Large format wall tiling questions - materials/tools advice and tips sought

[markharro]

I have tiled before but I need to up my skills as we are planning to use 610 x 1220mm 12mm thick marble tiles in our shower-room. The plan is to mount on Hardie backer board in portrait format so that 2 vertically will span floor to ceiling. I have my head around doing the initial boarding now and have got some useful info from the supplier for the tiles eg use white rapid setting tile adhesive. There is also a need to seal the surface before grouting etc.

The main gaps in my knowledge are as follows - 

 

1 I need a gap I think at floor level (our concrete slab) - 3mm or so? I assume I just mount the tiles on spacers to give the gap? Will the spacers come out after the adhesive has set? If not how are they hidden?

2 Should I fix the lower row of tiles first and wait until they are bombproof and then fix the upper tier above so that they get proper support from the lower level?

3 Is there any specific gap between tiles for grouting for these large format tiles?

4 My last tiling was years ago using the basic "X" plastic spacers. Now I see things are more sophisticated with these types - https://www.protilertools.co.uk/product/rubi-delta-levelling-system-kit--1mm--03956 - which appear to give you set grout gaps but also allow you to level the faces of the tiles. This particular example appears to be ok for the 12mm tiles we plan to use but what does the 1mm in brackets refer to as other kits from this brand offer 1.5mm/2mm etc! Is this measurement the width of the gap between tiles?

5 I have a notched trowel somewhere for the adhesive but should I be using a particular depth of notch? I guess this is linked to the depth of adhesive to use......how do I work that out?

6 Luckily we wont have to cut many tiles but I will a few. Could I use my track saw with a diamond blade and dry cut and get an acceptable result? 

7 If so the saw is designed for a 165mm diameter blade. Would I need this exact size or would a slightly smaller one work?

8 Will I cope with my 1200mm level or should I buy something longer?

9 We are planning on a shower niche and this would require an L or U shaped cut out of some tiles - this wouldn't be possible with the track saw so how would this be achieved?

10 Any other relevant tips?

 

Many thanks.

[markharro]

anyone offer any critique on this?

[Pocster]

I have the dogs bollocks Dewalt tile cutter and stand for sale .

It’s a proper man’s tool … 

[saveasteading]

2 hours ago, markharro said:

anyone offer any critique on this?

Mostly....you've got it all thought out.

Pro tilers may disagree with me, and don't need the artificial aids such as spacers, but:

 

1. Yes. Don't assume the floor/ tray is level.

With normal tiles ig is normal to fix  batten and to cut in the lower tiles later. Prob not a great idea with huge tiles, so getting it packed level is crucial. 

2. I would.

3. Don't know. 

4. I've only ever used the x spacers. But we discovered the challenge of curves on big tiles so the family bought a wedge clamping system and the result is superb. Slower but essential.

5. Notches...I use fine notches on a plane backing, but deep notches if its wobbly. That may not be the whole logic for heavy tiles..

6, 7.  Can't comment 

8. A level is a level. Any size as long as it is accurate. 1200 is ok but reverse it to be sure. 

But my family bought a laser and are glad they did.....but for lots of tiling and other stuff.

9. A diamond tile saw table is about £50.  Amateur grade but works fine.

 

10. Slow setting adhesive. Quick is for pros.

Remember nothing is usually level or vertical or square.

Do your tiles have repeat  patterns? Does it bother you if they line up etc?

[markharro]

41 minutes ago, Pocster said:

I have the dogs bollocks Dewalt tile cutter and stand for sale

I saw that but sadly you are at the other end of the country for me!

[Pocster]

12 minutes ago, markharro said:

I saw that but sadly you are at the other end of the country for me!

You not fancy a trip to sunny Bristol ?

[markharro]

Bit of a long trek for me from Edinburgh

[Mike]

19 hours ago, markharro said:

10 Any other relevant tips?

Choose a smaller tile?

Big is certainly popular, but those are going to weight around 20 to 23kg per tile. That's not easy to handle or lay for the inexperienced / under-muscled.

