epsilonGreedy

I am about to order some lead flashing and cannot decide on the best code for load soakers to be fitted at a pitched roof abutment. The online guides say soakers can be made from code 3 or 4 but there is no indication of a preference. My roof has a 30 degree pitch with a natural slate covering. Code 3 is 1.32mm thick and Code 4 is 36% thicker at 1.8mm. Some say code 4 might kick the slate up a bit more. My greatest concern is that a code-3 soaker might tear at the upstand bend if the roof structure flexed away from the wall abutment during a storm force gust.

Yes it would be informative to see how he starts off the point where it transitions from flat to wood roll. I note the bottom of the wood roll section is angled back at 45 degrees.

My question relates to lead roll top ridges and hips. Today I discovered that wood roll is available in 2" and 3" cross sections. Would I be correct in thinking that on a normal roof 2" is the right choice with the 3" option being suitable for stately homes? My guess is that in this video 2" wood roll is being used?

Ok I went back to the Restoration Couple lead work video on YouTube and this sort of confirms what you are saying. He creates a rough right angled box section on the ground and then carries this onto the roof and bends in-situ around the mop stick. As you say the wings just flop into plate with a little extra bashing to shape around the tile to wood inside turn. However for the gutter end pieces he does the reverse and shapes a tight fit around a mop stick former on the ground. See second video link. Second link showing gutter end piece former. https://youtu.be/d2mlnGuIWU8?t=22 It is interesting to see him using copper for retaining straps with a lead outer layer for a nice finish. @peterw suggested using stainless steel straps finished in lead and my local guy just uses lead with no second material to eliminate worries about an electrolytic reaction between dissimilar metals.

Hnmm even when painted OSB would look a bit rough. I hope the underside of the eaves will not get wet too often. If done correctly I will have plastic eave trays over the top of the fascia with an angled flap directing run off water direct into the centre of the gutter. There will also be a 5 to 10mm recess along the bottom of the fascia up to the base of the soffit. I am hoping that a thick soffit will allow for fewer screws to keep it tucked up and in place. I really don't want to look up in 5 years time and detect sag between the 600mm centres.

I plan to make a wooden former to shape roll-top lead flashing that will then be fitted along the top of a hip rafter. The idea is to do most of the lead bashing & shaping on the ground before final shaping up on the roof. Given that each section of lead should not be longer than 1.5m, this wooden former will be quite small. Given a 30 degree pitch hipped roof I have calculated that the pitch of each hip rafter is 21 degrees. But what is the angle of the slope either side of the hip that the lead should be shaped to? Thinking extremes for a moment, if the pitch of the hip rafter was 90 degrees, i.e. vertical, then the slope either side would be 45 degrees and if the hip rafter was lowered all the way to the horizontal then the slope either side would be 0 degrees. Between those extremes I would like to know the slope either side of the hip rafter when the hip rafter is lowered to its main pitch of 21 degrees.

I ask because I have a 4x8 sheet left over and it is just enough to run under the wooden boxed eaves of my single storey utility extension. The rafters are on 600mm centres.

Much to recommend this, my mains foul drain was connected under the public road by a small approved contractor based 8 miles down the road, think they only employ a handful of guys and the boss does most of the work. The OP might get better quotes off local outfits. The best policy here might be some temporary sewage storage tank onsite that facilitates occupation of the house and buys time. In a year or two the current commercial madness might have passed or even some new self builder might be looking to share costs.

Most people don't want sewage supplied to their property ? Seriously though given those figures you are in a pickle and I think you need a pro on your side to provide advice. Given the £50k to £150k quotes you are well past the threshold where most self builders will consider a solution that does not require mains foul drainage. The road closure cost is a fraction of the numbers you are being given. A suitable contractor for that scale of job should have their own plant so I do not understand the hire charge, is there anything unusual about the 165m dig route? Why not upload a sketch of your plot and the dig route into this discussion thread and let some of the more experienced forum members produce a cost estimate.

Since we are having a good old ASHP v. Combi mud wresting match I would like to ask what is the medium to long term evidence for relative cost of ownership with respect maintenance? The figures for gas boilers are well known i.e. look at these annual boiler maintenance contracts. My hunch is that ASHPs are going to play up as they are exposed to the weather, however they are not encumberred by the who GasSafe fitter "I won't get out of bed for less than £300" syndrome.

