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New year update

Crofter

Entry posted by Crofter

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I was about to write 'time flies by with too little progress to show for it' and then realised that was exactly what I said last time! Anyway, since the last update, I have battened out the walls and fitted the first layer of larch cladding on the gables. There was a fair bit of head scratching and working out how the detailing around the windows etc was going to work out before I could get on with the battens. The larch also had to be treated with preservative oil- this will be an ongoing task but it should help keep the wood from looking faded and neglected (even though I gather that look is fashionable for some reason).

Another overly time consuming task has been the detailing around the fascia and soffit boards. These things are very easy to draw up on Sketchup but in real life it is much harder to ensure that things are square and level. What I have ended up doing is making up the four barge boards and fitting these, then running string lines between them. I have no idea if this is normal practice but it at least ensures that these highly visible parts of the roof line are symmetrical and match up with each other.

On the roof, the battens are ready for the arrival of the corrugated steel sheeting- unfortunately I wasted time chasing some tantalising prices from suppliers further south, which fell down due to delivery costs, and when I eventually ordered from my local BM I was into the Christmas shut down period.

 

Inside the house, I am absolutely delighted to be able to say that ALL of the insulation is complete now. I have 150mm rockwool between rafters and studs, and 50mm of Kingspan over the studs, with 100mm over the rafters. Today's job is to take advantage of the howling gale outside to identify any leakage paths and finish the foaming up between the boards. A tedious task but one that should help me achieve a high airtightness level. The vapour barrier will then go on top to provide the final airtight layer.

 

I have also taken delivery of my stove- a Burley Springdale 3kw model. This is the third woodburner that I have bought (I installed one ine ach of my previous two houses) and it is a real step up in terms of design and built quality. The stove is 100% room sealed, with a single intake that draws from an external duct. The firebox is fully lined in vermiculite blocks, even on the top and bottom, to ensure the hottest and therefore most efficient burn possible. Finally, a stainless steel mesh at the top of the stove acts as a soot catcher to burn off any particulates. It's an impressive piece of kit and I can't wait to get it fired up.

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ProDave

That's the same stove I am planning to get. I believe they do a version with a log store space underneath so it won't look quite so tiny.
 

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Crofter

Thanks! The flue components arrived today, a combination of single and twin wall. There is a school of thought it's best to carry the twin wall all the way down to the appliance, but with such a tiny stove that would have looked a bit odd.

As soon as I've got the stove up and running, I'll be able to use the space for band practises :)

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ProDave

What size twin wall did you end up with? and what do the manufacturers say about "distance to a flamable material"


 

I find I have a potentially "tight" situation that where I want to put the twin wall through the roof, I have only just over 400mm between joists.  I have seen twin will with a 150mm flue and overall diameter 200mm so that would do as long as the manufacturer states 100mm or less to flamable material.


 

for some odd reason everywhere I look, everyone advises against 4" (100mm?) twin wall, I would have thought that would have been plenty for this little stove but everyone says not to use it.

 

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Crofter

Twin wall is insulated so depending on the exact brand you can have it within 50-60mm of combustibles. Just check what the manufacturer says. Single wall is a different beast, you need 3x the diameter as clearance. A non combustible material can be only half that distance, provided it has an air gap behind it.

 

My first stove was only 4" flue, and it was rated at 5kw. But then again it was a multifuel and much lower efficiency, so the flue temp would have been higher, which will help the draw. My impression of the Burley is that it is designed by people who know what they are doing, and I wouldn't want to mess with their instructions. The downside of the high efficiency is a colder flue, so that's probably why it needs the extra cross section.

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