magnethead

Hi, The manufacturer recommends MS polymer for use with the EPS.....I have a triton TT black membrane(goes on blue at first like blowerproof) painted onto the EPS and that Glue I'm using is called X-tack....IT's Tec7(very popular here) high strength adhesive, most brands have a high-tack formula.... Instant stick and super strong, I imagine it work on just about anything.

Thanks @Russell griffiths I was actually making a doppy mistake, I had being using a 6mm bit with the helical ties and they were getting bent to bit and destroying the wall insulation as I was trying to insert.....Once I started using the 6.5mm bit everything was a lot easier ? so just to finish off my input, this is the way I had to go in the end....Metal lad onsite swopped in and saved the day, by taking the lintels off me last minute and wrapping them in zinc. It's a very bad picture below for some reason (camera didn't pick up the shiny silver polished finish on the underside of the lintels.) This picture was taken before I passivated the welds. you can see here how they brought the stone up to the edge of the SIGA tape, and they are not going to point the edges here. you can see at the bottom here, that the zinc is wrapped at the grey edge of the zinc around the dripped edge of the lintel, it's also bends down 90 degrees at the back of the stone by about 10mm. Used a load of X-tack, instant bond adhesive Very very happy with the results, natural stone does it for me !! Feel free to critique any of the details, I was just doing a best effort as I couldn't locate enough details online for this type of thing

Does anyone know of a good tie system? for inserting after the concrete pour? I have some helical ties, but they are a pain to insert and the local mason said he doesn't believe they have the same holding power as the standard triangle heads. These might do the job, but look like they are only available in the states https://www.h-b.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=158

Lads, anyone any Idea for flashing over a Lintel like this? I see some Americans use a piece of aluminum cut into the EPS at an angle, Would you cut a seam and just insert and bond some DPC and drape over the lintel? Type of Lintel to be used very soon

If I had a time machine, I would go back and use this product , Building science says cavity is the best defense against leaks https://www.surecav.co.uk/

Has anyone any Idea or better still, details for Doing the head flashing over a window/door, while trying to maintain that waterproof seal on the ICF face, before the stone goes on?

Just to continue this, This is my plan so far to seal up the windows and doors. Please drop some comments if you see an area to be improved, something I should do differently. I Put some supports under the windows and doors even though I was told it's not necessary and that the foam would carry the load. I love overkill anyway. you can see some backer rod sticking out here on the right side Some close up and the upper window @BotusBuild Any luck with your detailing of the stone face? Do you know which way you are going with it. Even though it says this Feltrim 2 tape can be plastered over with sand/cement, the data sheets says to leave about 15mm of tape on the frame not covered in concrete/plaster. Does anyone know a better tape that can be completely covered? Thanks

just to add my 2 cents, this is how I decided to go. This flashing is coming down at an angle of 15degress. one mistake I made, was not covering the heads of the 150mm concrete screws with CT1/tec7 If water ever got behind the stop bead and travelled down the lead, It could get in behind the head of the screw...damn (I CT1/tec7 the lip on the lead to the foam all the way up)... I then sprayed in some Soundal foam filler to fill the gap (20mm x 20mm) The stop bead was eventually put on, covering the lead by about 20mm

Ah very good, the ICF blocks are grey and have a fire retardant (Neuro-toxin) added into them. 'Thermohouse' is the company. Great answer @nod I'll put that back at him and see what he thinks. for future repairs, maybe having boards would be easier tape and jointing might be a cheaper way to go, but a few people have told me it's hard to pull off correctly.

I was talking to an ICF manufacturer who had issues with 2 clients plastering directly onto EPS walls(shelling occurred). In Europe with the much dryer air, this is apparently no problem. Here with the much higher humidity, he was explaining, that with a steel trowel, the outside layer of plaster Is sealed, and the moisture can not migrate back through the EPS layer , and that trapped layer of moisture makes the plaster much more likely to delaminate. maybe I picked up the theory wrong? anyway, has anyone ever tried successfully to plaster directly onto EPS walls? Thanks

I like threads that show the outcome, so here go's....I actually bought the stainless threaded bar, and then luckily found a supplier who had 400mm concrete insulation anchors or whatever you call them. (Thanks @Nethermoor) Then I put up some Aluminum track (secured with 150mm concrete screws) There are some metal C-sections running through the panels, so I could use 200mm Timco screws to get into them with a washer I put a heap of concrete fixings in around the esges above the next morning and forgot to take a picture. The final job, good enough for the plaster's to take care of I used Tec7/CT1 on the top layer, and then got my hands on some base coat adhesive to stick the final layer on , you can see a bit spilling over the edges. Thanks everyone for your advise

Hiya, It's just WBP ply on the Facia, the box gutter itself is Marine Ply, and that's treated 6x1 on the top edge. The roofer says I should put some "heat tape" , some thermostatically controlled heated line in the gutter. I'm within 200mm of the sea and rarely see much snow, so I'm not going to bother. I don't like the idea of an electric line coming in through the roof.

