Size matters doesn't it - but what about Connecting Nuts: does length matter?

[ToughButterCup]

Building on this thread   (how to connect a glass juliet to the house so it doesn't fall off ), I'm well on with the ancillary stuff.

 

Now, have a look at this.....

 

 

 

The thing that holds the glass has a threaded bar sticking out of it. That connects to the stainless steel threaded connector, shown below. And in turn they both connect to the threaded stainless (M10) bar  going through the house wall (Detail here) 

 

• What's the nick in the threaded nut for ? Top / Bottom / Left / Right / Standing End / Floating End / a groove to confuse Anal Germans?
• The threaded connector nut is 30mm long - but the exposed thread from the juliet mounting block is also 30mm long

 

Should I get a 70mm (or 80mm) M10 threaded connector instead?

Or will the 30mm threaded connector  do (15mm for the fitting, 15mm for the threaded rod)  if I just make up the difference with (say) S/S washers ?

 

It 'feels' like I should get a 70mm connector . But I've been known to be wrong before now. Hence this post

Edited February 27 by ToughButterCup

[saveasteading]

1 hour ago, ToughButterCup said:

It 'feels' like I should get a 70mm connector

I recall that a nut should go on and leave 3 turns of the bolt thread exposed, because the start is tapered and the others not full strength. So you could work out how far a normal nut would go on, and thence how far this connector should fit on each rod, and pack accordingly.

Or get 70mm connectors.

It is odd though. Isn't there instruction?

 

AHAA!  the notches mimic the shape of the other face of a normal nut. That is how much (plus 3 threads) should be on each rod as a minimum...probably.

I've seen that such connectors are always (?) 3 x the diameter. Therefore, by default,  you need half on each stud and that must be sufficient.

[Pocster]

😉

[dpmiller]

often the notch/nick in that nut would denote it being left-hand thread at that end