Shadow gap problem

[Pete]

We would like shadow gaps at the bottom of our walls. We have not decided yet whether to just have a shadow gap directly above the porcelain floor or fit a small square MDF skirting with shadow gap between this and the plasterboard. If we decide to use s/board then this will all sit flush with one another and not the usual way of putting the skirting board on top of the plasterboard (yes I know it is a lot of extra work but we think it will suit our build and just to add we will continue the s/gap around the doors so will not be having architrave either). Problem I am trying to solve is how to go about it as the usual way of doing things is to add skirting to the p/board when it has been skimmed but we cannot do it that way if we want s/gaps. SO one way is to p/board the ceilings and top half of the wall so I can plaster the ceiling and then do the floor tiling so I can then fit the lower p/board and s/gap trim and then plaster the walls. OR do I fit all the plasterboard and shadow gap trims, plaster and then lay floor tiling which will be a lot more intricate and as the tiles are 1200mm x 1200mm I do not want to lifting to get the edges absolutely perfect to the skirting board. My preferred method would be the my first suggestion but if somebody has a better idea please tell me!

I know we have had discussions about skirting board at the bottom of the walls and how it will take knocks better than just having p/board to the floor with a s/gap trim above the tile but there are no little ones at the moment and grandchildren are not yet imminent and by then then I will be a lot more grumpier and will devise some method of preventing damage to our new home (that is if we decide not to have s/board). TIA

[Dudda]

I have just shadow gap trim where the plasterboard meet the floor and these continue up around the doors. Nothing else. Downstairs we laid the polished concrete floor then covered to protect it, fitted the plasterboard and then the shadow gaps everywhere. This was than all plastered. Upstairs where we have laminate timber and tiles we fitted the plasterboard about one inch short to allow build up of the floor finishes. Fitted the shadow gap, then plastered. Then the timber and tiles were fitted.

 

We had a service cavity and the bottom horizontal timber batten was kept an inch short of the timber sub floor upstairs. This allowed the timber laminate and tiles to slide in under the wall and shadow gap. It appears the floor continues under the walls (which it does by 30mm or so) and you don’t need to worry about cutting them neat at the edges or seeing grout as they slide under.  It looks very good and neat (I know it's my own house and I'd say that anyway but it does). What I did was add an extra layer of tape to protect the airtight membrane to stop a tile or laminate timber board getting pushed in to far and puncturing the airtight layer. That was tricky so do it earlier before the timber battens are fitted.

 

If I was having a flush skirting under the shadow gap I’d do exactly the same but fit the skirting once the floor finish is down. This would make it even easier to slide the tile or laminate boards in under the walls.

[Alex C]

Fit all plasterboard and trims, plaster everything. Lay your floor tiles and then fit skirting (this will need scribing as there is no such thing as 100% flat floor or level trim). Getting a good shadow gap to skirting is far harder than you might imagine as it is reliant on all walls, door linings etc being absolutely bang on. Crazy idea to have shadow gap to floor and no skirting as this will get knackered the first time you pull the hoover round the house or mop the floor but each to their own. I have been doing these sort of details for years in high end commercial interiors but the standard of workmanship tends to be higher than your average builder is willing or able to do. You shouldnt really be stopping a single skin of plasterboard short of the floor as it should be a continuous fire barrier. Normal practice is to double skin with the second layer stopping short.

[nod]

I normally fit all the plasterboard edge. beads around the skirts and openings Making surer to set the with a lazer regardless of floor levels Then simply cut a gauge the size of your gap and skirting and use this when you are tiling 

You have to do a bit of self levering prior to tiling