Hi, I've already gone and done this, not sure if it's the right way to go, so just looking for some more experienced lads review. I had some extra Compact foam left over from a heavy slider Threshold, so i cut up a load of 20mm strips for some hangers I had made up for a Hidden gutter. I bolted them on with 100mm concrete thunder bolts, should I have used washers on the steel face or something? My thinking was this compact foam (Like a wood material, quite solid) would act as a bit of a thermal break for the hangers, I didn't know the proper structural material to stick in there, I know sometimes there is a special hard material, used to thermally isolate two beams from each other. Anyway, let me know if I screwed this up? It felt fairly solid and there is feck all weight in the hidden gutter, so hopefully it will hold, The gutter, is about 7M high, and facing south-west, so it will get a good smack of an updraft, (Probably total overkill, but sure why not). If you've ever stood at a sea wall, during strong wind, you get a sense for how powerful updraft can be.

I think it's a standard enough detail, no need for the fancy ICF block ledge in this picture, just a few breeze blocks built up off your foundation would be fine (That's what I did)

Some Aluminium U channel bolted to the wall to hold the insulation on that side, and then threaded bar coming down from the Concrete to hold the perimeter area, yeah, that might do the trick! Thanks Lads

I'll check out what Fixings I can get, I think they go to 290mm. (It never crossed my mind to sink them into the EPS, thanks for that) , yeah the pattern is from the OSB board the lads frame those ring beams with you had me worried for a second there LOL

Yeah, two 150mm layers would be ideal, I can figure out the first layers and the fixings needed, but I would NOT trust the second layer with just adhesive, and what kinda fixings are going to get through 300mm of insulation and find concrete, and maybe the steel sections in the flooring panels, which are another 40mm in?? I don't understand what you mean about the reinforcement, are you saying you see rebar in that picture above? I better go back and take a closer look if so.

@Russell griffiths thanks, it's just for show, if I didn't make this overhand 300mm lower, the window on the right at the top, would have a skinny looking render area under it that wouldnt be in proportion @jamiehamy thanks very much for your suggestion ? I'll make up a frame like you suggested, I'd nearly prefer a metal frame in case the box ever sprung a leak, also one lad told me to have the same material under the thin coat render, as two different materials could cause cracks, expanding and contracting at different rates, I might try boxing out that frame with insulation.. To have the exterior rendered surface all the same.. Thanks for your suggestion

Hi, I need to extend and box section 300mm downwards from the current overhand that was made, I know most fixings top out at around 300mm. How would you suggest adding this maybe double layer of 150mm insulation slabs to the bottom of this overhang? OR could you suggest a way to properly frame it out? Thanks

I'll come back once I gauge the exact area, I drew the stringline from one side of the gable wall to the other at a height of 8M, so I don't know the vertical component yet. Horizontally at that height, It's about a 5M slow curve, measuring 20mm at the worst point, the Facia above it has to be straight, as it's a metal one. I might need to build the wall out completely with render to match. I'll see what the guys say

Thanks @Vijay so you agree with the tube/sleeve idea ... .. @Russell griffiths You're right, I'll ask the guys doing the job, what's going on here, It doesn't looked lined up with the core all right. It looks to be on the internal 50mm of insulation almost missing the core.... Hold on, I think we might be at fault here, you can see how they use the Drywall screws with the board on the reveal, I think they operate in a reality we can't comprehend ...That's the only thing that makes sense , or maybe the foam is stronger then I think..., I do like their timesaver, plugs they've used on the rest of the board, otherwise it would be machine gunned with screws every 150mm vertically and horizontally. Yeah, another angle on a concrete screws, something going on here all right , they did a great job with the tape too

Hi There, a friend of mine recently built an ICF house from Nudura, the lads building it, kicked out his 1st floor gable wall, by about 15-20mm, meaning the ground floor wall, needed some serious filling in to match...This cost him about 2.5K extra for the render guy. I just threw a stringline on my wall, as the ICF and noticed a good section of it bowing inwards around 20mm, (This is at about 8M in height, I have yet to track down the wall, wish I had learned to use a string line before this) I'll try to work out the area, but is this something you'd hold back money from the builders for? (They're looking to settle up urgently :)) https://youtu.be/96nnzpQ4jG8 Thanks

Hi There, I was just wondering if anyone had any thoughts on fixing into an ICF foam reveal (It's 75mm before hitting the concrete) The builder here were told to remove the foam, bend the window strap in and fix to concrete and then restore the foam. (As you can see they just stuck a concrete screw in it) I might be a bit pedantic, but I was thinking, of inserting some kind of tube to act as a standoff, which would have an endcap which has a hole in it, that the concrete screw can pass through, I just don't like the idea of a long 100mm, concrete screw, sitting open in 75mm of foam, what kinda force would these straps get. Can you think of a better solution please (Below is an example I saw on another house)

Here's how the above finished up, I leave an EPS reveal that needs to be protected, I think this guy is going to use metal sheeting. I'm after the stone facing right up to the window, so I'm going to cut the little nib at the front and move the windows flush with the outside EPS face, (See attachedhow another guy has just run the cement up against the PVC face)

just a couple of posts down in this ICF sub-forum https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/10946-icf-epsxps-external-fixings/