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Glazing options for narrow slits


mickeych

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This is an odd one!

 

We are converting an old threshing barn and have started looking at glazing costs and suppliers and we realised that the 10 breather 'arrow' slits in the barn are too narrow for any standard window.

They are a variety of sizes between 125 and 150mm wide and from 600-700mm tall. 

I am thinking that we can probably have some glazing panels made up (although there do appear to be limitations around the minimum width of panel) and then recesss them in the wall.

The question is how?

 

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To maximise light (and look authentic ) I would have thought you need frameless panels set in the brick/stone in some sort of non setting mastic 🤷‍♂️ depends if you can narrow enough double glazing panels made. 
 

read this, might help.  http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=8562

Edited by joe90
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Is it on show in a room?

We're doing one that is in a gable and is a void space. So we're putting battens on the internal face then polycarbonate.

That leaves the full visual effect from outside and kills all draughts and sufficient heat loss.

Where it will be visible in a room, we haven't done if yet. But probably a skinny frame about midway, ie what looks best as balance of seeing the feature and glass area. Perhaps a home made timber frame?

 

I can't picture how frameless works in a tapering slot, with roughish masonry.

There must be hundreds of examples, for better or worse. I think most conversions must blank them on the inside.

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2 hours ago, joe90 said:

To maximise light (and look authentic ) I would have thought you need frameless panels set in the brick/stone in some sort of non setting mastic 🤷‍♂️ depends if you can narrow enough double glazing panels made. 
 

read this, might help.  http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=8562

I think that this was initially my thought but then as @saveasteading points out they are all on show in the various rooms in the house and in 1 or 2 cases they are the only wall apertures allowed by conservation. At the 'front' of the barn the slots have quoins around them (looks like these were the 'showy' ones) and the others are framed by estate red brick. The outside of the slots have been chopped about over the years too, so we will need to make good the quoins and brickwork and as they taper inwards, we can move the glazing back into the 'hole' to make it fit with 150mm as the minimum width but it may look a little odd. 

Maybe a combined approach of bonding the glazing directly in to the opening with a very skinny home made wooden frame painted up on the inside?

arrow slits.jpg

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3 hours ago, saveasteading said:

That's interesting that there is the partial use of brick. I can't think why.

Are these slits all tapered?

Yes they taper out quite considerably so the width on the outside is around 130-170mm and on the inside is around 225-300

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4 minutes ago, mickeych said:

Yes they taper out quite considerably

That’s good to optimise light from a small hole. I would want the glazing as far outside as possible so can you confirm the narrowest double glazed unit you can get made then see where it can be installed. Any frame you have will make the glazing smaller which is not good IMO.

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39 minutes ago, Jilly said:

The brick work inside (and I suspect outside too) is so characterful, it’s a shame to clad it with insulation. Can you mitigate by more elsewhere? 

The whole barn is like this outside and inside the mixture of estate bricks and the rubble stone.  It is stunning and such a shame that it will be covered with insulation, but we are limited by the regulations and practicality of trying to make the building an inhabitable space. We are aiming to expose as many of the original features as possible such as the timber 'shoulders' and the trusses and purlins too but as with all these things, we are having to spend a lot of time and money on trying to save the fabric of the building.

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1 minute ago, joe90 said:

That’s good to optimise light from a small hole. I would want the glazing as far outside as possible so can you confirm the narrowest double glazed unit you can get made then see where it can be installed. Any frame you have will make the glazing smaller which is not good IMO.

agreed and I have a plan to further accentuate the size of the aperture by continuing (and increasing the angle of) the taper as we frame and insulate it. This should in theory give us openings of around 400-450mm on the inside. We are also aiming to insert downlights into the frame to provide back lighting 

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