October 25, 20187 yr Another day, another topic....Today we're fixing our timber soleplate to our concrete block wall. We already ascertained last week that the blockwork wall was not level enough at various points. After reading stuff about packing underneath the soleplate regarding potential condensation problems, and difficulty in filling under the packed plate to achieve air tightness, i decided to get the brickie back to bed the soleplate in mortar. It's done and is level enough running around the perimeter, 18 m x 6.5 m. But it's off level running across the 145 mm of soleplate for a length of about 10m running down one long side. I'm a little upset by this, as not only is my internal FFL affected, but we're still looking at having to pack the sole plate !.......any ideas community?
October 25, 20187 yr I am not sure I quite get you but if it is not level you will need to pack it up completely level. If you pack under the DPC you will later be able to gun in some mortar between the packers. Do this from both sides to fill any voids. If it is out of line you will either need to do a redesign on the frame or you may be able to overhang the soleplate by a small amount.
October 25, 20187 yr Author 1 minute ago, Declan52 said: How much out are you talking??? About 10 mm across the 145 mm width of timber, the 10 mm being at the outside edge.
October 25, 20187 yr Author 1 minute ago, Mr Punter said: I am not sure I quite get you but if it is not level you will need to pack it up completely level. If you pack under the DPC you will later be able to gun in some mortar between the packers. Do this from both sides to fill any voids. If it is out of line you will either need to do a redesign on the frame or you may be able to overhang the soleplate by a small amount. Line is good. We drop 10 mm across the 145mm timber, so packing between timber and mortar the likely solution. With plastic packers, then mortar or sealant in the gaps?
October 25, 20187 yr Yes, mortar. They recommend non-shrink but really any will probably be OK. Make it fairly sloppy and gun it in with a pointing gun.
October 25, 20187 yr Author 1 minute ago, Mr Punter said: Yes, mortar. They recommend non-shrink but really any will probably be OK. Make it fairly sloppy and gun it in with a pointing gun. ok ta
October 25, 20187 yr Author Just now, Declan52 said: So has it not been bedded enough and sunk or was the timber slightly twisted. A combination of both i think...4.8 m length of timber with some twist, and mainly, a lack of attention by the brickie, who of course blames the timber!
October 25, 20187 yr Put a block on each end where it's level. Wrap a string line around the block and pull it to the other and wrap it round this. Pull the block to tighten the line and move it in to 10mm from the edge of the timber that is low. Go along and pack the soleplate up till it's level with the line. Then go along and squeeze in your motar.
October 25, 20187 yr Our soleplate was just put on a strip of DPC. I had some material for forming a mortar bed if required but our brickie's attention to detail was great. Edited October 25, 20187 yr by Thedreamer
October 25, 20187 yr Author 21 minutes ago, Declan52 said: Put a block on each end where it's level. Wrap a string line around the block and pull it to the other and wrap it round this. Pull the block to tighten the line and move it in to 10mm from the edge of the timber that is low. Go along and pack the soleplate up till it's level with the line. Then go along and squeeze in your motar. Way to go, thanks
October 25, 20187 yr Author 21 minutes ago, Thedreamer said: Our soleplate was just put on a strip of DPC. I had some material for forming a mortar bed if required but our brickie's attention to detail was great. Mmmm, that was my intention, but......
October 25, 20187 yr If you are putting studs on the soleplate you can route just the pad areas flat. I did that on our garden room in a couple of places where the timber warped. Saved having to deal with the whole length.
October 25, 20187 yr Author 59 minutes ago, MikeSharp01 said: If you are putting studs on the soleplate you can route just the pad areas flat. I did that on our garden room in a couple of places where the timber warped. Saved having to deal with the whole length. On site constructed panels will sit on the sole plate.....been working on levelling it today, and we're getting there.
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