Masons mitre or butt joint for solid wood joint

[paro]

Hi All - It seems to be the norm to cut a mason mitre for worktops but I wasn't sure if that applies to solid wood tops also or if it matters. I figured either way there is the potential for movement with the solid wood so wasn't sure if it made a difference. A secondary question was if there is a recommended way to seal the joint for the purposes of avoiding any build of muck over time or whether its just something you live with. 

 

Thanks,Paul

[Mike]

I'm not aware of a better way. If you use adhesive and clamp it up with the bolts it should be resistant to movement and there really shouldn't be a build-up of muck.

[markc]

You only need a masons mitre if you have a pre formed chamfered or rolled edge. If doing solid top, mitre is great glued and bolted, then if you want a chamfer or rolled edge it can be done with a router after joining.

[Beau]

I fit solid wood worktops from time to time and always go for a butt joint. On a top of 600mm +  you are probably going to get a fair bit of movement so this needs to be allowed for. I use some biscuits to keep alignment often glueing the ones near the front leaving the movement to happen at the back of the top but this depends on other things like up stands etc. Also some worktop connectors on the underside to keep the joint tight. Any mitre on solid wood will most likely open up over time as expansion or shrinkage causes the angle of the wood to change. You can do any desired moulding on the completed worktop with a router. 

 

[paro]

Thanks all this has been helpful. Not least becasue I send the £100 trend jig back unused.

[Dunc]

+1 on butt joints with biscuits (not glued) and 2 or 3 bolts recessed in the underside.

Just a bit of CT1/OB1 at the top of the connecting faces before clamping up. Worked fine on my previous kitchen which had 3 joints in oak worktops.

Stainless steel screws in slotted brackets to hold it to the wall or units underneath.