Bringing a derelict UFH system into service.

[PeterW]

Sink In a 500mm is fine. 

 

Is the manifold fitted as you’re talking a 4 port manifold not 8, as they count as pairs. A manifold is probably 300mm wide, pump will add another 150-180mm so will be very tight in a 500mm cupboard.  

 

 

[Nickfromwales]

Nothing stopping you mounting the manifold at the bottom of the cupboard, and then splitting the pump and blending set and mounting that above to make it a double-decker narrow arrangement. Just fit some 1" x 22mm copper to iron adaptors into each of the two ( then separate ) bits of kit, and simply join them back together with 22mm copper pipe.

Simples! 

[daiking]

18 hours ago, PeterW said:

Sink In a 500mm is fine. 

 

Is the manifold fitted as you’re talking a 4 port manifold not 8, as they count as pairs. A manifold is probably 300mm wide, pump will add another 150-180mm so will be very tight in a 500mm cupboard.  

 

 

The room is wider than the plan so a 600 will fit ?

9 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

Nothing stopping you mounting the manifold at the bottom of the cupboard, and then splitting the pump and blending set and mounting that above to make it a double-decker narrow arrangement. Just fit some 1" x 22mm copper to iron adaptors into each of the two ( then separate ) bits of kit, and simply join them back together with 22mm copper pipe.

Simples! 

 

But I’m not fitting it. ?

 

I’ll draw a box on the wall and tell them to make it fit in that.

 

I think I’m going to have the UFH on it’s own controller so that it can run independently of the radiators. 

[Nickfromwales]

11 hours ago, daiking said:

The room is wider than the plan so a 600 will fit ?

 

But I’m not fitting it. ?

 

I’ll draw a box on the wall and tell them to make it fit in that.

 

I think I’m going to have the UFH on it’s own controller so that it can run independently of the radiators. 

The boiler will short cycle, but life will go on. Do you want any more ideas on how to best mitigate, or are you at the "ignorance is bliss" stage yet?

[daiking]

1 hour ago, Nickfromwales said:

The boiler will short cycle, but life will go on. Do you want ani more ideas on how to best mitigate, or are you at the "ignorance is bliss" stage yet?

 

Of course I don’t care any more but I also never miss an opportunity for self-flagellation.

 

So please tell me what won’t be done but should be done.

[Nickfromwales]

4 hours ago, daiking said:

 

Of course I don’t care any more but I also never miss an opportunity for self-flagellation.

 

So please tell me what won’t be done but should be done.

Good lad.

If it were me, and I was were I was, eg were you are.......

i) accept a bit of short cycling of the boiler when running the UFH only, but do the following to reduce it;

ii) take 22mm boiler flow and return to the UFH manifold ( or 15mm if that's what your plumber ( on his mother's side ) left you with ) and tee off both pipes immediately after they arrive at the UFH TMV,

iii) fit a 22mm 2-port zone valve between flow and return ( 15mm reducing sets will fit into the nuts instead of olives link )

iv) set the motorised valve to open when the UFH ONLY is on to give a super-duper bypass, and for it to close when the other heating is on so as to not give problematic bypass.

Winner winner, chicken dinner.

 

Don't forget to not do that ok.

[daiking]

13 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

Good lad.

If it were me, and I was were I was, eg were you are.......

i) accept a bit of short cycling of the boiler when running the UFH only, but do the following to reduce it;

ii) take 22mm boiler flow and return to the UFH manifold ( or 15mm if that's what your plumber ( on his mother's side ) left you with ) and tee off both pipes immediately after they arrive at the UFH TMV,

iii) fit a 22mm 2-port zone valve between flow and return ( 15mm reducing sets will fit into the nuts instead of olives link )

iv) set the motorised valve to open when the UFH ONLY is on to give a super-duper bypass, and for it to close when the other heating is on so as to not give problematic bypass.

Winner winner, chicken dinner.

 

Don't forget to not do that ok.

 

That should be easy not to do as you've definitely lost me.

[Nickfromwales]

?

[daiking]

On 28/06/2019 at 22:22, Nickfromwales said:

?

 

Booked for 11th July ?

 

beforehand I suppose I should checkout the kit I have and...

 

Is there any easy way I can drain and flush the loops of stagnant water myself?

[PeterW]

1 minute ago, daiking said:

Is there any easy way I can drain and flush the loops of stagnant water myself?

 

Hosepipe. Buy a couple of these off eBay (assuming it’s 16/2 pipe) and then gently clamp onto the pipe and put a stub of 15mm copper on each one. Hose should stretch over the top and a jubilee will hold it in place. One hose to the tap, another to a drain. 

 

Doesn’t need a lot of pressure, just run for 3 or 4 mins per loop to flush any crud out. 

[daiking]

19 minutes ago, PeterW said:

 

Hosepipe. Buy a couple of these off eBay (assuming it’s 16/2 pipe) and then gently clamp onto the pipe and put a stub of 15mm copper on each one. Hose should stretch over the top and a jubilee will hold it in place. One hose to the tap, another to a drain. 

