Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I’m trying to get my head around heating design. We are building close to passive house timber frame. I have ufh downstairs and want provision for radiators upstairs. I’d like the ashp to part heat dhw if possible so presumably unvented indirect cylinder. A plumbing company locally have shared suggested design but is generic and what I’ve read is that low loss headers are not best with passive house. Any advice welcome as Would like to meet with them to talk through.

 Thanks

Proposed ASHP Layout - Charmaine.pdf

Posted

That diagram shows very little in reality.

 

Have you had a heat loss calculation done?  This is what sets the size of the heat pump (or any other thermal source) before DHW considerations, the length and spacing of the UFH pipework, the number, type and size of any radiators.

There are also other factors to take into account such as ACH, MVHR volumes and efficiencies, window sizes and orientations, PV.

 

The main things to understand is the difference between power [kW] and energy [kWh], temperature differences [ΔT], mass flow rates [{\displaystyle {\dot {m}}}], heat and specific heat capacities [C and c], temperature [K or °C] is not power or energy and that generally, in a modern house or any sort, the space heating loads are quite small, often in the region of 2 to 3 kW at a Δ20K.

Some rudimentary understanding of weather is also helpful i.e. we very rarely get extremely low, or high, temperatures for very long periods of time.  If you want that, move to Canada.

 

The main thing to watch out for is grossly oversized system, which your diagram seems to show.  Generally buffer tanks/ volumisers/low loss headers are not needed on a well designed system, but they do all have their place in some designs.

It may seem like a mine field, but once numbers are put into the design, it all starts to make sense.  Without the numbers, you get badly designed systems that are inefficient.

 

Posted
1 hour ago, junglejim said:

building close to passive house timber frame

And they are showing a 15kW heat pump. So unless you house is several 1000m² it's a bit large. 

 

Are you going for the grant or doing outside the grant?

 

I have found very little difference in running costs doing DHW via immersion only. Which is outside the grant allowed method of heating. But direct immersion heating reduces install cost and cylinder cost.

 

Heating design you have two options, but both options require a room by room heat loss calc, this allows sizing of room UFH array and radiator sizing. 

 

Option 1 is to run everything designed for the same flow temp. Then ideally run as a single zone.

 

Option 2 run at different flow temperature. Then you may need zones, your smallest zone defines system volume. Which you need to add water volume to meet a 20L x min output kW if heat source. But a mixer driven by ASHP could have it's own WC curve so be operated as a single zone.

 

No option above needs a LLH or buffer.

 

Another option is to do fan coils in rooms upstairs and this gives you bedroom cooling (radiators don't), the UFH can do heat or cool anyway.

Posted
2 hours ago, junglejim said:

A plumbing company locally have shared suggested design but is generic

 

That's not  design, it's just a basic schematic. For a design you need heat loss, cylinder and emitter sizing calcs at minimum outdoor design temperatures as an absolute minimum. You also really need the same things at your average outdoor temps to ensure your system can modulate sufficiently.

 

48 minutes ago, JohnMo said:

Option 1 is to run everything designed for the same flow temp. Then ideally run as a single zone.

 

That really isn't an option, even if loads of plumbers and some heating engineers think it is, especially with a house to passive standards.

 

7 minutes ago, SteamyTea said:


Or try this one https://renewableheatinghub.co.uk/the-ultimate-guide-to-heat-pumps-a-comprehensive-resource-for-homeowners/ 

 

Although not available for free!

Posted
1 hour ago, SimonD said:

 

That really isn't an option, even if loads of plumbers and some heating engineers think it is, especially with a house to passive standards

Explain? It close too which means what?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...