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thermally broken or not - lintels


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I'm just ordering my lintels, catnic, but which is better 




or these




Our cavity is full filled 150 block / block.

What I'm wondering with the 2nd one is about the strength and the 'water'


I can see on the first one that any moisture will hit the lintel shell and exit stage right

But, with the 2nd one where will it go and does it then require DPM above.

I can see how the 2nd one will be more thermally efficient.






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I went thermally broken because, if I recall correctly, it makes as big a difference as upgrading from double to triple glazing but significantly less extra cost. I went with Keystone which need cavity trays either way. I believe some Catnic lintels don't need cavity trays. Also, I heard windows under eaves often don't get fitted with cavity trays. I have cavity trays all round.


It's also worth remembering how much harder the inner leaf part works than the outer. The outer leaf may only be carrying a small triangle of bricks whereas the inner leaf could have to support floor loads or roof loads.

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  • 1 year later...

Following on from my questions above, I've read on other posts that you shouldn't use lintels over 2mtrs, but should use steels.

Is this 2mtr in total or 2mtr including the overhang.

We have 2 doorways, one is 1860 gap and one 1750, both of these will be over 2 m with the overhang.


But, is that okay?


One is our front door and the surround, door 1.2m and side panels of 330 and one 'gap' of 1750 to have a barn sliding door at a later stage.


Will these be okay with lintels.




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1 hour ago, Dave Jones said:

what did your SAP specify ?


found keystone to be a fair bit cheaper than catnic

This is a barn conversion and we don't have an SAP report.

The SE drawings don't specify in detail either, just mention Catnic ones, although they also mention other suppliers who are the most expensive you can find.


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