Replacing storage heaters with ASHP/A2A

[Crofter]

4 hours ago, RichardL said:

Thoughts: (not necessarily solutions)

- Do you need one in the kitchen?
- If Bed2 can point towards the door it may heat/cool the hall when the door is open.
- If Kitchen can point towards the door it may heat/cool the hall when the door is open - however - see above - if the kitchen doesn't need one & the lounge door is open that may heat the hall too?
 

Thanks for the ideas. I'm sure there's many ways of doing this.

In practice we tend to keep the kitchen and living room doors open most of the time, but the bedroom doors closed- unless we're using the stove and trying to spread the heat through the whole house. Bed 2 is a spare room so usually left unheated.

[DanDee]

1 hour ago, Crofter said:

Thanks for the ideas. I'm sure there's many ways of doing this.

In practice we tend to keep the kitchen and living room doors open most of the time, but the bedroom doors closed- unless we're using the stove and trying to spread the heat through the whole house. Bed 2 is a spare room so usually left unheated.

Is there any attic space on top of the ceiling? You should think of some full or partial ventilation system, either whole house ERV/HRV or DIY tubbing to/from whatever room you can to another room or central location. 

[HughF]

I would 100% go for A2A - easy, instant on/off heat that costs naff all to run, and naff all to install.

 

Perfect for a holiday let.

[Nickfromwales]

2 minutes ago, HughF said:

I would 100% go for A2A - easy, instant on/off heat that costs naff all to run, and naff all to install.

 

Perfect for a holiday let.

Amen!!

Instant cool then too, so twice the bang for the same buck.  😎

Would make it more attractive to prospective tenants then too.

[Nickfromwales]

Bingo Bango

 

Don't be tempted to buy cheap, you need reliability and longevity !!!

[HughF]

4 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Amen!!

Instant cool then too, so twice the bang for the same buck.  😎

Would make it more attractive to prospective tenants then too.

Yep, having just installed one last night, I can't believe how these things aren't more popular - amazing products. Instant heat, instant cool, easy to install.

[Nickfromwales]

Just now, HughF said:

Yep, having just installed one last night, I can't believe how these things aren't more popular - amazing products. Instant heat, instant cool, easy to install.

I am on borrowed time with my boys free-standing, vented thru-wall unit, so am thinking 2 outdoor units and 6 internal. When (bloody ever) I get to put my now dusty solar panels on, the gas bill can be offset by microgeneration. Summer cooling will be blissful.

I am jealous btw.

[SteamyTea]

1 hour ago, Nickfromwales said:

Bingo Bango

Is that a recommended supplier, or someone to avoid?

[Nickfromwales]

1 hour ago, SteamyTea said:

Is that a recommended supplier, or someone to avoid?

It’s welsh for “here you go”. Works just fine in England too. 
Yet to try it in Scotland, and I was too pissed to remember what happened in Dublin.

I do remember how bloody expensive it was out there though, so doubt I heard it from any barmaids as they never gave change, regardless of how many notes you handed them.

 

[Crofter]

On 20/06/2023 at 19:11, DanDee said:

Is there any attic space on top of the ceiling? You should think of some full or partial ventilation system, either whole house ERV/HRV or DIY tubbing to/from whatever room you can to another room or central location. 

Yes the attic space is up for grabs.

[Crofter]

17 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

Bingo Bango

 

Don't be tempted to buy cheap, you need reliability and longevity !!!

Would you go for an outlet each in the kitchen, living room, and two main bedrooms?

 

I was all set to look in to a wet system but this A2A is looking so much cheaper and easier. And on paper at least as high a COP.

[Nickfromwales]

On 21/06/2023 at 00:11, DanDee said:

either whole house ERV/HRV

 

15 hours ago, Crofter said:

Yes the attic space is up for grabs.

Only effective if the property is "airtight" to a min of 1.0 ACH (or under).

[Crofter]

11 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

 

Only effective if the property is "airtight" to a min of 1.0 ACH (or under).

I'm a long way from that. 1970s bungalow, built to Department of Agriculture design, back in the days before airtightness was a thing.

 

Does that have any impact on my choice of heating system?? Obviously I'm going to work on gradually improving the insulation and airtightness but I'm not kidding myself that I'll ever get to a high level.

[Nickfromwales]

13 minutes ago, Crofter said:

I'm a long way from that. 1970s bungalow, built to Department of Agriculture design, back in the days before airtightness was a thing.

 

Does that have any impact on my choice of heating system?? Obviously I'm going to work on gradually improving the insulation and airtightness but I'm not kidding myself that I'll ever get to a high level.

Just do a basic heat loss calc to get a ballpark number for kWh requirements per room. Rad sizing per room is free on a lot of supplier websites which will give you and idea of heat required, but obvs a bit hit-and-miss in terms of absolute accuracy.

"It is what it is", but if the natural rates of infiltration are above the trickle rate of MVHR then you're just pumping in cold air 24/7/365.