epsilonGreedy

Ok so the number is out, £693 more per year. For those of us with more functioning neurons than a pidgeon what is the new kWh price cap?

I got a refund from BT when they enabled the wrong line and left my new connection dead..

Same here and telephone.

Two things I have learned from the photos in this thread: No one has used those plastic strips that multiple loops are fixed to. Is it 100% single staples these days? Foil backed PIR with a large printed grid pattern shows through the thin clear plastic sheet and provides a reference to keep pipe laying square.

I found my handheld laser today. My humble static caravan kitchen has 920mm high worktops.

Nothing to do with malice or sheer negligence, thus is just normal practice in housing building. It is routine for minor errors to covered up or bodged before the site foreman or BC notice. I find it very odd that an architect who feels professionally competent to sell an additional 1st and 2nd fix supervision service would not know that a workstop height of 887mm is unusually low particularly for tall users. Why did he specifically instruct the kitchen fitters that 887 was the desired worktop height? I am posing that question to encourage @Adsibobto look more broadly at his kitchen "worktop nightmare". Does the screeded floor have a mound or gradient, is a window cill next to the worktop 3" too low in error. I think the OP will just have to live with the height error but trying to convince the OP there are no grounds for a complaint does not help him reach the best decision.

I was not quoting any statistic. I was illustrating the inherent contradiction in your advice namely that "in the absence of a specified height the OP's counters are ok unless outside reasonable expectation". I little digging on this subject reveals that the normal range is 910 to 930 and this suggests a reasonable bound of 900 to 940. One fitter explained that a sloping floor is a reason for straying outside this range. Which brings me back to my original suspicion that the architect knows damn well the standard height of a counter and he also knows the OP and his wife are 1 to 2" taller than average, therefor the low counter as installed is a consequence of another influencing factor the architect has failed to disclose.

If 90% of new UK kitchens are installed between 900mm and 940mm then there is your definition of reasonable expectation.

The warming of the supply air will reduce the humidity level, some MVHR owners find the resulting lowering of internal humidity to be a problem. While waiting for experts to visit could you acquire the gadgets to accurately measure the current humidity levels in your house?

As explained in the first post the on-site architect instructed the fitters. The architect should know the standard height so instead I would look more broadly at the kitchen design to identify what other error prompted the low height such as a difficult door swing and handle collision or wiring height error.

How tall are the principal users of the kitchen? Do you plan to fit some fancy thick flooring?

An excellent video tour Anna. Is the property a new build or was the MVHR installed in a much older property? Was there an existing damp problem somewhere in the house prior to the installation of the MVHR. Do you have a properly installed & vented tumble dryer in the house or do lots of cloths get dried in radiators? Oh one last thought, is the MVHR machine disconnected in the main fuse box? I ask because I was a bit worried watching you touch the machine with so much water inside.

Is this a warning that those of us planning to install an MVHR in a cold attic need to put more effort into duct insulation? I know that most BuildHubbers are happy with their MVHR installations but warm roofs are also the norm here.

I think they have a similar tank cross section to a full sized 47kg tank and hence the same surface cross section where evaporation can occur. All tanks need to absorb heat to drive the evaporation process so in theory during high demand in very cold weather there could be a problem with a smaller tank that has less metal exposed to soak up heat.

6 months or more would be my guess.

My sister's kitchen has these and it still looked OK 10 years later though that was in black quartz. Does the rental kitchen have a dish washer, if not that will account for the daily infusion of water in the gap.

@WWiltswhere is the eave support tray? Re. Your question, the gutter will overflow before the water level breaches the height of the fascia. Remember you are not building Titanic II, so no need for watertight bulkheads.

Does the upstand conceal the low window cill height? My thinking is that the kitchen sink splash runoff will end up somewhere and without the upstand it will run off the worktop edge and pool somewhere lower.

Ok thanks both, not what I wanted to hear. One bit of good news is that wooden windows only have to meet a U value of 1.6. I suppose I could try to argue that if the glazing has a U value of 1.1 the frame would gave to perform very poorly to drag the overall U up past 1.6 I will contact the importer of these Baltic sash window to see if they can provide a whole frame U score.

This is one example

When specifying new-build windows to meet building standards, do inspectors just focus on the manufacturer's quoted glazing U value or do inspectors want to see a calculation of a combined U value for glazing plus frame? In my case I am talking about wooden sash windows fitted with high spec sealed glazing quoted as: Glazing: D.G.U 24mm (4mm annealed - 16mm gap - 4mm soft coat Low E annealed) ✓ Glaze gap: Argon gas filled: centre pane U value = 1.1W/m2k ✓ Glazing spacer bar: TECHNOFORM "T.G.I" warm edge

Sounds like you have this covered. When you get around to plumbing the manifolds up to the heat source I advise spending some time to fully comprehend posts from @Nickfromwalesabout ensuring the two feeds are hydrodynamically decoupled and the same applies to radiator circuits. I would be very interest to hear what heat loss down through the floor is predicted when you produce a detailed model. There has been some debate here recently about insulation thickness under a heated slab and your 100mm of PIR is a bit on the low side. You might find 15% of total heat loss is via the floor.

Some try to avoid UFH pipe congestion at door thresholds because these are a weak point in the slab.

Plus a chance to redesign the pipe layout to get the loop lengths under 100m.

I can identify with your saga of burning brighter through dealing with the adversities of self building. I am stronger and fitter now than 3 years ago. In the middle of a rising winter storm at 1am in the morning when I was battening down a tarpaulin on a temporary roof while perched on a wooden DIY roof creeper ladder, I remember thinking I have not enjoyed such a physical challenge since I was single handing a yacht across the English Channel at night and the boom tried to break away from the mast. Another day an elderly telehandler driver got the tonges stuck on a scaffolding pole and partially pulled the scaffolding off the wall with me standing on second staging. One of @ProDave's favourite self-build war stories is about crawling around under his static caravan like a potholer during the beast from the east, trying to thaw out frozen pipes. A common theme to these stories is being physically able to respond and resolve such problems. The OP might in similar situation find himself forced to be an observer while trying to fix problems with a wadge of ££ notes. There is a difference between bouncing back from less than optimal health compared to managing the effects of a progressive disease.