Little Clanger Posted yesterday at 10:43 Author Posted yesterday at 10:43 12 hours ago, John Carroll said: 21 ohms @ 230V, UK standard voltage? gives a power output of 2.519kW, it requires 9.42kWh to heat 162L from 10C to 60C so a max of 3 hrs 44min to achieve this, and just over 4 hours if stat set to 65C. Thanks for the calculations. That's interesting. I usually leave the immersion on for the full Economy 7 overnight 7 hours, on the principle that as it is thermostatically controlled, it will switch itself off when the set temperature is reached. Now, I will reset the timer to the minimum time required and see if that makes any difference.
Little Clanger Posted yesterday at 10:46 Author Posted yesterday at 10:46 12 hours ago, SteamyTea said: Could it be the sleeve the stat goes in is bent and touching the element? 12 hours ago, John Carroll said: ....... there's only one way to check it out, remove the heating element. In answer to both these points, yes, I'm resigned to draining the tank and taking the element out
SteamyTea Posted yesterday at 10:48 Posted yesterday at 10:48 1 minute ago, Little Clanger said: resigned to draining the tank and taking the element out Get the beach towels out.
JohnMo Posted yesterday at 11:35 Posted yesterday at 11:35 13 hours ago, John Carroll said: it requires 9.42kWh to heat 162L from 10C to 60C But it unlikely the whole cylinder will be at 10 degs, the bottom yes, but the top of the cylinder is likely to mid 30s or above 1
Little Clanger Posted 22 hours ago Author Posted 22 hours ago 5 hours ago, SteamyTea said: Get the beach towels out. 🙄
Little Clanger Posted 22 hours ago Author Posted 22 hours ago 5 hours ago, JohnMo said: But it unlikely the whole cylinder will be at 10 degs, the bottom yes, but the top of the cylinder is likely to mid 30s or above So immersion can be on for even shorter length of time?
Nickfromwales Posted 21 hours ago Posted 21 hours ago 21 hours ago, Little Clanger said: Initially, I'm renewing the thermostat in the lower immersion heater, with a different make (a Backer to replace a Tesla). A continuity test on the element gave me 21 ohms, which I understand is about right. Confusingly, it was working fine last night - heated a whole 162 litre cylinder without tripping. By the way, a note to NickfromWales - I haven't been able to follow your advice about returning the cylinder because I bought the cylinder without any immersion heaters fitted. I bought the immersion heaters from Screwfix, but didn't keep the receipt, so can't return them. You will have an e-account at Screwfix which they will pull up with your postcode usually. They would take them back without a receipt iirc, my mates a serial ‘returner’ there……. Worst case you’ll get a credit note.
Nickfromwales Posted 21 hours ago Posted 21 hours ago 6 hours ago, Little Clanger said: In answer to both these points, yes, I'm resigned to draining the tank and taking the element out My work here is done lol 🥳
John Carroll Posted 20 hours ago Posted 20 hours ago (edited) 1 hour ago, Little Clanger said: So immersion can be on for even shorter length of time? You might save a few bob due to the tiny bit extra of cylinder losses but it won't fix your current problem. Assuming the top 40L or so still at 60C when the night heating cuts in then you will have to heat 120L of mains water at (my) 12C to 60C, requiring, 120*(60-12)/860, 6.7kWh, add say another kWh for cylinder losses, 6.7+1.0, 7.7kWh, requiring 7.7/2.519, 3.06hrs, say 3hrs 15 minutes and a very worst case of, assuming a whole cylinder reheat, of 160*(60-12)/860/2.519, 3.55hrs, say 4hrs, you will be well covered to programme it on for 4hrs before the end of the night rate as this will cover cold mains at 5/6C in the debths of winter. Edited 20 hours ago by John Carroll
Little Clanger Posted 17 hours ago Author Posted 17 hours ago 3 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: You will have an e-account at Screwfix which they will pull up with your postcode usually. They would take them back without a receipt iirc, my mates a serial ‘returner’ there……. Worst case you’ll get a credit note. OK, thanks
Little Clanger Posted 17 hours ago Author Posted 17 hours ago 3 hours ago, John Carroll said: You might save a few bob due to the tiny bit extra of cylinder losses but it won't fix your current problem. Assuming the top 40L or so still at 60C when the night heating cuts in then you will have to heat 120L of mains water at (my) 12C to 60C, requiring, 120*(60-12)/860, 6.7kWh, add say another kWh for cylinder losses, 6.7+1.0, 7.7kWh, requiring 7.7/2.519, 3.06hrs, say 3hrs 15 minutes and a very worst case of, assuming a whole cylinder reheat, of 160*(60-12)/860/2.519, 3.55hrs, say 4hrs, you will be well covered to programme it on for 4hrs before the end of the night rate as this will cover cold mains at 5/6C in the debths of winter. Again, thanks for the calculations, John
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