Fitment advice

[craig]

10 hours ago, Iceverge said:

Maybe @craig has a better detail. Also his expert eye might be able to judge the installers effort better than me. 

 

Having a look over the topic, need to ascertain what the problem is and the end question and will come back to it later today.

[JackofAll]

13 hours ago, Iceverge said:

There may be an issue with the clearance being too tight on the sides of the windows with hinges and I'm unsure of your planned window board detail as it'd be very tight even with OSB window boxes when your  frames only have 32mm clearance

 

 

[JackofAll]

70mm from opening sash as the inner leaf opening was 20mm wider each side. The bottom section of inside leaf was cut down so approx 50mm to th bottom of opening sash.

Edited February 15 by JackofAll
Omission

[JackofAll]

3 hours ago, craig said:

 

Having a look over the topic, need to ascertain what the problem is and the end question and will come back to it later today.

Thanks, Originally ply/osb boxes were to cantilever off inner leaf butting up to frame of window. Due to strapping sloping up toward the bottom of window this cannot be achieved as the straps will fowl the ply/osb. How do I overcome this? Will the straps need to be removed?

[craig]

The first question is there appears to be no cill extension at the bottom of the window. Where is the cill extension, was this offered with the windows or was it offered without. If without, was it because the window is face drained or are the windows bottom drained? If bottom drained, then how is the external cill connected to expel the water or is the stone cill being used? You'll know if it's face drained, as it will have slots on the frame externally and cover caps over the slots. 

 

 

If the cill extension was present, then the window sits up 30mm approx. and you don't have the issue but you are where you are. 

 

Take of the bottom brackets, fit an L bracket instead to the outer wall and you're not bridging the cavity tying back to the inner wall. You'll pick up the below brackets in Screwfix

 

 

Secondly, ground floor, where's the lockable handle on the window? It should have one, you'll need lockable handles for your home insurance to be valid unless this is an escape window.

 

You should have approx. 20mm of the frame all around to overlap for finishing, the less the better as you're going to be tight for tolerances.

 

 

Edited February 15 by craig

[JackofAll]

4 hours ago, craig said:

The first question is there appears to be no cill extension at the bottom of the window. Where is the cill extension, was this offered with the windows or was it offered without. If without, was it because the window is face drained or are the windows bottom drained? If bottom drained, then how is the external cill connected to expel the water or is the stone cill being used? You'll know if it's face drained, as it will have slots on the frame externally and cover caps over the slots. 

 

 

If the cill extension was present, then the window sits up 30mm approx. and you don't have the issue but you are where you are. 

 

Take of the bottom brackets, fit an L bracket instead to the outer wall and you're not bridging the cavity tying back to the inner wall. You'll pick up the below brackets in Screwfix

 

 

Secondly, ground floor, where's the lockable handle on the window? It should have one, you'll need lockable handles for your home insurance to be valid unless this is an escape window.

 

You should have approx. 20mm of the frame all around to overlap for finishing, the less the better as you're going to be tight for tolerances.

 

 

Face drained window and lime stone cill. Tbh never heard of an extension until reading your post. Am I right in saying drill the cill to mount L bracket to and then screw up into window frame? Now that you mention lockable handles, never occurred to me, none of the windows have them, is this something that I should have requested or something that should have been provided?

[craig]

2 hours ago, JackofAll said:

Am I right in saying drill the cill to mount L bracket to and then screw up into window frame?

To the external wall then up into the frame, it’s going to be a bit of a ballache tbh.

 

2 hours ago, JackofAll said:

is this something that I should have requested or something that should have been provided?

Something that should have been requested and pointed out to you tbh, for the reason mentioned.

Edited February 15 by craig

[Iceverge]

10 hours ago, craig said:

Secondly, ground floor, where's the lockable handle on the window? It should have one, you'll need lockable handles for your home insurance to be valid unless this is an escape window.

 

Didn't have these either, Maybe it's an Ireland vs UK thing.

[craig]

Just now, Iceverge said:

Maybe it's an Ireland vs UK thing

It’s an insurance thing, policy should be checked regarding lockable windows and doors. They can void any insurance claim for break ins/stolen items as a result.

