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New opening steel beam and pitched roof snagging


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Hello everyone,

I am a first time homeowner doing renovation work to an existing extension.

Scope:
1. New pitched roof with 2 velux windows.
2. Install steel beam for a bifold door.

The work has been completed, but as I am a novice I had another builder take a look at the work to ensure it was done correctly.

He spotted a few issues:


Pitched roof feedback:

  1. Wood under roof tiles exposed. Need flashings.
    image.thumb.jpeg.9f365f30c0ebc8335c7a5d2468c3d486.jpeg
    image.thumb.jpeg.c5b54495a242529238854847ece39146.jpeg
  2. No DPC under woodwork. Needs DPC.
    image.thumb.jpeg.6f3481cefc561f56116319e1bf94eb8b.jpeg
  3. No joist hangers around double velux windows.  
    image.thumb.jpeg.04f77c924a80022980992e4dbd0428d5.jpeg
  4. No jiffy hangers and lateral restraints. Roof carpentry is fixed to wall.
    image.thumb.jpeg.ca3191d02c2d001ee46e7af61f5f8428.jpeg

image.thumb.jpeg.4acd6511f7c2c3abca40644537ec7618.jpeg

Bifold opening feedback:

  1. Steel Beam - left side has padstone, right side does not have padstone but has some sort of metal plate on top of grey blockwork.
    Is it okay to rest steel plate on top of rey blockwork, or should it be on catnic, lintel or a padstone?
    Can grey blockwork disintegrate over time from the steel beam load?

    image.thumb.jpeg.d5a19fdbd2982d56c2a398053d052546.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.e05b79cf95326a9373739ef00c46bb6d.jpeg
     

At this stage, I don't want make my builder feel disrespected or that I am nit picking if he has done a good job, but at the same time I don't want to have spent a fortune only to rectify costly mistakes after decoration is finished because a builder cut corners.

Can I please get your views?

Thank you for your time in advance.

Alistair

image.jpeg

Edited by Alistair Shaw
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  • Alistair Shaw changed the title to New opening steel beam and pitched roof snagging

It really needs a structural engineer to do an inspection rather than a builder.

 

Sometimes joists hangers are needed, sometimes skew nailing is acceptable. Similarly for the ledger plate connection (although the single lone fixing definitely looks a bit weedy) and padstone questions. If there's a steel presumably there are structural calculations available so it's not starting from scratch.

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not good.

 

1. the pitch is far too flat for those rosemary tiles, they should be absolute minimum of 35deg pitch otherwise will let water through.

2. dont need DPC under wall plate but it wont hurt either.

3. yes should have had padstones under steel - didnt building control pick this up ?

4. you can see the batten on first row as there isnt the pitch to hide it, doesn't help they haven't used eaves tray and found the most bowed eaves tiles ever made to kick it up even more.

5. the exposed virge mess could be covered up with dry kit (should have been dry from start really).

 

I'd be wanting that covering taking off, making a warm deck if you have the hight and covering with rubber. Come winter and driving rain will have water inside and then you are hoping on the felt which wont last.

 

How much did you pay for the job ?  £25k and i wouldnt be happy, £15k and its about right.

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1. The roof gauge has been set out incorrectly. The first row of tiles should overhang into the gutter, ideally it would be 1/3-1/2 way across, whereas this looks like its only just over the gutter. Also the roofer has used tile and a halfs for the eaves by the look of it, so it will be out of bond every 3rd tile.

 

2.Not the end of the world, I wouldn't go back to put it in

 

3&4. Should be fine. Check it is nailed and not screwed, as many "builders" who think they are carpenters use screws!

 

Bifolds:

Cut off section of lintel is generally ok, but check with the building inspector before covering over.

 

Metal shim under the steel is the correct thing to use, better than packing it with slate. Check that it is level though!

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Posted (edited)

Appreciate your input @Dave Jones, thank you.

1. Here is another photo for better view of the extension roof.
2. I carefully selected Private Building Control but they have been hapless. The inspector was disorganised (and unprofessional), changes and misses appointments at his convenience, forgets things he has signed off, mixes up my address with other site inspections he's carried out etc.  He did not pick up any of the above issues.

made a complaint to the private Building Control company and they were not helpful at all. 

3. I paid £4,900 for roof work and materials. Veux windows £1600 Tiles £1200
image.jpeg


4. Bifold Steel beam supply and fit £930

Edited by Alistair Shaw
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Posted (edited)

Hi @bassanclan

Thank you very much for your helpful input!

"1. The roof gauge has been set out incorrectly. The first row of tiles should overhang into the gutter, ideally it would be 1/3-1/2 way across, whereas this looks like its only just over the gutter. Also the roofer has used tile and a halfs for the eaves by the look of it, so it will be out of bond every 3rd tile."

Yes, I thought the first row of tiles should overhang the gutter.  
Does this need to be remediated, what are the cons if I don't? Is this an easy or expensive fix? I would like to call them back, but have a feeling they won't come back for free. ☹️ 


"2.Not the end of the world, I wouldn't go back to put it in."
Thank you!

"3&4. Should be fine. Check it is nailed and not screwed, as many "builders" who think they are carpenters use screws!"
Thank you!

"Bifolds:
Cut off section of lintel is generally ok, but check with the building inspector before covering over."

Thank you!

I just want to say I really appreciate everyone's input.

We are not rich, this is our first home, and this spend is life changing money for us.

Edited by Alistair Shaw
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You have got the extension work done very cheaply! It looks like a 5x3m extension which should cost a minimum of £15k, so the fact that you might not get them back is to be expected!

 

You definitely cannot keep the roof as it is. It will let water in, certainly the bottom couple of courses.

 

Find a roofer by word of mouth, local Facebook groups etc. Hopefully you can get away with stripping off the bottom few rows of tiles, but you would see the change in gauge.

 

You will need to buy some eaves tiles so keep things cordial with the original builder and find out the exact roof tiles you have got.

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@bassanclan 

God bless you friend, you have really helped me out.

I spoke with many people, including the roof supplies shop where I got the tiles from, structural engineer, building control, etc and nobody was helpful with what I needed to do, and what issues needed remediation. They sent me in circles contradicting one another.

I didn't want make my builder feel disrespected if he had done a good job, but at the same time my gut told me these issues looked wrong.

I appreciate your input very much.

Have a fab weekend. 🙂🍻

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@George

 

Thank you for the helpful input. 

 

As a newbie, I fell into the trap of the builder trying to be helpful and telling me I didn't need BC or structural engineer for the bifold opening steel beam. I believed him and appreciated him saving me money as every £100 counts. Now in hindsight that ledger plate didn't sit well with me and I'm surprised he did that. I have about 500 bricks leftover from the job, so he didn't even have to use block work, he could have used brick under the steel beam. 🙁💭💭💭

 

I do have a structural engineer and I've reached out to him to come and visit following your post. 

 

Again, really appreciate you taking time to share knowledge and help a stranger in need. 😊🙏🍻

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