Best way to remove just a double row of slates (vertical row)?

[Oxbow16]

Hi folks

 

Following my recent threads, I've started work today and am removing slates at a wall abutment to put in lead soakers and flashing.

 

Am I missing something obvious or is my only option to use a slate ripper and then use tingles (or hooks) when I put them back on?

 

I had planned to remove two or three vertical rows of slates, and - stupidly perhaps - thought that by starting at the top I could access all nails to remove them without a ripper, and when putting the slates back on re-nail them to the battens. But now I'm up there it seems in order to that I would have to remove the slates in an ever increasing triangle to access all the nails and battens.

 

Am I overlooking something? Or is a ripper (to take off) and tingles/hooks (to put back on) the only option to avoid removing a tonne of slates?

 

Many thanks

 

PS - from what I've read I'd favour using hooks rather than tingles.

Edited September 5, 2023 by Oxbow16

[joe90]

No you are right, removing slates/hanging tiles is a nightmare, a ripper is the tool of choice. My builder used hooks when my build was slated and they are far better IMO, you just need to make sure they don’t rattle in the wind by hanging them correctly.

[twice round the block]

A ripper only works on very old nails where the slates have already started slipping.

If the nails holding them are half decent galvanised ones all you'll end up doing with a ripper is breaking slates and bending the nails. 

[Oxbow16]

29 minutes ago, twice round the block said:

If the nails holding them are half decent galvanised ones

 

Damn, I think this hits the nail on the head   I'd guess the roof was redone maybe 20-25 years ago.  And the few nails I have seen so far look to be galvanised.  

 

So if a pro was doing this, how would they approach it?  Remove as many slates as needed in the ever increasing triangle to reveal all nail heads?  When we had people come and look at the job in the past, they said they would just strip a couple of vertical rows.  Although to be fair what people say and what people do doesn't always match!!  

 

I will try the ripper.  But if that doesn't work - as you suggest it might not - has anyone got any other suggestions?

Edited September 5, 2023 by Oxbow16

[makie]

7 hours ago, twice round the block said:

A ripper only works on very old nails where the slates have already started slipping.

If the nails holding them are half decent galvanised ones all you'll end up doing with a ripper is breaking slates and bending the nails. 

 

Need a good quality ripper if that's the case. My one is fine at taking out brand new coppers.

[Oxbow16]

21 hours ago, joe90 said:

My builder used hooks when my build was slated and they are far better IMO

 

Actually, I just read that from a thread a few years back, but the link to the hooks no longer worked.  Can you remember what they were?  

 

 

12 hours ago, makie said:

Need a good quality ripper if that's the case. My one is fine at taking out brand new coppers.

 

I've got an old school one (Tyzack) coming today but will get another if that's no good.  What one do you have?  Copper nails are quite soft apparently and being easy to remove is one of their additional benefits from what I've read...  Mine are galvanised, so we'll see later today how they compare I guess!  

 

I've got some more questions if you don't mind please....

 

- Where I can only access one nail hole in a slate, could I add a second nail at the head of the slate so that it ends up being centre *and* head nailed but on one side only? To stop slate rotating?

 

- Come to think of it, if I centre nail slates at the abutment, the nail will go through the lead soaker beneath. Is this normal/acceptable? In one video I watched, the diagram showed the slates at the abutment being head nailed only. Not sure if that was just the graphic, or whether it is standard to JUST head nail these to avoid making holes in the lead?

 

- In either of the above scenarios, should I also add a hook/tingle as well for belts and braces? If centre and head nail is acceptable, would that be enough without a hook/tingle?

 

I should add that the roof is not all that visible. And it is quite sheltered and well protected from the worse of the weather.

 

Many thanks

[joe90]

Multiple holes/nails in slates is fine, I always preferred two nail fixing to stop rotating etc. as long as holes in the soakers are not at the bottom that’s fine.

[Oxbow16]

I've got the slates off and my battens are only 35mm wide, so I don't think my head nailing idea is a very good one.  

 

I'm going to use tingles where the roof cannot be seen from below.  Is it usual to use code 3 or 4 for lead tingles?

 

Cheers

[joe90]

I am not an expert but I would use code 4 (it’s thicker). Why not use slate hooks?

Edited September 6, 2023 by joe90

[makie]

9 hours ago, Oxbow16 said:

I've got an old school one (Tyzack) coming today but will get another if that's no good.  What one do you have?  Copper nails are quite soft apparently and being easy to remove is one of their additional benefits from what I've read...  Mine are galvanised, so we'll see later today how they compare I guess!  

 

 

I've got a carters one, roughneck ones are also decent.

 

For slate hooks https://www.burtonroofing.co.uk/black-coated-80mm-spiked-slate-hook-316g.html

You can get them in different sizes too.