 

One of the biggest cartels going and they’ll take any reason not to pay out.

[Iceverge]

Just checked my policy, it says nothing about locked windows. just closed and fastened.

 

@craig have you had a glance at my suggested detail for the jambs and head if the window?

 

Any comments?

[craig]

Yeah, it’s a good option if he has the space for it. I think at 20mm the window at 90-degree open is going to be a bit tight.

 

10 to 15mm overlap would be ideal in this situation.

Edited February 16 by craig

[Iceverge]

Just now, craig said:

Yeah, it’s a good option if he has the space for it. I think at 20mm the window at 90-degree open is going to be a bit tight.

 

10 to 15mm overlap would be ideal in this situation.

I was thinking that but using a scaled drawing I couldn't see the screwing into the frame going well if it was any wider. 

 

I guess there is the option still to use the  20mm setback to have slightly splayed reveals. 

 

 

[craig]

I’d CT1 it in place if there wasn’t a screw fixing. They problem he’d have is movement of the building/window.

[Iceverge]

Adhere the J bead to the window you mean?

 

wouldn't that be very slow and messy?

[JackofAll]

Thanks lads,

Will have a look tomorrow, would CT1 really be strong enough to hold the bead? Herself has suggested cutting OSB and slipping it in behind the straps on the jambs and screwing through the straps to hold OSB in place and then sticking plasterboard to that. Would imagine that we'd need to put membrane on first before fitting OSB. An option or just extra work?

[Iceverge]

The bottom of the window will be the issue I think. How much clearance is there under the sash to the edge of the frame? 

 

How thick are you planning on having your window boards? 

 

 

 

[JackofAll]

20 hours ago, Iceverge said:

The bottom of the window will be the issue I think. How much clearance is there under the sash to the edge of the frame? 

 

How thick are you planning on having your window boards? 

 

 

 

32mm, but I cut the innerleaf block down about 15mm so 47 ish, hard to hold a consaw in the horizontal position:-)

Edited February 18 by JackofAll

[JackofAll]

25mm window board as it seems to be the most common

[Iceverge]

Ok how about this. 

 

Apply the tape and membrane as above to the 4 sides to air seal the window. Including the brackets. 

 

Then but one of these. 

 

 

 

And screw it into the bottom of the window using something like this. 

 

 

 

It'd be better to get the screws into the steel frame of the window. 

 

 

 

There's a rough sketch. 

 

1. Red tape and airtighess member. 

2. Green angle bracket

3. Orange self drilling screw into steel frame. 

4. Blue window board. 

 

You can level the inside of the board with timber on top of the wall. 

 

Or perhaps leave a slant towards the room. It'll be less lightly to catch the opening window then with only 7mm clearance. 

[JackofAll]

47 minutes ago, Iceverge said:

Ok how about this. 

 

Apply the tape and membrane as above to the 4 sides to air seal the window. Including the brackets. 

 

Then but one of these. 

 

 

 

And screw it into the bottom of the window using something like this. 

 

 

 

It'd be better to get the screws into the steel frame of the window. 

 

 

 

There's a rough sketch. 

 

1. Red tape and airtighess member. 

2. Green angle bracket

3. Orange self drilling screw into steel frame. 

4. Blue window board. 

 

You can level the inside of the board with timber on top of the wall. 

 

Or perhaps leave a slant towards the room. It'll be less lightly to catch the opening window then with only 7mm clearance. 

Thanks @Iceverge, will be starting the reveals this week, this is a great help. Just wondering would 15mm PB on reveals be better or not?

[Iceverge]

It'd be a bit stronger but not massively. 

 

It'd be a thicker J bead too so maybe harder to screw into the correct place. 

 

The sketches I did use your actual profile. You can see how tight it is. .

[JackofAll]

There was a gap left over each window/door where dpc comes out, due to nothing to foam against. Am thinking of cutting a piece of PIR to fit in from inside up to the inner face of outer leaf ontop of window so there is something to foam against. As PIR has a different u value to dritherm 37 would there be any issues in doing so? Also any ideas how to keep pir in place?

Edited February 23 by JackofAll