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Awkward boss strap leak


Pocster

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This has leaked before . Used tiger seal ( bought white deliberately so I can see it ) .
Been fine for many months .

The white waste is grey water pumped up . I can hear the water hit the back of the main drain pipe so I assume it’s splashing up and finding a slight gap in the seal .

The problem with the tiger seal is it’s a tube in a caulk gun - I really need to get over the top of the boss strap and apply something .

Anything similar but perhaps applied with a brush ? . I’ll be doing it blind I.e can’t see top of boss strap .

 

ta

 

IMG_1044.jpeg

IMG_1045.jpeg

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2 minutes ago, joe90 said:

The problem is the boss should be solvent welded on so any external sealer is not ideal. Can you not remove the boss, and re fix or replace and solvent weld it on properly?

That would be a mega nightmare !

It was originally solvent welded . Tested . Seemed all good - then the leak some time later . Hence the white tiger seal .

I can run a tap continuously and zero leak . I suspect when there’s more water the splashing causes the issue e.g emptying a bowl of water when perhaps washing machine is emptying . Pump’s busy then ; the water flow is greater .

So I suspect a tiny gap on the top of the boss . Can get my phone camera in there to look . Nothing obvious - no damp spot anywhere .

I could do a nasty cheat 🙄 . You can see the plastic wall membrane which leads to the perimeter drain … So a simple ‘canopy’ to redirect the occasional drip to that would solve it .

But I don’t do bodges ! We ALL know that ! 👍

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32 minutes ago, Pocster said:

That would be a mega nightmare !

What if you cut that white pipe away from the boss, remove boss completely and replace. I have been looking for a slip ring for 40mm (or whatever size you have) in solvent weld but can’t find one but you might) 

 

i case you are not aware a slip ring is a straight joiner without the stop in the middle so you can “slip” it on then pull it back over the join. Otherwise use a straight joiner and carefully file away the stop in the middle. I have done this on jobs before and saves lots of work 🤷‍♂️

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Just now, joe90 said:

What if you cut that white pipe away from the boss, remove boss completely and replace. I have been looking for a slip ring for 40mm (or whatever size you have) in solvent weld but can’t find one but you might) 

 

i case you are not aware a slip ring is a straight joiner without the stop in the middle so you can “slip” it on then pull it back over the join. Otherwise use a straight joiner and carefully file away the stop in the middle. I have done this on jobs before and saves lots of work 🤷‍♂️

The white pipe has no play on it . So if I did cut it would be a mare to get into the boss strap . I think it’s a 32mm pipe . I think I understand what you’re saying - a coupler without the central ‘lip’ . Going to be a (expletive deleted)er to get that solvent welded AND slipped back enough before it sets surely ???

The black pipe is the main drain ( obviously ) the final point before it leaves the build . So removing the boss means no toilets/drains until done . Feels like mission suicide to do that !

The real issue with the boss is I can’t get too / see the other side - so you are kind of hoping on a water tight seal .

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@joe90 if we didn’t live here or SWMBO was away for a week I might be tempted to remove the boss as I really should . But … a tiny drip as I have could become a new major problem if I did this . For laughs if you look at my 1st photo you’ll see a 2nd capped off boss strap fitting . That was my first error 🤣 ; the angle of it is just out ; the white waste wouldn’t run into it !! . Access ( as it’s away from the wall ) was much better though . That one probably doesn’t leak 😂😂😂

Edited by Pocster
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8 minutes ago, Pocster said:

though . That one probably doesn’t leak 😂😂😂

That’s called “Sod’s Law”


how long is that white pipe? 32mm is quite flexible to bend out of the way. If it’s a little leak wait till she is away tho whole job should not take more than a couple of hours !!!

19 minutes ago, Pocster said:

Going to be a (expletive deleted)er to get that solvent welded AND slipped back enough before it sets surely ???


the trick is to get it done with no solvent glue applied, get the slip ring on one end and the pipes in line, smother the pipe where the slip ring is going to be then slip it over the glue in one go, using a threaded/screwing  action. Easy peasy 😎

 

 

I once had to work in a downstairs maisonette and got the upstairs to not pull the flush or put any water down the drain for a couple of hours to do a similar job on the common drain down stairs 👍

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8 minutes ago, joe90 said:

That’s called “Sod’s Law”

Absolutely!

 

9 minutes ago, joe90 said:

how long is that white pipe? 32mm is quite flexible to bend out of the way. If it’s a little leak wait till she is away tho whole job should not take more than a couple of hours !!!

About 4m I think . Probably not 1 continuous length so will have a weld coupler somewhere .

 

Until SWMBO leaves ( or disappears for a week ) I’ll have to settle with ‘smear joint hope for best ‘ approach…..

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12 minutes ago, Pocster said:

or disappears for a week

Come on you pussy, only an hours work, two at the most, she can cross her legs for that long surely. 
 

p.S. I always sand the areas to be glued to make sure the glue works best and lots of it from a fresh pot. 

Edited by joe90
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8 minutes ago, joe90 said:

Come on you pussy, only an hours work, two at the most, she can cross her legs for that long surely. 
 

p.S. I always sand the areas to be glued to make sure the glue works best and lots of it from a fresh pot. 

It’s like my tires a bit flat , I could put some air in it and see what happens or remove the entire thing and fit a new tyre .

One of those is asking for trouble .

 

I’ll grow some hair around it another day .

Trying to generate work for me ffs ! 🤣

Edited by Pocster
Pussy
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4 minutes ago, joe90 said:

Why what else are you going to do. It’s not like you have a day job? (Tin hat on).🥷

Oi @joe90 ! . Don’t you do a Labour on us LL’s ( get money for doing feck all ) . Still got a few years on my build aswell of work .

Come and visit again and you’ll go “oh , there is still a bit too do “ 😝

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When originally solvent welded and leaking you should have used gap filling PVC cement.

 

Now that you've applied Tiger Seal I'd stick with that. It should work if you can find the hole, even if wet. The PU sealants displace water so should be good.

 

As for not being able to see / get around the back, well...fire up the Bambu! 

 

Screenshot_20241216-135232.thumb.png.6ff2db9f322963f95418a40deaa00333.png

 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4215459

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22 minutes ago, Onoff said:

When originally solvent welded and leaking you should have used gap filling PVC cement.

 

Now that you've applied Tiger Seal I'd stick with that. It should work if you can find the hole, even if wet. The PU sealants displace water so should be good.

 

As for not being able to see / get around the back, well...fire up the Bambu! 

 

Screenshot_20241216-135232.thumb.png.6ff2db9f322963f95418a40deaa00333.png

 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4215459

Ooooo (expletive deleted) me ! I love a bendy one !

Nice one !

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36 minutes ago, joe90 said:

Oh I am sure there is (just sh1t stirring mate) for those of us that are interested what is your “to do list” like?

I know mate ! . Can’t do a list - I just walk around looking at 500 things and think “ must finish that “ …

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51 minutes ago, Pocster said:

Looking at this again ..

Trouble is you won’t know where the solvent weld has failed and the water will just track under the fitting till gravity pulls it out at the lowest point, grow a pair and rip it off and do it properly.

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Just now, joe90 said:

Trouble is you won’t know where the solvent weld has failed and the water will just track under the fitting till gravity pulls it out at the lowest point, grow a pair and rip it off and do it properly.

No ! . Use the sugar !

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