Switching a Cool Energy ASHP between heating and cooling - on the actual unit as opposed to with the app or the internal control/display

[Bramco]

DI-6 works the same way as DI-4. So connecting to GND (8) sets the unit in 'Hot Water + Cooling/Heating'  depending on which one is connected.

 

Given we don't use the Hot Water modes, only Cooling or Heating, I'm going to have to find out how to switch off Hot Water....

[dpmiller]

DHW is called based on cylinder temp, so just put the setpoint to below ambient?

[Bramco]

Could do that and tbh, in the summer the tank is hot to overflowing with all the solar divert. I'd just have to remember to go back to heating only before the winter.

 

Although at ambient it wouldn't come on anyway...

Edited 18 hours ago by Bramco

[JohnMo]

32 minutes ago, Bramco said:

summer the tank is hot to overflowing with all the solar divert

Just stating obvious - if you get paid for export, a diverter may not be best for your pocket, with a heat pump. In summer heat pump will generate DHW with a CoP of around 4. Leaving you 3 units of PV kWh to export and be paid.

[Bramco]

1 hour ago, JohnMo said:

Just stating obvious

It's been stated many times......   😄

 

Sadly we have a DHW tank with an ASHP coil (3m2) BUT it's corrugated which leads to a lot of noise from air trapped in the corrugations. Manufacturer says - your problem mate. The fix is to replumb with a deareator etc to try to get rid of the air. So given we lose a bit on using the diverter rather than the ASHP, we have some way to go before it cancels out the cost of the replumbing - I'd also add a heat meter and the kit to be able to monitor the CoP, so it's not a cheap solution fix - and it may not work!

Edited 16 hours ago by Bramco

[JohnMo]

18 minutes ago, Bramco said:

I'd also add a heat meter and the kit to be able to monitor the CoP

You to fix the air in the system first, as any makes the flow meter of the heat monitoring system stop working. You also need to fix to stop corrosion in the system.

 

Mine just has an auto bottle trap where the red circle is. Including Tee was less than £20.

 

 

[Bramco]

22 minutes ago, JohnMo said:

You to fix the air in the system first, as any makes the flow meter of the heat monitoring system stop working. You also need to fix to stop corrosion in the system.

I know I do....   🙂     Long discussion here -> https://community.openenergymonitor.org/t/water-hammer-noises-and-heat-pump/26263

 

22 minutes ago, JohnMo said:

Mine just has an auto bottle trap where the red circle is. Including Tee was less than £20.

And you've been short changed - mine has a couple of those.  😄        and they haven't worked on the air trapped in the corrugations in the DHW tank.

Edited 15 hours ago by Bramco

[JohnMo]

1 hour ago, Bramco said:

And you've been short changed - mine has a couple of those. 

Not really - no air in mine, always comes out very easily - have one on cylinder very top of system, one on flow and return near ASHP at a high point, two on UFH manifold, and one in ASHP. All are closed off after initial filling and once no more air being caught. Then a week later go around and make sure no more air coming out.

 

1 hour ago, Bramco said:

and they haven't worked on the air trapped in the corrugations in the DHW tank

@Nickfromwales may be able to help. He fits Telford cylinders.

 

But have you tried to increase system pressure, this will dissolve any air bubbles. Run for an hour or so then slowly decrease system pressure and then air trapped air will have been transported, and could back out suspension and hopefully come out of auto vents.

 

"UFH buffer tank has 2 coils which are connected serially"

 

That is a strange configuration?

[Nickfromwales]

1 hour ago, JohnMo said:

2 hours ago, Bramco said:

 

@Nickfromwales may be able to help. He fits Telford cylinders.

AAV on the flow and another on the return, no issues from any I’ve fitted.