Please Guide my Build!

[Nickfromwales]

Change of £200 sounds good for mixed colour units. 

Check the distance required with your BCO and don't forget the overhang needs to be allowed for gutters / downpipes etc. 

[Declan52]

29 minutes ago, hmpmarketing said:

Ignore by "newbieness" but what if laying the blocks the other way (so thickness is 225mm) with thicker insulation inside only? I guess this would bring dampness issues?

If you build the blocks on their flat it's the same amount of blocks you would use if was a cavity build. If you built it from blocks that where 150*100*215 laid to give you a 150mm wide wall then it won't need any piers for strength.

As for dampness it will be plastered up so shouldn't let any water through. You add waterproofing to the mix. It's cheap and easy to do.

Being realistic are you able to work with timber to either build the frame yourself or erect it yourself. Be honest!!

If not then use your Brickie mate to build the walls. 

 

[hmpmarketing]

7 minutes ago, Declan52 said:

If you build the blocks on their flat it's the same amount of blocks you would use if was a cavity build. If you built it from blocks that where 150*100*215 laid to give you a 150mm wide wall then it won't need any piers for strength.

As for dampness it will be plastered up so shouldn't let any water through. You add waterproofing to the mix. It's cheap and easy to do.

Being realistic are you able to work with timber to either build the frame yourself or erect it yourself. Be honest!!

If not then use your Brickie mate to build the walls. 

 

 

Yea, timber seems more challenging to be honest with so many ways to clad, I would be nuts to accept the challenge... And I am counting on my bickie mate's knowledge (he has over 20 yr experiencing building in Portugal, where most builds are concrete (even roofs!). Carrying blocks and working with the concrete mixer should be doable tasks for myself and brother in law  

 

So on a cavity build, no need to piers or columns on that long 8m wall? I still have to get  S.E to do calcs for B.C....

 

 

Edited August 14, 2018 by hmpmarketing

[PeterW]

SE calcs for what ......???

 

 

[Nickfromwales]

Founds?

[hmpmarketing]

10 minutes ago, PeterW said:

SE calcs for what ......???

 

 

If I go with cavity 100mm + 100mm fibre for insulation, wouldnt B.C require calcs for the foundations? 

 

what If I use Thermlite 150mm X 440mm X 215mm aircrete blocks, single skin fine? Would need to take into account what type of insulation to go here

4 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Founds?

 

☝️

 

Edited August 14, 2018 by hmpmarketing

[hmpmarketing]

Also @PeterW where do  you get off the shelf JJI-Joists to cover that 6m span + overhangs?

 

I was quoted £1,539 (ex vat) from FForest TImber (21 joists ) and Minera quoted me £1,421 (ex vat)  (15 joists) but these are either in-built or need hangers, dont take into account the overhangs required

 

Edited August 14, 2018 by hmpmarketing

[PeterW]

Garrards hold them but they may be a bit far for you.

 

You could go with a standard joist but would need a steel across the middle to split it to two 4m spans - 8x6m is a big problem with standard timber !

[hmpmarketing]

Just now, PeterW said:

Garrards hold them but they may be a bit far for you.

 

You could go with a standard joist but would need a steel across the middle to split it to two 4m spans - 8x6m is a big problem with standard timber !

 

I see, well, delivery charges down to chichester would not be that much?

 

standard timber to cover the 6m length would be too heavy as well!

 

[Nickfromwales]

I was just going to say steel spine and normal joists but @PeterW beat me to it. 

Steel will be better and quicker IMO with no need for extra detailing with the pozi joists required. Just drop them in as your building the walls up. Cheap enough and logistically simpler. 

[Nickfromwales]

I'd go for the deeper thermalite and 75mm insulated stud work with 30mm insulated plasterboard over the studs. 

Warm as toast.  

[hmpmarketing]

Like this @PeterW @Nickfromwales ?

 

Steel spline sitting or inbuilt into blockwork?

Long timber joist or 2x shorter ones?

(need overhangs of 150mm sides and rear, 500mm front)

 

 

Edited August 14, 2018 by hmpmarketing

[hmpmarketing]

47 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

I'd go for the deeper thermalite and 75mm insulated stud work with 30mm insulated plasterboard over the studs. 

Warm as toast.  

 These thermalite blocks?

 

https://www.mkmbs.co.uk/prodb016226-440mm-x-215mm-x-215mm-toplite-aircrete-block/

[Declan52]

4 hours ago, PeterW said:

SE calcs for what ......???