 

Doesn’t need a lot of pressure, just run for 3 or 4 mins per loop to flush any crud out. 

 

its 16mm pert al pert and the connectors are already in place and I've got the parts with the manifold to connect to a hose and fill/flush. Its how I filled 'em.

[daiking]

?

[daiking]

I was surprised to find the water looked clean, I was expecting it to be black and green and gunky after 4 years in the pipes. I had covered the ends but I was sure of the integrity of the covering after all this time. I flushed 2 loops and thought what if all the water had leaked out and I was just flushing through new, clean water? So I set up the vax to suck the water out of the 3rd loop and must have got about 7-8 litres of clean looking water.  When flushing through, I was surprised by the low flow out of the end of the hose. Big head loss through 70 ish metres of UFH pipe and then 20 ish metres of hose pipe.

 

I pressurised Loop 1 overnight and the pressure dropped form 3.5bar to 3.2 bar - Not ideal but far better than my attempts 4 years ago. I think loop 1 is the one I mangled when installing.

 

I'll do loop 2 tonight.

[PeterW]

3.5 to 3.2 could be temperature related drop. Don’t forget you only run at 1-1.5 bar max in UFH. 

[daiking]

On ‎08‎/‎07‎/‎2019 at 12:13, PeterW said:

3.5 to 3.2 could be temperature related drop. Don’t forget you only run at 1-1.5 bar max in UFH. 

 

Actually kept over 3 bar for 2 days. Loops 2 & 3 pressurised last night and kept over 3 bar overnight so looking good.

 

Loop 4 was never filled, is not in the slab anyway and not that important (small loop in a section of suspended floor.

[scottishjohn]

On 08/07/2019 at 12:08, daiking said:

I was surprised to find the water looked clean, I was expecting it to be black and green and gunky after 4 years in the pipes. I had covered the ends but I was sure of the integrity of the covering after all this time. I flushed 2 loops and thought what if all the water had leaked out and I was just flushing through new, clean water? So I set up the vax to suck the water out of the 3rd loop and must have got about 7-8 litres of clean looking water.  When flushing through, I was surprised by the low flow out of the end of the hose. Big head loss through 70 ish metres of UFH pipe and then 20 ish metres of hose pipe.

 

I pressurised Loop 1 overnight and the pressure dropped form 3.5bar to 3.2 bar - Not ideal but far better than my attempts 4 years ago. I think loop 1 is the one I mangled when installing.

 

I'll do loop 2 tonight.

If you going to leave it over the winter don,t forget to add antifreeze to pipes  or blow them out dry , if it will see freezing temps 

Edited July 10, 2019 by scottishjohn

[daiking]

2 minutes ago, scottishjohn said:

If you going to leave it over the winter don,t forget to add antifreeze to pipes  or blow them out dry , if it will see freezing temps 

 

Always a good tip for anyone still building.

 

But I’ve been living in the extension for 3 & 1/2 years ?

[daiking]

This photo is from 12 July 2015 

 

nearly happy 4th birthday ?

 

but still I’ll have UFH before Onoff finishes his bathroom ?

[daiking]

Just wish I knew 4 years ago not to bring the pipes up exactly where 2 kitchen units

need to meet ?

[daiking]

So they’ve plumbed it but waiting for an electrician.

 

They’ve taken 22mm feeds from closer to the boiler and installed a number of valves leaving the existing 15mm stubs redundant 

[daiking]

Electrician came and connected it up but says he can't get the provided wireless thermostat and receiver to speak to each other.

[daiking]

S**t the f*****g bed, it’s working.

 

 

[daiking]

See the cooling thread reminded me that last Monday when I turned the ufh off the floor surface temp was over 27deg and was still at 27 deg the following evening ? Glad it is north and east facing so avoids most of the sun.

 

Wasnt the best time time of year to be doing this.

[daiking]

On 15/07/2019 at 21:28, daiking said:

S**t the f*****g bed, it’s working.

 

 

It’s not working ?

 

Nothing is happening. Tried reconnecting the wireless receiver with the controller but nothing. Hmmmm...

[daiking]

So this is a really simple Wunda system with a 

 

wireless receiver: https://cdn.wundatrade.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/E06-Wunda-single-zone-wireless-receiver-30-4-2018.pdf

 

wireless thermostat: https://cdn.wundatrade.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/E04-Wunda-generic-E8.2rf-wireless-thermostat-27-4-2018.pdf

 

It has been working for a while. The receiver has a solid red light on LED A. I can go through the pairing routine - press button for 4 seconds, LED flashes green. Then turns to red once thermostat has been set up to it. LED A goes solid red again.

 

Then, when you try to turn the heating on via the thermostat, nothing. No flashing red LED A to show receiving a signal and no LED B green to show calling for heat. Just nothing as you alternate ON/OFF with the stat, timed or manual.

 

Any idea?