Simplest UFH component set from Wunda

[efkor]

There are some truly sophisticated UFH setups described here in this community. However, I have taken on board the wisdom of those who say that a passiv style house does not need such wizardry. My thermal blanket is a minimum 250mm on floor, walls and roof and I am tying the UFH pipes to the nominal 6mm mesh in the non-structural 175mm concrete slab. UFH is only on the ground floor and towel rails/shower mats will be electric-heated. (I've gratefully borrowed lots of your implementations!). As Wunda have got multiple thumbs up from you, I asked them to quote for the simplest solution (no actuators) of 1 zone and 5 loops of around 60m each. This is their quote:

1x 6 port manifold - £134.95+vat

1x Wilo pump station - £179.00 

1x Isolation valves - £10.00+vat

3x 100m 16mm pert al pert pipe - £177.00+vat

1x Standard hardwire thermostat - £25.00+vat

1x Floor probe - £5.00+vat

1x Pallet Delivery - £30.00+vat

Total including vat = £673.14

 

I'm very pleased with both the price and the speed of their response. I'll fit the kit myself and ask my electrician to wire it in. I'm just wondering if you can see if any bits are missing off the list.

[Moonshine]

a beautiful UFH manifold cabinet (though it may be a bit tight for 6 ports)

 

 

[John Carroll]

Maybe no harm in getting two thermometers like shown as they give useful info on the UFH flow and return temperatures, ask them can these can be installed on your basic version.

Edited February 29 by John Carroll

[JohnMo]

13 minutes ago, efkor said:

1x 6 port manifold - £134.95+vat

1x Wilo pump station - £179.00 

1x Isolation valves - £10.00+vat

3x 100m 16mm pert al pert pipe - £177.00+vat

1x Standard hardwire thermostat - £25.00+vat

1x Floor probe - £5.00+vat

1x Pallet Delivery - £30.00+vat

Total including vat = £673.14

Dump the hard wired thermostat and get a wireless one, so you move to best position once you get the system commissioned. Use a 0.1 Deg hysterisis thermostat, like a Computherm Q20RF (from Amazon). Thick floors take many hours to respond. A normal 0.3-0.5 Deg hysterisis leads to big temperature swings.  No need for a floor probe, adds nothing if your flowing low temps.

 

If you are going to use a mixer get a good one either IVAR (low temp one) or ESBE electronic.

 

What do you need the isolation valve for? Just switch the pump on/off via the thermostat. The flow is pulled through the mixer, once pump stops so does flow into the floor.

 

 

[BotusBuild]

Erm, the obvious thing for me is how you will get 5 loops of 60m each WITHOUT having joints in your UFH loops.

 

Very recommended to have each loop as one continuous piece of pipe

Edited February 29 by BotusBuild

[JohnMo]

50 minutes ago, BotusBuild said:

Erm, the obvious thing for me is how you will get 5 loops of 60m each WITHOUT having joints in your UFH loop

That's a very good point. May be better buying different lengths than 100m or planning the loop layout, so you get to get 3x100m loops. One of my loops does half the hall, main shower room and kitchen diner. Then you only need to 3 port manifold.

[efkor]

Some great points have been made.

JohnMo, I agree with everything you say ... a wireless thermostat gives flexibility on final location ... dump the floor probe and the isolation valve (no idea why they were included in the quotation) ... and include a good mixer (probably a wise add-on).

BotusBuild, you are so right, I can't get 5 x 60m runs out of a 300m pipe!! Good spot and JohnMo picked that up and suggested 3 x 100m loops and a 3-port loop. You know what, I can rejig the design and so that works for me!

John Carroll suggested 2 thermometers to monitor the flow and return temperatures and I think they will be useful, giving some confirmation on the system efficiency.

The only idea I'm not going for is putting the manifold in a cabinet because I'm more than happy seeing rows of gleaming pipes and manifolds in the plant room!

[efkor]

Correction ... I can't get 5 x 60m runs out of 3 x 100m pipes

[ringi]

Half of that part list is not needed unless you are also putting radators in the system.  Even then I question the pump/mixer rather then letting the pump in the heatpump/boiler do it all.