign somewhere in the area (have to go for a drive to find it) saying take as much horse manure as you need for free. Could get that and dumped it on my site. Can't wait to move in.

Thanks, It's rubbish from our new self-build. There's no asbestos. There's a quite a lot of cardboard, wood, mdf and laminate and LVT flooring waste.

Thank you. Will check out the videos later tonight. I agree needs to be done properly. Photo from last year. It's well overgrown now. Will be getting a digger to remove the top layer and levelling it before spreading the top soil. I take it there's two ways to spread the top soil, digger and manually using a wheel barrel? What should be the depth of the top soil for seeding, 100mm? I googled lawn seed and realised they come in a few varieties. What type would you recommend? Thanks

Hi. We have hired a digger with a driver to excavate the top layer as it's overgrown and has rubbish. Is it just a matter of levelling the top soil and adding some fertiliser before seeding or turfing? Would it better to seed or turf (expensive) the large 400m2 garden? Is this the September/October right time to seed/turf? Thanks

My joiner used expanding glue (I believe it was D4) and a nail gun.

Hi We have UFH with liquid screed poured on top. I recently had a quote for glue down LVT. I got told that glue down LVT does not stick well enough directly to liquid screed even if the laitance is removed (whether by sanding or grinding). He said it'll start peeling off after a year or so. He insisted that we prime and then pour a couple of mm self levelling compound on top of the existing screed before installing glue down LVT. What do you guys think? Is he correct? Thanks

Thanks @Conor Yes, it's flexi supply pipe. The toilet is not yet fitted to supply so I'll run the herringbone lvt completely under it. Thanks

Thank you @Mr Punter

Hi We are fitting LVT in a new bathroom. Should the LVT (herringbone - click type) be put under or around the toilet and basin pedestal? Both toilet and basin with full pedestal are not yet fitted. Thanks

Apologies for late reply. Thank you for the suggestions. It looks option A it is.

Metal Frame.

Hi We are considering laying herringbone design LVT on first floor of our self build house. What would be the ideal direction of the herringbone in hallway and from hallway into bedrooms? Option A, B, C or D (something different) Thanks

I was considering going for loose-lay LVT, which is about 5mm thick. The glue-down LVT is about 3mm.

Thanks for sharing your experience. Good to know about LVT shiny/matt textured finishes. I can go round and scrape off all the blobs of plaster using a metal scraper and vacuum the floor after. Would it need to be more smoother than that. If so, then the floor would need need lightly sanding?

Thanks I take it you used LVT panels that click together?

We are installing epoxy flooring on the Cemfloor screeded ground floor with wet UFH. However, due to cost we are considering fitting ~200m2 of LVT (loose-lay (preferred) or glue-down) on the first floor, which is also Cemfloor screeded with wet UFH. My understanding is Cemfloor, which is cement based, doesn't need sanding. It just needs a good clean and a primer. Furthermore, it should already be level so it doesn't need a self levelling compound or does it? Thanks

Thank you. I was thinking about a front and rear garden walls as well as retaining wall for a patio. Considering the above comments, I think it's a no go. thanks

Hi Quick Google search states "yes, telegraph poles are considered hazardous waste in the UK and must be disposed of by a licensed waste handler." However, many telegraph poles are scattered around on the public footpaths still in service. There's one pole in the corner of our boundary wall, where the driveway/gate would be. Probably, some government organisation out there think telegraph poles are non-hazardous. I was considering buying reclaimed telegraph poles on Facebook marketplace. There are many sellers on there. My intentions are to use the telegraph poles as garden fence posts. Probably, the hazardous rating drops as they are outside? Are telegraph poles hazardous and can they be used as a garden fence post? Thanks

Thanks ProDave Definitely not going to go with the same joiner. I asked him to put the frames right and since then he has stopped answering my calls. I've given up on him. A different joiner is coming out to take a look.

Apologies for my late reply. I don't recall specifying the door or frame sizes. All I recall was telling him I needed fire-doors FD30 as it stated on the plans. He purchased the frames and fitted them. I started looking at doors online and asked the joiner for the sizes. He said I'll need custom doors as they are not standard sizes: 34x82" (2083x864mm) 33x82" (2057x838mm) When I got a quote for the custom doors, it was way too high, more than double. I contacted XL Joinery about door lipping and they say: Unfortunately both the fire certification and product warranty would be void by doing as you suggest. You'd need to make the opening smaller. Is there a way to make the door frame smaller without removing the existing frame? Thanks

Hi I had 15 FD30 door frames fitted. A couple of months later I've learnt that none of the standard size doors fit the frames. The closest standard size door is a couple of inches off in height and width. Unfortunately, all plastering and decorating has been done so the frames can't be altered for standard size doors due to cost of plastering and decorating. Obviously, the joiner has stopped answering my calls. The cost of bespoke FD30 doors is way too high especially to gain couple of inches. Adding door lipping to the FD30 doors is also expensive considering they would need painting to hide the lipping. Is it permissible to fit the door lipping to timber fire rated doors? Do they still retain their fire rating? What other options do I have? Thanks

Does treating resin floor like wood mean you have to apply some kind of coating to the resin floor every so often?

Thanks IanR I'm not sure. I'm going to see one of their installation and will confirm. He did say they'll be a levelling compound and then they'll be ~3mm finishing layer.