Allthegearnoidea Posted 2 hours ago Posted 2 hours ago Hello All! We have a ground floor extension underway, and I need to get the drainage from the existing upstairs bathroom sorted before the roof can go on. We're adding a new W/C downstairs which has necessitated moving the soil stack over a few meters. (The underground drainage is already in place and signed off by building control with the upstairs W/C connected temporarily.) Moving the soil stack leaves me with the problem that the bath waste is now more than 4m away. I understand the max run for 40mm waste is up to 3m, and 50mm is up to 4m. This is what I have in mind. Blue = 40mm bath waste Green = 32mm basin waste Red = 110mm I was thinking it would be sensible to put rodding points in at A & B (with inspection covers internally). I'm planning to use one of these (or similar) for the 40mm to 110mm connection. Here's the house / extension in profile, so you can see that most of this pipework will be boxed in internally. So you can see the full picture, this is the arrangement of the upstairs W/C, showing what it would look like if 40mm pipe was used for the full run. The last diagram also shows the boiler condensate which I need to re-route into the bath waste. I plan to get this particular bit done by a Gas Safe registered plumber, but I'd still like to have a vague understanding of what needs to happen here so I can plan the other pipework accordingly - I'm not sure it's quite as simple as plumbing the condensate drain into a tee below the bath. Does the arrangement look OK (ie., compliant with building regs), and does anyone have any clues on what needs to happen to plumb the condensate drain into the bath waste? Thank you for any advice!
Redbeard Posted 2 hours ago Posted 2 hours ago I may have misunderstood, but if 40mm is limited to 3m, how is your 4.5m run (with a 90 deg bend in) OK? And is the length limitation about potential siphoning, or about the need for a rodding eye? If the latter then I can see how you could 'engineer' a rodding eye at the 90 deg bend so that it truly is 3.1m and 1.4m, but if it's about potential siphoning then you still have at least a theoretical problem...? Can you clarify?
Allthegearnoidea Posted 2 hours ago Author Posted 2 hours ago 10 minutes ago, Redbeard said: I may have misunderstood, but if 40mm is limited to 3m, how is your 4.5m run (with a 90 deg bend in) OK? And is the length limitation about potential siphoning, or about the need for a rodding eye? If the latter then I can see how you could 'engineer' a rodding eye at the 90 deg bend so that it truly is 3.1m and 1.4m, but if it's about potential siphoning then you still have at least a theoretical problem...? Can you clarify? Sorry, I've just realised that isn't too clear. This is what it would look like from inside the bathroom, so under 3m of 40mm from the bath. I'm just unsure about the transition into the 110mm, as I haven't seen it done this way before...
MPx Posted 1 hour ago Posted 1 hour ago I suspect you'll get horrible gurgling in the bath and sink if there's no air admittance valve upstream of the basin. Otherwise generally "better" to drop into the main sewer from the top rather than end (cap the end for rodding) - but you may not have enough fall available for that at the moment, and what you have in mind will work. 1
Allthegearnoidea Posted 1 hour ago Author Posted 1 hour ago 14 minutes ago, MPx said: I suspect you'll get horrible gurgling in the bath and sink if there's no air admittance valve upstream of the basin. Otherwise generally "better" to drop into the main sewer from the top rather than end (cap the end for rodding) - but you may not have enough fall available for that at the moment, and what you have in mind will work. Would one of these fitted to the basin help? Or do you think I would still have the same problem with the bath?
Allthegearnoidea Posted 1 hour ago Author Posted 1 hour ago Or I could try to get an AAV in here (in orange)...but it would be tough to get it above the basin trap height.
Nickfromwales Posted 16 minutes ago Posted 16 minutes ago The pipe off the 110mm should be 50mm up to where it heads in to the bath, turning in on a T with a rodding access (cleaning eye) for maintenance. From the 50mm T you reduce to 40mm to get to the bath T, and then the 40mm pipe continues to the boiler. That then terminates at a 40mm T with the centre of the T having a 40 > 21.5mm reducer in it for the boiler condensate, and a 40mm air admittance valve to complete the run. Absolutely ZERO need for a GSR plumber, this will just add wasted expense. 1
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