[Pocster]

2 hours ago, Mike said:

Choose a smaller tile?

Big is certainly popular, but those are going to weight around 20 to 23kg per tile. That's not easy to handle or lay for the inexperienced / under-muscled.

I was going to go large format floor tiles 1.2m x 1.2m - laying on my own would be impossible!

Smaller was also cheaper - saved my back and wallet ….

[markharro]

remember these are wall tiles! and a year of self building starting with 18mm ply on the roof and now 25kg buckets of render and hefty fermacell boards has all served to build up the muscles!

 

Back to the tile adhesive the Ardex tech support guy recommended rapid set I think for the reason that it would help to avoid the tiles sagging but I guess with spacers at the bottom and just doing the bottom row first that wouldnt be an issue?

[Pocster]

26 minutes ago, markharro said:

hefty fermacell boards has all served to build up the muscles!

Oooooooo nice ! Photos please ! 😗

[markharro]

Yes anyway moving on can anyone provide any further comments on my original points -

 

1 Spacers for the first row of tiles.  Is it realistic to think that I can just pull these out after the adhesive has set? If not how are they hidden?

 

3 Is there any specific gap between tiles for grouting for these large format tiles?

4 can anyone comment on these es - https://www.protilertools.co.uk/product/rubi-delta-levelling-system-kit--1mm--03956 - in particular what does the 1mm in brackets refer to as other kits from this brand offer 1.5mm/2mm etc! Is this measurement the width of the gap between tiles?

5 I have a notched trowel somewhere for the adhesive but should I be using a particular depth of notch? I guess this is linked to the depth of adhesive to use......how do I work that out?

6 Luckily we wont have to cut many tiles but I will a few. Could I use my track saw with a diamond blade and dry cut and get an acceptable result? 

7 If so the saw is designed for a 165mm diameter blade. Would I need this exact size or would a slightly smaller one work?

 

9 We are planning on a shower niche and this would require an L or U shaped cut out of some tiles - this wouldn't be possible with the track saw so how would this be achieved?

10 Any other relevant tips?

[Mike]

1. If you use hard plastic wedges, it should be possible to work them out

3. A minimum of 3mm on normal backgrounds, according to BS 5385-1

5. Refer to the adhesive manufacturer's recommendations

6. Personally I'd only ever use a wet saw

10. Draw it out on the walls before starting, ideally with the help of a laser, to get everything arranged as you want it and to make sure that all the cuts are sensible - for example to avoid thin slivers of tile.

 

 

[markharro]

Thanks @Mike thats helpful. 

 

2 Should I fix the lower row of tiles first and wait until they are bombproof and then fix the upper tier above so that they get proper support from the lower level? Thinking more about this will this work because if I do it this way how do I use levelling spacers between the bottom and top rows to ensure that the top row ends up with the face level with the bottom? Is it maybe better to use this Ardex fibre reinforced adhesive - https://ardex.co.uk/products/tile-adhesives/microtec-cement-based-fibre-reinforced-tile-adhesives/ and fit bottom and top rows at the same time?

 

4 My last tiling was years ago using the basic "X" plastic spacers. Now I see things are more sophisticated with these types - https://www.protilertools.co.uk/product/rubi-delta-levelling-system-kit--1mm--03956 - which appear to give you set grout gaps but also allow you to level the faces of the tiles. This particular example appears to be ok for the 12mm tiles we plan to use but what does the 1mm in brackets refer to as other kits from this brand offer 1.5mm/2mm etc! Is this measurement the width of the gap between tiles? Can anyone comment on this?

 

6 Luckily we wont have to cut many tiles but I will a few. Could I use my track saw with a diamond blade and dry cut and get an acceptable result? Noted on the wet saw advice but how do you do right angled cuts eg for a niche? My point 9 below

 

9 We are planning on a shower niche and this would require an L or U shaped cut out of some tiles - this wouldn't be possible with the track saw so how would this be achieved?