MJNewton

Yeah, I was always concerned about Honeywell's TPI control algorithm which, whilst excellent at minimising (effectively eliminating) overshoot/undershoot does so at the expense of upto 6 demand cycles per hour (actually, writing that down I think it can be lowered to 3). I've been expecting having to deal with the consequences of additional wear this will have on the system for 14 years now but so far, touch wood, no failures to report.

That joint is under pressure from both sides so even if you were to close down either/both radiator valves it'd still be subject to water being pushed up from below. The nut might just need ever so slightly nipping up. And I do mean slight - being overtightened is just as likely to cause a leak as being undertightened (and can be a more difficult situation to reverse back from).

Ooh nice. Will be interesting to see what I've got, and whether a 2kg tub of Fernox DS3 will dissolve it!

I'd like to see that. I am considering descaling ours in the spring/summer and would like to know what I might be up against!

Ours is in a cold loft and we've never had any issues as far as I am aware. The unit is insulated internally and only the control boards sit outside of this and likely warm themselves up enough not to be a problem.

Are you sure that terminal has something in it to prevent backdraft? To me it look like the type fitted to many a log burner, and just serves to let smoke out and prevent rainwater getting in.

We spent ages - months in fact(!) - debating what option to go for for our 600mm larder unit and there was something about the wire frame pullouts that seemed less than ideal. Whether it was the amount of space it took up, having to pull out far more than what you actually need, reaching over things to get stuff out from the back, I don't know. We then stumbled across the much simpler approach of using full-width and fully-opening deep drawers for the section below eye level and open shelves above. There's also a shallow drawer for tins (a lot of tins - must be over 50). We've lived with it for a few years now and wouldn't change a thing about it. The drawers obviously work much better than the shelves, but we just make sure the rarely-needed items are located at the back on the latter. With drawers it doesn't matter as everything is equally accessible. (Forgive the rather messy shelves - I've just taken these photos following a whole bunch of shopping being thrown in today... I'm sure it could be dressed better!)

Hi Karl! There's always potential for ambiguity and different people's interpretations of tolerance, however notwithstanding this in my view if the tolerance is '3mm within 3m' then I'd take that to mean that over any 3m length the difference between the highest and lowest points should be less than 3mm. Thus your units could ripple like a (square) wave but if you were to locate the lowest unit then all the others must be no more than 3mm higher than that and you'd be fine. It might not sound a lot but 3mm is a fair amount for something that is infinitely adjustable. Do you want to elaborate on your situation? Did you cancel the templating or did the surveyor say it was far out? If the latter I'd expect them to be advising what improvements were needed and where etc. Gosh, this thread is a blast from the past. Funny reading back how concerned we were at the time... A few years on and we love the worktops and wouldn't change them for anything else!

Yeah, and of the four air sections I'd expect it to be the only one where water would appear. (Okay, perhaps the occasional stray raindrop might get sucked in through the outside air intake too.) There's still the issue of why this water wasn't draining away though. Or have you solved that?

Are you accusing my doorbell of being racist? 😉

Remember the 'extract from dwelling' air will have some heat extracted from it thus raising its relative humidity which, at the saturation point, will cause condensation to form.

It has night vision too!

I'm not sure I should admit this but that is pretty much what I've got! Specifically, a Reolink Doorbell with AI person detection that triggers a Shelly smart relay to turn the porch light on. It was born out of an overreaction of being annoyed by the PIR sensor triggering in the wind! Overkill, yes, but it works ridiculously well.

Yeah, we've had a couple of Shelly Flood devices and found them really good. Whilst we've never had a real leak/flood to deal with I do periodically test them. Battery life has been great too - predicted to last 12-18mths but I've just replaced one that lasted just over 3 years!

Yeah I thought it was a bit steep, but I was assuming it was just to cut holes in the frames and whack some form of louvres/shutters over the top but it turns out to have been for a separate fabricated section that would be fixed to the top of the frame.