 

 

In another post his building control guy is looking the foundations 1m deep so to hopefully prove it doesn't need to go this deep he could get the SE to put on paper that 400mm/500mm should be enough so save a few quid.

[hmpmarketing]

3 minutes ago, Declan52 said:

In another post his building control guy is looking the foundations 1m deep so to hopefully prove it doesn't need to go this deep he could get the SE to put on paper that 400mm/500mm should be enough so save a few quid.

 

Yes, exactly....I think 1m deep is an incredible exaggeration from them!

[Declan52]

Anything over a 150mm wall won't need any piers so that's your starting point. Price up standard 150mm block and 75mm insulation between the stud and 50mm over the studwork. Then price up the thermalites with 75mm and 25/30mm and see what suits the wallet best. 

How are you finishing the outside. Sand cement and painted white or something like krend to give the white look.

[hmpmarketing]

30 minutes ago, Declan52 said:

Anything over a 150mm wall won't need any piers so that's your starting point. Price up standard 150mm block and 75mm insulation between the stud and 50mm over the studwork. Then price up the thermalites with 75mm and 25/30mm and see what suits the wallet best. 

How are you finishing the outside. Sand cement and painted white or something like krend to give the white look.

 

Thanks for the tips, will work on numbers and post here.

 

Plan is sand cement render (my brickie mate did it last year for the entrance walls and they look fabulous) painted in white

[hmpmarketing]

@Declan52 and everyone, quick price up (with VAT) from Builder Depot (perhaps I can find some other BM that is cheaper?) Assuming total wall area of 75m2 (28m perimeter @ 2.7m high)

 

 

Have not included sundries (joint, adhesive, etc)

 

Feedback on the choices are welcome  

 

 

Edited August 14, 2018 by hmpmarketing

[Declan52]

On the bottom price why have you Rockwool type insulation going over the stud work. In between is fine but you will need the 50mm type pir that you have on the top price.

[PeterW]

Pointless using aircrete really - just use normal mid or heavy blocks as they are cheap. 

[Nickfromwales]

6 hours ago, hmpmarketing said:

 These thermalite blocks?

 

https://www.mkmbs.co.uk/prodb016226-440mm-x-215mm-x-215mm-toplite-aircrete-block/

Just trying to work out how to kill off the cold bridge where the steel meets both ends of the building. 

For the front, drop back to regular thickness blocks to get a 100mm deep pad stone, prob 600mm wide sat on the under-laying full depth blocks and then the outer edge will be the thinner course of thermalite ( eg so the steel stops 100mm into the 215mm deep wall ). 

 

[hmpmarketing]

1 hour ago, Declan52 said:

On the bottom price why have you Rockwool type insulation going over the stud work. In between is fine but you will need the 50mm type pir that you have on the top price.

 

Oops, I got the wrong one I guess....will correct

 

58 minutes ago, PeterW said:

Pointless using aircrete really - just use normal mid or heavy blocks as they are cheap. 

 

Okie..I thought there were thermal advantages to it, so just snake oil?

 

58 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Just trying to work out how to kill off the cold bridge where the steel meets both ends of the building. 

For the front, drop back to regular thickness blocks to get a 100mm deep pad stone, prob 600mm wide sat on the under-laying full depth blocks and then the outer edge will be the thinner course of thermalite ( eg so the steel stops 100mm into the 215mm deep wall ). 

 

 

confused heheheheh

[PeterW]

15 minutes ago, hmpmarketing said:

Okie..I thought there were thermal advantages to it, so just snake oil?

 

 

there is but it’s negligible and those blocks are double the price of ordinary ones so you would need to spend a lot on heating to make that difference up ..!! You may also find 140mm cheaper and again they don’t need a pillar

[hmpmarketing]

5 minutes ago, PeterW said:

 

there is but it’s negligible and those blocks are double the price of ordinary ones so you would need to spend a lot on heating to make that difference up ..!! You may also find 140mm cheaper and again they don’t need a pillar

 

Note taken ✏️

 

By the way, the steel beam, would it be something off-the-shelf or need calcs for this if I would be using standard timber joists?

[Nickfromwales]

13 minutes ago, PeterW said:

 

there is but it’s negligible and those blocks are double the price of ordinary ones so you would need to spend a lot on heating to make that difference up ..!! You may also find 140mm cheaper and again they don’t need a pillar

What will support the steel and stop the cold bridge with that being end-exposed? Plate it and 'gallows bracket' it? Will need to be an UC then and not an UB?