scottishjohn Posted March 30, 2019 Share Posted March 30, 2019 Ok guys whats the view on using combination of glue +minimum screws to speed up the job,as they do in other countries not dot+dab on solid wall --but when fixing to stud work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted March 30, 2019 Share Posted March 30, 2019 My house in oz was all glued with only a handful of screws per sheet. 6m long sheets hardly any butt joins. Makes our standard system look we are in the dark ages. I intend to glue all mine mine this time around with very few screws. Haven’t sorted the glue yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted March 30, 2019 Share Posted March 30, 2019 1 hour ago, scottishjohn said: Ok guys whats the view on using combination of glue +minimum screws to speed up the job,as they do in other countries not dot+dab on solid wall --but when fixing to stud work 17 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said: My house in oz was all glued with only a handful of screws per sheet. 6m long sheets hardly any butt joins. Makes our standard system look we are in the dark ages. I intend to glue all mine mine this time around with very few screws. Haven’t sorted the glue yet. I’m not sure why you would need to glue the boards You could fix at 150 instead of 250 Studs dont crack down the centre joints Extra screws or glue won’t make any differen to movement cracks around the edges Dabing the walls before the studs go up Or boarding the externals first Then fixing a three mil skim stop in the internals and corking would be a better course Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottishjohn Posted April 1, 2019 Author Share Posted April 1, 2019 (edited) On 30/03/2019 at 13:42, nod said: I’m not sure why you would need to glue the boards You could fix at 150 instead of 250 Studs dont crack down the centre joints Extra screws or glue won’t make any differen to movement cracks around the edges Dabing the walls before the studs go up Or boarding the externals first Then fixing a three mil skim stop in the internals and corking would be a better course sorry do not understand what you are saying a better description please Edited April 1, 2019 by scottishjohn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted April 1, 2019 Share Posted April 1, 2019 2 hours ago, scottishjohn said: sorry do not understand what you are saying a better description please It’s very unusual for studs to crack where the boards are butted together If they crack its movement where the board butts against a wall or ceiling Glueing them to the studs would be pointless The fixing points are marked on each board at 300 Halfing them would be a better option than glue But unnessary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottishjohn Posted April 1, 2019 Author Share Posted April 1, 2019 (edited) 3 hours ago, nod said: It’s very unusual for studs to crack where the boards are butted together If they crack its movement where the board butts against a wall or ceiling Glueing them to the studs would be pointless The fixing points are marked on each board at 300 Halfing them would be a better option than glue But unnessary so are you saying leave a small gap in corners +ceiling joint and fill with plaster before skim tape Edited April 1, 2019 by scottishjohn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted April 1, 2019 Share Posted April 1, 2019 55 minutes ago, scottishjohn said: so are you saying leave a small gap in corners +ceiling joint and fill with plaster before skim tape We often run a three mil skim stop in the angles In areas that are likely to move Such as party walls Leavin a 3 mill gap Rake it out when skiming This leaves an even gap that is very easy to caulk when the final cote of paint goes on Wet plaster we use a 15 stop in the same way and tile 5 mil short Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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