Do I really need to use treated timeber for framing

[ricardo100671]

Wondering if treated timber is really a necessity if I will be fully and maticulously wrapping with breather mambrane, counter battening and cladding with T&G. Reason being I am buildiong a sauna and would rather not have treated timber that can offgas even though I will be lining with sauna foil. I will use treated for battens though

Has anyone build with just C16/C24 and had it last years without issue ?

[JohnMo]

Our garage is all Douglas Fir and Scottish larch, none of it is treated, as it all came straight from the mill. All the structural wood being Douglas Fir.

[Redbeard]

49 minutes ago, ricardo100671 said:

Has anyone build with just C16/C24 and had it last years without issue ?

Yes. Several stand-alone TF builds and extensions in last 18 yrs. None of them used treated timber. I take the view that if you design out as far as possible the pre-conditions for rot then using timber treated to resist rot is a bit over-kill. It seems to have worked for me so far. No Qs ever raised by BCO.

[SteamyTea]

2 hours ago, ricardo100671 said:

sauna

Made hundreds.

What timbers (note plural) are you intending to use?

White Pine or Teal where our choices for panel saunas and Abachi for the benches.

 

(I have a sauna controller cluttering up the place still, been in a box for over 30 years)

Edited 1 hour ago by SteamyTea

[Nickfromwales]

MBC and English Bros don’t, neither does Lowfield  iirc.

 

So “No”, and nor WOULD I want to use it as it’ll dry out and open up gaps, is shite for fixing regular wood screws into, and is heavy a feck until it eventually dries. 
 

Stick to good stock of C16 and C24 and be meticulous at the inner and outer sole plates, for DPC and cold bridging, and you’ll be fine for a half century.