I think what he is saying is that hitting the 60 minute guest mode button will raise the water temperature by 10% or 20% thus expanding the amount of shower temperature water available to the whole household at peak times. Quite a nifty idea and one I will remember as a possible retrofit in case my default setup struggles when we have guests

Little molecules, AH-HA, fair point. I think we will have to adopt hydrogen somewhere because soon there will be ridiculous amounts of surplus wind power overnight and battery technology is not going to give us 1000 GwH of national storage to see us through a winter high pressure. Farming machinery is another niche that could take hydrogen.

Err. You need to allow for the mixed in cold water to bring the temp down by 25% so probably closer to 6lpm of hot tank water. Also unlike a combi that needs to be kept running for the full shower to avoid cycles of scalding and freezing, a mixer shower can be stopped and restarted.

I thought natural gas had an extra scent added?

For many an ASHP will eliminate one utility supplier with associated supply standing charges. Over a 25 year cost projection a gas boiler maintenance contract for say 18 of those years should be factored in as well though I suppose the jury is till out on whether a combi or ASHP wins on repair costs. My suspicion is that running an outdoor reverse fridge that is exposed to weather will prove costly to maintain between say 5 and 20 years.

Using the right terminology helps others help you. I assume you started with an approved full planning application, then got approval for an NMA last October for the front of the property and then got refused on a second NMA for bi-folds? You can put in an assortment of NMA's, I suspect my local planning office views them as a nice little earner. I think the planner who refused your second NMA is saying he does not like the bi-folds and is advising you for your benefit to stop messing around with NMAs of dubious merit and go down the full application route so the planning office can appraise your overall intentions and guide you.

The building trade does not do modern fancy stuff in Lincolnshire.

I suppose another way of looking at the job price is how many linear meters a day can a lead worker shape and fit, divided into the expected daily £ rate. In my case: 2.5m ridge 2.3m hip x 2 Fancy capping piece where the ridge and hips meet. Plus 4m of roof abutment flashing. I am looking at code-5 lead shaped about a standard 50mm mop stick, think that equates to 450mm lead roll. I hope a 30 degree pitch means a simpler working environment. No parapet wall just a simple drop off into a gutter.

Roof weights vary a lot, what type of tiles are you using? How wide is the window aperture? What type of lintel are you using? A two brick high 140 concrete lintel with two steel reinforcement bars running through it should cope.

If the replanting of the dead hedge took place after 2003 then under the new regs no adverse possession can be established until a claim is made. If the OP then disputes a fresh claim notified by the Land Registry then the neighbour will have an uphill struggle to prove his case. If the hedge wandered away from a previous boundary line 12 years prior to 2003 then the neighbour still has an historical right to claim adverse possession under the old rules. I am not clear why the OP feels compelled to instate a new fence.

Indeed, my wormcast is a slim right angled triangle that would fit inside a 3.5m x 1.5m rectangle. What surprises me is how people want to take sides in such a dispute before knowing what is at dispute.

Anything can be turned against you. Within 20 minutes of my elderly neighbour receiving my registered letter I knocked at the door of her younger sister-in-law who lives in the same village and explained the letter, then suggested my elderly neighbour who seems to be loosing her sight might need family assistance to understand the letter. This act of compassion was apparently outrageous, so much so that the elderly neighbour's daughter had to body block her mother from advancing towards me filled with venom while I was standing on the public road.

Yes. The PCSO got flustered when I started taking notes and asked for the name of Sergeant she reported to. After a strongly worded letter was sent to my local police station I received a telephone call from the said Sergeant who complimented me on my writing style and the clarity of my letter. He then said "what can I do to help".

Absolutely, don't go near them or say anything or do any boundary maintenance near the area of dispute. After becoming the victim of assault following a boundary dispute which led to my assailant acquiring a criminal record, I sent a registered letter to the neighbour stating that in future I would only talk to her at a pre arranged meeting with additional witnesses present. Two days later a PCSO knocked at my door wanting to discuss my "threatening behaviour".

Who drew up the site plan for your application? Assuming it was a professional surveyor then I would refer the neighbours planning objection to that pro and ask him to produce a revision to the site plan that includes additional annotated clearance distances. If a commitment to clearance distances is part of your planning application then the planners have the assurance there is an enforceable item and so they can claim to have given consideration to the neighbour's objection.