Nickfromwales Posted 21 hours ago Posted 21 hours ago 🫡 The section with the clip rails screwed down was where the 300L UVC was to reside. I wanted some ‘connection’ there, prob only for my own sanity / reassurance, and nowt else. I do enjoy doing stuff and getting zero complaints, so I’ll keep doing what I do because “if it ain’t broken……”.
Mulberry View Posted 21 hours ago Author Posted 21 hours ago 11 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Yup. Liquid Cemfloor screed straight onto that, 50-55mm thick, 60mm in 'places', job done. The only issue for me is that I can't accommodate that thickness of screed. However, I could go for a "halfway house" with the Roth system and their fibre reinforced liquid leveller (or another similar product), which they rate at 17mm total system thickness, so it'll be a few mm thicker by getting rid of the plastic grids. That's obviously not 16mm pipe though.
Nickfromwales Posted 21 hours ago Posted 21 hours ago 1 minute ago, Mulberry View said: The only issue for me is that I can't accommodate that thickness of screed. However, I could go for a "halfway house" with the Roth system and their fibre reinforced liquid leveller (or another similar product), which they rate at 17mm total system thickness, so it'll be a few mm thicker by getting rid of the plastic grids. That's obviously not 16mm pipe though. Can a 10 or 12mm pipe be part of that 17mm thickness?
Mulberry View Posted 21 hours ago Author Posted 21 hours ago Just now, Nickfromwales said: Can a 10 or 12mm pipe be part of that 17mm thickness? Yes, they prescribe 10.5mm pipe for 17mm total, or 16mm pipe for 25mm total. I'd like to try to make the UFH/Screed/Microcement layer compatible with thick carpet/underlay in adjoining room, so figured that 21mm total would work well against underlay and carpet. We don't need loads of heat in there. I also have a floor to ceiling window with only 50-55mm of frame to play with. The 10.5mm pipe solution gives me 41mm, the 16mm pipe would be 51mm.
Nickfromwales Posted 21 hours ago Posted 21 hours ago Just now, Mulberry View said: Yes, they prescribe 10.5mm pipe for 17mm total, or 16mm pipe for 25mm total. I'd like to try to make the UFH/Screed/Microcement layer compatible with thick carpet/underlay in adjoining room, so figured that 21mm total would work well against underlay and carpet. We don't need loads of heat in there. I also have a floor to ceiling window with only 50-55mm of frame to play with. The 10.5mm pipe solution gives me 41mm, the 16mm pipe would be 51mm. You'll prob need next to feck all heat up there anyways, so go with the slimmer option.
Mulberry View Posted 9 hours ago Author Posted 9 hours ago 11 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: You'll prob need next to feck all heat up there anyways, so go with the slimmer option. Although I need to look more closely at the quote, they've based the whole-house design on 40w/m2. I'm guessing that 10.5mm pipe at 75mm spacing is similar output as 16mm pipe at 150mm spacing. You're right though, this is more to give a warm feeling to the floor and what little bit of heat input might be needed.
SimonD Posted 9 hours ago Posted 9 hours ago 8 minutes ago, Mulberry View said: they've based the whole-house design on 40w/m2. I hope the UFH design has not just been drawn up to a standard 40w/m across the whole house and has actually taken into consideration the room-by-room losses, designing according to those? Also 40W/m2 seems quite high to be for an energy efficient build. 1
JohnMo Posted 9 hours ago Posted 9 hours ago (edited) 9 minutes ago, SimonD said: I hope the UFH design has not just been drawn up to a standard 40w/m across the whole house and has actually taken into consideration the room-by-room losses, designing according to those? Also 40W/m2 seems quite high to be for an energy efficient build. You beat me to it. I'm closer to 15W/m2 output at -9. Sounds like cosy feet and melted body to me at 40W/m2. The 75mm spacing make my 300mm strange, I still only flow 28 degs max. Edited 9 hours ago by JohnMo 2
SimonD Posted 9 hours ago Posted 9 hours ago 5 minutes ago, JohnMo said: You beat me to it. I'm closer to 15W/m2 output at -9. Sounds like cosy feet and melted body to me at 40W/m2. The 75mm spacing make my 300mm strange, I still only 28 degs max. I recently completed a design on a 1930s retrofit with cellulose insulation added to the suspended timbers floors and the ground floor U-values in that are between 29-36W/m2. The whole house average is 36W/m2.
Mulberry View Posted 9 hours ago Author Posted 9 hours ago 10 minutes ago, SimonD said: I hope the UFH design has not just been drawn up to a standard 40w/m across the whole house and has actually taken into consideration the room-by-room losses, designing according to those? Also 40W/m2 seems quite high to be for an energy efficient build. In fairness, this is an outline quote, we're not at design stage yet so a set of heat loss calculations has not yet been done. I guess they'll charge for that in the end? I'm trying to do that myself through Heatpunk, but it's tricky with my very irregular shaped house. I'm considering paying for the Pro level for a month or two so I can upload my plans! But that doesn't help with ceiling levels (I have sloped ceilings). I haven't added all the windows yet, but it looks like 21w/m2 on there at the minute.
Mulberry View Posted 9 hours ago Author Posted 9 hours ago 10 minutes ago, JohnMo said: You beat me to it. I'm closer to 15W/m2 output at -9. Sounds like cosy feet and melted body to me at 40W/m2. The 75mm spacing make my 300mm strange, I still only flow 28 degs max. I'm sure my proper UFH design will uncover that 40w/m2 is far too much. See my reply to @SimonD below. Thanks for your input, BH has been great to me, the support is helping me keep my head above the water (just about!). 1
SimonD Posted 9 hours ago Posted 9 hours ago 1 minute ago, Mulberry View said: In fairness, this is an outline quote, we're not at design stage yet so a set of heat loss calculations has not yet been done. I guess they'll charge for that in the end? I'm trying to do that myself through Heatpunk, but it's tricky with my very irregular shaped house. I'm considering paying for the Pro level for a month or two so I can upload my plans! But that doesn't help with ceiling levels (I have sloped ceilings). I haven't added all the windows yet, but it looks like 21w/m2 on there at the minute. Well, perfect timing. If you pop over to the tool I've developed at https://openheatloss.com you can model irregular shaped rooms (by breaking the room into segments) and each segment can use single or double pitched ceilings - it's text based, so you don't have to try and draw it. It's also open source and free so no need to upgrade your subscription. 1
JohnMo Posted 9 hours ago Posted 9 hours ago Just download a trial copy of loopcad for doing UFH design.
Nickfromwales Posted 6 hours ago Posted 6 hours ago 14 hours ago, Mulberry View said: so it'll be a few mm thicker by getting rid of the plastic grids Yup. Bin those off, as a box of 10mm nail clips is change of a tenner
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